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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If your car has over 150,000 mi. and is no longer eligible for the Acura extended emissions warranty or if you just want to take a preventative measure to ensure that you won't have EGR problems calling for the removal of the intake manifold, you might try this suggestion.
Huge thanks to [Ballistic] whose fantastic DIY on removing the EGR assembly made my revelation possible.
After I removed the EGR assembly I noticed that the build up was oily and that a good blast of carb cleaner cleaned out the EGR pipe very nicely. I reasoned that this is what was clogging the EGR channels in the intake manifold. If carb cleaner could clear out the EGR pipe easily it might clean out the whole intake manifold.
I call this a POSSIBLE fix because I didn't fully test this. I used the only can of carb cleaner I had at the time and found that there was a SLIGHT but noticeable increase in flow but the MIL light still came on. I would have continued this procedure but I was already scheduled to have this problem fixed by the Acura dealership the next day, so I figured just go ahead and let them do the work. I can't guarantee this will work, but considering the alternative of removing the entire intake manifold and cleaning it (or paying to have someone do it) I think this is a gamble worth taking.

1. Move car outside. There will be exhaust fumes.
2. Remove EGR valve.
3. Set idle speed at about 1500 -2000 RPM. I did this by wedging a piece of cardboard in between the idle adjustment screw and the throttle arm
4. CAUTION: As the engine recovers it might backfire through the exhaust port. Keep your face away from the port or cover it with a rag. Spray carb cleaner down the intake port on the EGR manifold until engine almost dies out. Wait for engine to recover and repeat. I would recommend using at least one can, maybe more if the intake manifold is really clogged.
5. Don't be alarmed by all the fault codes you get on your OBD II reader. They're all related to the engine almost dying out. (codes 1201-1206, 1300, 1399, 0401(duh!)) Reset the computer and the codes go away.
6. Perform procedure about every oil change or 7500 miles. This is not exact, but an estimate on how to keep this problem under control.
 

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Egr's on rls can be cleaned without removing the intake. It's relatively easy to remove the rear plate from the intake manifold with it in the vehicle and using a drill bit to clean the port.
 

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If you remove and disassemble the intake manifold and realize how much gunk actually builds up in there, you will be a happier RL owner knowing that your intake is spotless again vs. the cheap fixes. But then again, its up to the owner.

Personally, I was happy to know that my intake was now clean again. :) especially after 230k miles of buildup and ready for another 230k miles of gunk...although I bet I'll need new rings before I need to clean out the EGR again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I just got my Helms manual and to clean the EGR it says to use carb cleaner! I had my doubts about the crud clogging the cat since this is the same crud that goes out the exhaust in the first place. I'm not into cheap fixes, but tearing apart the intake system to fix a problem that can be fixed with a can of carb cleaner seems like overkill to me. I got my car back and the dealership didn't remove the manifold and clean it. All they did was clean the EGR port and that fixed the problem.
I am curious about cleaning the EGR port with a drill bit. [PSA], can you give me a few more details about this procedure? How long and what size drill bit did you use? I I took off the EGR pipe and reached inside with my finger and couldn't feel anything. How deep inside the port does the clog form?
 

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The reason why deposits are created I believe is because the carbon in the exhaust mixes with the oily blow by from the crank case breather that goes back into the intake. when the oily air meets the exhaust gases, a sludge forms and sticks to the area closest to the exhaust gas entry.


 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
3G Legend, after looking at your pictures I am still a little disoriented. In the first, close up, picture is the clogged port the one at the 2:00 position? And in the second picture is the aft part of the manifold to the right? If this is the area that was clogged, I believe that it was unclogged in mine or else I just couldn't reach it with my finger. Where was PSA talking about using the drill bit?

Later
davamanra
 
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