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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i jacked up my car the other day to do my tire rotation. when i was doing that, i notice that my front driver side axle that connect the axis and the wheel has one part that is broken. it's sort of the plastic thing, black and it's ripped off. the plastic thing sort of wrap of the joint between the axle and the wheel.

can you please tell me what is the name of it? is this a common problem for our legend (my car is 92 Legend LS 4 door) ? is it a necessary / a 'must' fix for our car (I m kind of broke now and if it can wait for couple months)? if so, how much is the part cost usually (OEM and aftermarket, also which do you recommend) and how long is the labor to fix it ?

thanks a lot.
 

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Thats your axle boot - it contains axle grease. Since you did not mention the grease - I assume its been ripped for some time and the grease is gone.

Replace the part (apppox $20 + labor) as soon as you possibly can - like now!!!

If too much dirt gets up in there - it will ruin your axle & you will have to replace it. $$$$


Yes, this is a common problem - I check mine each time I change my oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Double Legend said:
Thats your axle boot - it contains axle grease. Since you did not mention the grease - I assume its been ripped for some time and the grease is gone.

Replace the part (apppox $20 + labor) as soon as you possibly can - like now!!!

If too much dirt gets up in there - it will ruin your axle & you will have to replace it. $$$$

Yes, this is a common problem - I check mine each time I change my oil.
i just called Acura of Augusta and they call it Drive Shaft Set / CV joint. is it the part that i am talking about ? i am confuse cause the cost from Augusta is $265, way a lot more than what you said ($20)

is the $20 part OEM or not ? if not, is it OK to use the aftermarket part ? do you have any idea how many labor hours to fix this ?

thanks
 

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gAmEs0n said:


i just called Acura of Augusta and they call it Drive Shaft Set / CV joint. is it the part that i am talking about ? i am confuse cost the cost from Augusta is $265, way a lot more than what you said ($20)

is the $20 part OEM or not ? also do you have any idea how many labor hours to fix this ?

thanks
you can get refurbished axles for $50.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
RICDOGG said:


you can get refurbished axles for $50.
is it necessary? this is just the black plastic thing that wrap up the joint between the axis and the wheel. i thought it's going to be cheap, but it costs way too much if i ordered from dealer.

do i have to change the whole axles?

PS: btw, does anyone know how did it get ripped off? because of the rough drive ? age? thanks
 

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gAmEs0n said:


is it necessary? this is just the black plastic thing that wrap up the joint between the axis and the wheel. i thought it's going to be cheap, but it costs way too much if i ordered from dealer.

do i have to change the whole axles?

PS: btw, does anyone know how did it get ripped off? because of the rough drive ? age? thanks
That price A of A quoted you is for the drive shaft and CV boots, all you need is the out CV boot kit, which should be no more than $30 from Acura.
 

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Yes. The black plastic CV Boot Cover is necessary to keep dirt and dust away from the joints. Imagine, two metal balls rubbing against each other. Properly lubricated (in this case with grease), the two metals are less likely to burn or wear down. It's just like asking, is Oil necessary to run in your car to survive? Yes. Without the CV Boot Cover, you'll be liable for much more expensive damages later.

I have images of the front drive axle. There are 2 CV Boot Covers. One is known as the Inner Boot Cover and the other is known as the Outer Boot Cover. I suppose the only way to distinguish for me which one is inner and which one is outer is this:

A) Closer to the rim = Inner Boot Cover.
B) Has a Metal Shaft protruding from both sides = Outer Boot Cover.
C) More toward the center between the two wheels = Outer Boot.

I don't know if Acura sells the parts separately, but you could quote them these part numbers:

A) (MSRP $15.83) 44333-SP0-014 = Outer Boot
- Specify Right or Left
B) (MSRP $15.83) 44315-SP0-003 = Inner Boot
- Specify Right or Left
C) (MSRP $309.50) 44010-SP0-953 = Right Shaft Assembly
- This includes the Shaft & the Outer Boot
D) (MSRP $309.50)44011-SP0-953 = Left Shaft Assembly
- This includes the Shaft & the Outer Boot

If they only sell the entire set, which includes the Shaft Assembly, Outer and Inner Boot, the MSRP is $341.16.

