Acura Legend Forum banner
1 - 20 of 34 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
180 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1990 legend, and the idle's been jumping around. I just bought some injector cleaning fluid, and will use it in a few days, because the tank is still full. Is there any other things i should do the the car to help the idle?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
293 Posts
Go ahead with your fuel additive, but on another tank of gas may use BG44k which is similar but much stronger. Available only at certain auto dealers and is about $18 for an eleven ounce can. Suppose to be the best. Also, may try cleaning your throttle body - never done it myself but understand that may help. Or, skip all the above and take your car to an auto repair place that does carbon cleaning. Make sure what they do it includes cleaning the intake on the throttle body. BG has a system that is supposed to be good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,036 Posts
lilboi tony said:
I have a 1990 legend, and the idle's been jumping around. I just bought some injector cleaning fluid, and will use it in a few days, because the tank is still full. Is there any other things i should do the the car to help the idle?
when was the last time the cap + rotor were replaced?

I know , this sounds dumb, but it happened to me.
It was because of the cap + rotor.

-Jose
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,036 Posts
hehe

lilboi tony said:
wow, i dont think i ever touched that.
the cost of it is so inexpensive, that it might just be worth your time to just get a new cap + rotor, even if it's that or not.

at least, it'll be out of your way when troubleshooting other stuff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,657 Posts
On the 90 Coupe,

The ECU is located on the passenger side, where your feet rest. (Footwell) On that slanted portion, mine had velcro on the top portion of the carpet... I simply pulled it back, to expost a little plexiglass window with 2 LEDs inside, next to the LEDs the word "AT" (Automatic) written on it. Yellow will display incorrect idle, red will flash troubleshooting codes.

Now there's another black box with one LED and a plexiglass window underneath the actual seat, I have no clue what this is.. it also has a pink connector that sticks out of it and says "ALB ONLY"


Hope that helps, check for any flashing codes...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,036 Posts
ga

lilboi tony said:
im planing on replacing most things from my engine, so where can i find the cap and rotor, and how much do you think it'll cost for a new one?.
cap and rotor are rather inexpensive.

like 15 bucks for both parts.

-jose
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
270 Posts
I suggest getting a manual... Haynes costs ~$12.00, Helm ~$58.00... It'll tell you most things you want to know and is very important for the procedures on many things...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
270 Posts
The ignition rotor is the plastic and metal piece inside the distributor cap... It spins around, making contact with the contact for each of the spark plug wires, and sends electricity to the spark plug....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,657 Posts
Orange? I thought it was yellow, when it's on, the idle is off I believe.

I think this is from Alexei's site:


"Idle speed should be within 50 rpm of 720 with the engine warm, no accessories operating (including the radiator fan), and the steering wheel in the straight-ahead position. Take a look at the ECU, which you'll find under the passenger's seat. If the yellow LED is blinking, twist the idle screw (just above the throttle plate) 1/4 turn clockwise. If it glows steadily, go 1/4 turn counterclockwise. After about 30 seconds, the LED should wink out, which lets you know the speed is within the range the computer can control. If not, turn the screw another 90 deg. in the same direction, which should douse the light. "

....but I can't be too sure, I had it saved in a text file.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
138 Posts
Poor idle, infrequent sputtering at start

On the heels of Tony's idle problem, I have a similar situation.

The car idles ok 90% of the time, but sometimes, its a little rough. What I notice more is after the car is warm, if I shut the engine off, let the car sit for a bit, then restart, when I first pull off, sometimes the car hesitates and sputters a bit. The few times when it happens, it only occurs at the initial acceleartion, then everything is okay.

Also, I have noticed that my gas mileage seems very poor and when opening the hood, I smell gas fumes. I have to assume there is a fuel leak somewhere but have no idea how to find and/or fix it.

As always, car runs great and strong but based on the things described above, sometimes feels like I'm either not getting a strong fuel flow or maybe the sparks plus are bad?

Any advice?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
270 Posts
Sounds like you are flooding and/or poor ignition... When was your last tune-up ?? How are the ignition wires ?? Get the fuel pressure tested... Shouldn't cost much. You could probably rent a tester and do it yourself... I bought one for $53 CDN just the other day... Haven't used it yet though... LOL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
138 Posts
Think so? Would flooding/poor ignition cause the gas fumes around the engine?

How do you determine if the car is flooding? I just came back from lunch and it did the same thing. Started it up after sitting for about an hour, gave it gas, engine barely revved, then it kicked in, was fine from there.

I just purchased the car and the spark plug wires look brand new. Where would I find the ignition wires? (Haynes manual is on the way :) If they need to be replaced, is it a simple repair? If not, is it expensive for parts and labor?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
270 Posts
Sorry, by ignition wires, I mean spark plug wires...

Since you just bought the car, I would DEFINATELY do a tune-up... Plugs, Dist. cap & Rotor, fuel filter, air filter (if dirty)... It doesn't hurt to change the wires at this time (don't know how old they are) if you are up for it... Not always necessary and can be checked with an Ohm meter for resistance... I like using performance wires myself, so I replaced them the day I bought my car (along with a tune-up and oil change). I like to know when the last time my car was serviced and what was used, so what better way than to do it myself the day I get a car ??

If you went out there and it was doing it from cold (I ASSumed it was when you were warm), I would say that you have a problem with the idle air control... Not getting enough air and the engine is getting too much gas.... Take the intake off at the throttle body and spray carb/throttle body cleaner in there while the engine is running (follow directions on can)... This will help clean the whole intake system after the throttle body as well... Not a guaranteed fix, but doesn't hurt and only costs about $3.00... If you're still having problems, you will have to refer to your Haynes manual on how to check the IAC...

Have you checked for codes at the computer yet ??

Yes, if a car floods, you can usually smell gas... Or it could be leaking injectors that you smell....
 
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
Top