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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
BlackLeg is my 88 L coupe AT
It has only 312 000Km
I remade the entire body and it's a beauty
i neglected her a bit on the tranny this year
Rescently it was slipping on the 4rth and reverse
I did a 4X flush with an anti slip treatment
Last week the reverse was slipping a bit and i forced it a little and it got in
gear,,, no more slipping
But now when cold the shifting is perfect on all gears until it's hot
When hot the tranny downshifts in 2nd gear and stay there
So i'm stuck with 1st and 2nd...reverse is ok
the solenoids are clean and act perfectly when cold
Is it possible that a solenoid is disabled when hot?
Acura dealer tells me that the tranny is gone but he said the same thing to the guy that sold me the car three years ago
Do you have an idea?????
I can't get rid of her
she is my baby and i'm so proud of her
PLEASE HELP US
 

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Your tranny is toast, I had a 88 legend with the smae symptoms. Went through 2 trannies b/c I used to beat the hell out of my car in highschool.
 

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The main reason why these transmissions let go is because the ATF is not changed often enough. If you look at your drain plug you will see metal filings on it, those are your gears. The factory maintainence schedule is BS. I change my Honda fluid every oil change, I don't care how expensive it is. I will not go through changing another transmission.
 

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Make sure all the grounds are clean, here is a service bulletin from Acura:



ImageECHNICAL BULLETIN # 132

DATE: Sep. 1992


TRANSMISSIONS: All Electronically Shifted Units

SUBJECT: Intermittent Electrical Problems


APPLICATION: All Electronically Shifted Units

Intermittent Electrical Problems


Wrong gear starts, no upshift, no downshift, falling out of 4th gear, etc may be caused by
poor grounds. This applies to any electronically shifted unit, import or domestic.


Image


To test for a poor ground, connect the black lead of your digital voltmeter directly to the

negative battery post and probe the suspect ground wire with the positive lead. A good
ground will read 0.1 volts or less. More than 0.1 volts is a poor ground. Keep in mind the
circuit must be operating to accurately check the ground.


Image


Image



Using a service manual for the vehicle you are working on, locate the transmission
computer ground circuit. In the example shown, B and D are the grounds. Now with the
vehicle running in gear, backprobe B and D with the positive lead. Make sure the negative

lead is hooked directly to the NEGATIVE BATTERY POST. The voltmeter must read 0.1 or
less.



If that doesn't work then try a different tranny fluid or try an additive like Lubegard and see if that helps. Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks for hope

thanks jmm67
it's a good idea and you give me enough hope to give it a big try even if it's winter
i will check for grounds and TB
iwil check TA sensor
If someone did it once and saved his car i will do it too
I'll keep you informed
Thanks again
 

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Also you should test the shift solenoids and the connections to make sure they are not the problem.

Disconnect the connector to the shift solenoids (Figures 2A THROUGH
2D).

Check the resistance of each shift solenoid terminal to ground (Figure 3). The resistance
should be 12-30 ohms at 70 °F. Replace as necessary.

[Step 3]

Image

Image

Attach a 0-100 psi pressure gauge to shift solenoid A and B for the modulator pressure
ports (Figure 2A through 2D). If only one gauge is available, attaching it to one part at a
time will work fine. Place shift lever in park and start the engine. Check the pressure on
both parts. It should be 70-95 psi. If it is over 95 psi the modulator valve is stuck. See
Figures 4A through 4D.

[Step 4]

With the engine running connect one end of a jumper lead to the positive terminal of the
battery and the other end to BOTH solenoid terminals in the connector. The pressure
should drop quickly to under 6 psi. If the pressure is above 6 psi or drops slowly, replace
the shift solenoids.

If you need the full bulletin with images then pm me with your email and I will send it to you, good luck.
 

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One more thing, when the car is warm and the shifting starts to screw up then check the tcu for codes:

Legend '88-'90

The computer is under the right front seat, unless the engine controller is there. Then
it'll be under the left front seat. Since that's not a lot of help, here's how to really tell.
The transaxle computer is under a front seat, and its LED aims to the rear. The
transaxle controller has only one LED. The engine controller has two, a red and a
green one. You want the box with only one LED.


CODE LIST

1. Lock-up solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted.
2. Lock-up solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted.
3. Throttle Position Sensor circuit open or shorted.
4. Vehicle Speed Sensor open or shorted - No signal from speedometer.
5. Shift Lever Position Switch circuit shorted.
6. Shift Lever Position Switch circuit open.
7. Shift Solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted.
8. Shift Solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted.
9. Counter shaft or transmission speed pulse generator open or shorted.
10. Coolant Temperature Sensor open or shorted.
11. Engine RPM ( Ignition coil signal) open or shorted.
13. Main shaft speed pulse generator open or shorted.
14. Linear (line pressure control) solenoid open or shorted.
15. Kickdown switch circuit shorted.
 

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It's too bad you don't live near me. I am rebuilding my auto, I found a dealer that has borg warner clutches, it should handle the load. As for your trans, it could be toast and maybe not, but with that kind of age and distance it will be gone soon. If you have the tranny rebuilt be shure to ask for all the old parts and inspect them your self.
Good luck, I was taking apart this trans from my coupe I just bought and I found a loose bolt and wire from a wire wheel in the trans, some butcher went thru it before I did, good work is hard to find!
 
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