gAmEs0n said:
is it necessary? this is just the black plastic thing that wrap up the joint between the axis and the wheel. i thought it's going to be cheap, but it costs way too much if i ordered from dealer.
...
do i have to change the whole axles?
...
PS: btw, does anyone know how did it get ripped off? because of the rough drive ? age? thanks
 

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Sounds like...

an outer CV boot. Double Legend is exactly right---repair ASAP!!!
Run, don't walk to your nearest friendly independent Acura tech and get him to inspect the CV joint. If you're lucky, all of the grease has not leaked out and you can just replace the boot itself. If the grease is gone, it's new axle time. FYI, you CAN get $50 refurbished axles but they aren't worth a ****. I have refurbs on my '92 L but they were about $150 whereas the OEM axles are about $275-300. Good luck---
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
hi

how do i know whether it's necessary to change the whole axle (drive shaft) or JUST the boot since I don't know when the boot start to ripped off? I have the car for about 2 years now and this is the first time i notice this.

thanks
 

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gAmEs0n said:
hi

how do i know whether it's necessary to change the whole axle (drive shaft) or JUST the boot?

thanks
Like stevieray said, RUN don't walk to your nearest dealer or mechanic to have it checked out as soon as you can. They'll be able to tell you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
WhiteLegend said:


Like stevieray said, RUN don't walk to your nearest dealer or mechanic to have it checked out as soon as you can. They'll be able to tell you.
well, i will do this tomorrow but i would like to know how to figure it out whether it's necessary to change the whole axle or JUST the CV boot before i talk to my mechanics. the price difference is quite far, $ 30 and $ 265, plus labor.

I don't want to get ripped off by mechanics who just want money from customers, u know what i m saying. there are some honest mechanics and there are mechanics who just want money from customers by replacing unnecessary parts. u know, the more they replace parts, the more money they make. well, i would like to know as much as i can before i go to the mechanics.

thanks.
 

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The labor is as follows for each part:

1. R&R Outer, Inner Boot, or Shaft Assembly Axle (Right) = 1.4 hrs
2. R&R Outer, Inner Boot, or Shaft Assembly Axle (Left) = 1.6 hrs

Add 0.9 hours for the Right Side, if it includes the Inner Joint
Add 1.1 hours for the Left Side, if it includes the Inner Joint.

My suggestion is to do just the boot. The mechanic (a smart non-ripping one) would suggest to do just the boot. If when he repacks the joint, he notices damage, he'll let you know otherwise. If also you haven't noticed any unusual noises or roughness while turning or driving, then the boot should suffice too.

gAmEs0n said:
well, i will do this tomorrow but i would like to know how to figure it out whether it's necessary to change the whole axle or JUST the CV boot before i talk to my mechanics. the price difference is quite far, $ 30 and $ 265, plus labor.

I don't want to get ripped off by mechanics who just want money from customers, u know what i m saying. there are some honest mechanics and there are mechanics who just want money from customers by replacing unnecessary parts. u know, the more they replace parts, the more money they make. well, i would like to know as much as i can before i go to the mechanics.

thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
asianlegend said:
The labor is as follows for each part:

1. R&R Outer, Inner Boot, or Shaft Assembly Axle (Right) = 1.4 hrs
2. R&R Outer, Inner Boot, or Shaft Assembly Axle (Left) = 1.6 hrs

Add 0.9 hours for the Right Side, if it includes the Inner Joint
Add 1.1 hours for the Left Side, if it includes the Inner Joint.

My suggestion is to do just the boot. The mechanic (a smart non-ripping one) would suggest to do just the boot. If when he repacks the joint, he notices damage, he'll let you know otherwise. If also you haven't noticed any unusual noises or roughness while turning or driving, then the boot should suffice too.

thanks for the advise. i was surprised when the boot is ripped off cause i never noticed any unusual noises or roughness while driving or turning. the car drives normal.

PS: btw, are there any difference between CV boot and ball joint boot? cause i went to the same mechanics and from the service record by 01/02/01, it stated that the ball joint boot cracked and it was replace. just wanna make sure before i make another visit to my mechanics tomorrow and hand over my money. thanks.
 

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It's very simple for that piece of rubber to rip. It is tied by a metal ring (similar in looks to the metal rings used at the end of rubber hoses in engine bay), so any hard tug on that relatively hard (I don't think it's a soft rubber) can easily tear it. It could be something you ran over that moved toward the rubber boot and caused it to rip.

Just get it fixed and you should be ok.
gAmEs0n said:
thanks for the advise. i was surprised when he told me that the boot is ripped off cause i never noticed any unusual noises or roughness while driving or turning. the car drives normal.
 

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Can you re-grease?

Can you re-grease a non ripped boot?

I notice grease (very dirty) on the driver side front wheel behind the brake cooling plate. It could be very old (lots of dirt stuck to it) but is there a way to make sure there is grease in my cv boots?

-Ben
 

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Re: Can you re-grease?

Ben Hedrington said:
Can you re-grease a non ripped boot?

I notice grease (very dirty) on the driver side front wheel behind the brake cooling plate. It could be very old (lots of dirt stuck to it) but is there a way to make sure there is grease in my cv boots?

-Ben
To my knowlege the grease can't escape unless you have a rip.
3 possible scenarios:
1- Rip is extremely tiny. 2- Rip is somewhere you can't see it from the angle you are looking - could be in one of the folds of the boot. 3- If you are not the original owner - boot could have been replaced by previous owner - but never cleaned off grease after repair. (The grease is thick and would just stay there)

On my world famous 300,070 mile Legend -purchased new- (RIP) - I had ripped boots changed at least 4 x's. Caught it on time - each time - Did not need remanned axle until 285K. - Boots need to be checked at each oil change. That is unless you got money to blow!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Re: Re: Can you re-grease?

Double Legend said:


To my knowlege the grease can't escape unless you have a rip.
3 possible scenarios:
1- Rip is extremely tiny. 2- Rip is somewhere you can't see it from the angle you are looking - could be in one of the folds of the boot. 3- If you are not the original owner - boot could have been replaced by previous owner - but never cleaned off grease after repair. (The grease is thick and would just stay there)

On my world famous 300,070 mile Legend -purchased new- (RIP) - I had ripped boots changed at least 4 x's. Caught it on time - each time - Did not need remanned axle until 285K. - Boots need to be checked at each oil change. That is unless you got money to blow!!!!
just wondering, how do you check it when you do the oil change? also, can you give a checklist on how to check things while doing oil change, etc? thanks
 

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Re: Can you re-grease?

Ben Hedrington said:
Can you re-grease a non ripped boot?

I notice grease (very dirty) on the driver side front wheel behind the brake cooling plate. It could be very old (lots of dirt stuck to it) but is there a way to make sure there is grease in my cv boots?

-Ben
No worries about that. It's perfectly ABNORMAL for a car to have no amount of dirt and/or grime buildup around the boot and the axle itself, unless it were a brand new car or a brand-new part.

As long as you don't notice any grease leaking out and onto other parts of the car (along the bottom parts of the body) or notice any visible tears.

The dirt and grime kind of acts like a protectant for any future tears, so unless the rubber itself is wearing or a big object hit it, I wouldn't worry about it.

Besides at every major service they should inspect the suspension and various components anyhow.
 

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Dirt & grime are normal on the brake shield but not thick grease. Ben has to determine which of those he has. I got the impression that it is grease because: 1- he said that it was only on one brake shield - dirt & grime would distribute itself evenly, 2- he also said he saw dirt in it - I'm assuming he knows what axle grease looks like.
Loose axle grease on a brake shield is far from normal. Like I said before - the grease could be from an old repair but to be on the safe side it should be checked out. Between my 3 Legends I've seen this too many times. (I've had cases where I could not see the hole - but the evidence (grease) was there - when the car was then placed on a lift -- bingo -- a hole.)

Ben - in regards to oil change items- I just take that opportunity to visably inspect under the car for any leaks (grease or any type of fluid spots). Since I do the changes myself I can't see much but I can see the boots.

Just another piece of advise - each time my car is on a lift (for whatever reason) - I always walk under the car and check it out - not looking for anything in particular but I go front to back looking for anything that does not look right.
 

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Grease

It is grease with a lot of dirt embedded in it. the boots are very clean. I will check under and around them. I think they were replaced before but I have no records to say that. I am starting to hear a creak in the stearing on that side of the car but I believe my suspension parts (shock is leaking oil) are to blame for that.

Thanks Guys,
-Ben
 
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