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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a problem with my Left rear window not rolling down from the passenger switch and not doing anything with the driver switch. I have a 95 Legend L. I have checked everything you can possible check to see what was wrong with the window. The motor works great because i switched the motor to the right passenger and it works fine. While i was doing that, i put the right motor on the left window and still the same thing, the window would only roll up. After i tried that i switched the window switches from the right and left rear and i still have the same outcome. I then checked for voltage on each wire with a meter that i have. I checked the right side first just to see how the switch actually works. Then i compared the voltage from both left and right windows (without the motors attached). Everything from both sides was exactly the same. Power and no power when the switch was moved up and down. But when i connect the motor to the window switch on the left passenger, there is 12 volts on every wire comming from the passenger switch when i try to roll the window down. When i reconnected the right side window motor to the right side switch, the voltage polarities read the same as when i had no motor connected. I then took some pig tails connected the left window motor to the left window switch backwards and the window only rolls down now. I cant figure it out and if i take it to the dealer, they will charge me a fortune (just to look at it) so if anyone could help me figure this out, please post a response. Thanks...Nando
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
?

The window is getting in the way now. I had planned to get my windows tinted a long time ago and i cant get them done now. There is always something that gives you a problem, nothing runs smoothly. One thing i havent check for is broken wires in the door jam. Could that be possible. Or... is there a local ground for the motor. Or does the child safety switch have something to do with it. I dont know. :mad: Very Frustrating when you cant figure it out.:confused:
 

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Its most likely master switch. i just recently had the same problem but ... all my windows were stuck up! i got the problem fixed and it ran me about $275, best bet is to buy the product from some where else rather then the dealership, then install it yourself! good luck
 

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Livin_Legend95 I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY 95 COUPE THE SWITCH DOES NOTHING FROM THE DRIVRES SIDE AND ONLY GOES UP FROM THE PASSANGER SWITCH , DID YOU FIX YOURS YET CAUSE I CANT FIGURE IT OUT EITHER ?
 

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Hey I had a prob like that too all of my windows except my dirver side window would not operate the prob was the master window switch. When I got the car the on/off button was busted off(i guess from so much use)so what I did to move the other windows up and down was I stuck a piece of wire stripped at both sides in the on/off hole and touched the "on" contact with one side of the wire and the "off" contact with the other at the same time with both ends of the wire touching choose witch window to roll down/up. This works for me untill I get the cash to replace it
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok, im starting to feel alittle better now that someone else is trying to fix the same problem. I have tried everything except take the door off and look at the wires comming through the door jam. I was lucky to work with somebody that works with acuras and hondas and he gave me a brand new master switch. I swaped the switches with the one i have in the car now and i still get the same outcome. Still alittle confused and frustrated but i feel like im getting closer. If anyone figures out the problem, holla back at me fo-shizzle..........
 

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if you can roll up and down with the window switch but not with master control (or can only roll down with master), gotta replace master window control panel, about $300 new.
 

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Livin_Legend95 OK I JUST CHECKED MINE TODAY AND ITS A CUT WIRE SO DONT GO BUY ANY SWITCHS I DONT KNOW IF THE COLORS ARE THE SAME BUT MY PASANGER SWITCH HAS FIVE WIRES 2 GO TO THE MOTOR AND 3 ARE FOR POWER .ON THE MASTER SWITCH THOSE 3 WIRES ARE ALSO THERE YOU NEED TO CHECK FOR CONTINUITY FROM DRIVER SIDE TO TO PASENGER SIDE MY WIRE WAS THE BLUE AND YELLOW THAT WAS CUT I JUMPED IT AND KNOW IT WORKS FINE FROM BOTH SWITCHS,KNOW I JUST NEED TO FIND WHERE ITS CUT .YOUR GOING TO NEED A VOLT METER WITH LONG JUMPER WIRES TO TEST AND SOME ALIGATOR CLIPS WITH APOINT TO PINCH THE WIRES OR A FRIEND TO HOLD ONE SIDE FOR YOU .GOOD LUCK
 

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same problem

I am having the same problem with my 92legend
but my problem is slightly diff. i am having trouble getting the window to go up ...it goes down with no problem but does not go back up using either switch!!
I took the door panel off and i am getting power to the 2 wires going to the motor in either switch direction but when i try the up the motor does not even try to go up. i started calling around for new motors ....damn are they expensive......i talked to my mechanic and he says its common for the wire to go bad in the door jam at the access door to the car. i have to work on it this weekend ..what a pain....as of now i have the motor disconnected and the window up with a vice grips.
if you have any other ideas let me know
snowdowg out
 

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WHEN YOU CHECK FOR POWER DONT GROUND ONE END TO THE BODY , PUT YOUR METER IN BOTH WIRES THAT GO TO THE MOTOR FLIP THE SWITCH UP U SHOULD HAVE 12V THEN FLIP IT DOWN YOU SHOULD HAVE 12V AGAIN IF NOT YOU HAVE A CUT WIRE
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well, i finally figured out the problem that i had with my windows... The wiring harnes that comes through the back passenger door jamb i think has a short in one or two of the connectors because, when i wiggle the harness while holding the driver switch down, the window will start to roll down. Thanks for you help and that was was a pain in the ass to figure it out and the entire time it was right under my nose...:D
 

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For any Sedan owner experiencing problems with rear window activation. The first place to check is the wiring harness connector located within the B pillar (door harness to body harness connection). Corrosion tends to inhibit contact.
 

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they're cheaper if....

to those searching for a master window switch:

try http://www.car-part.com/
(using "front door switch" as the category)

my switch went out and i got one for $60 shipped in 3 days. very easy to replace.

hope this helps.
-zach
 

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i have had the same problem about a year ago. the prob was the multiple-pin connector in the left door frame (lower) between the doors. what happened on mine is that the one wire/pin that controls all of that was corroded. if i remember correctly, it was the pin with the green wire (not 100% sure tho). i ended up cleaning it and then applying some DC-4 (which is an electrical insulating compound) to the pins to prevent further corrosion. you can also use vaseline or any other corrosion preventive compound. i reconnected it and everything worked fine again. i have never had a problem with that again.

click here for the wiring diagram.

if that is not the fix, i do have an extra master window switch i will be willing to sell if anyone is interested. the only prob with it is the AUTO down for the driver window doesnt work. the switch for the driver window works tho...just not the AUTO detent. all the other switches work as well.

click here to see a pic of the master switch i have.

email me if anyone is interested in the master switch.

hope this helps

lates.
 

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help on what to look for on the window prob...

Just Bought A Mint 96 Rl, Drove It Home 2200 Miles And Everything Checked Out Perfect, Now I Got It Home And I Am Having The Left Rear Window Prob, It Goes Down Easy From Both Switchs, Does Not Go Up,
I Hear And Feel The Motor Trying To Push It But Stops And Feels Like Its Binding Or Something, I Had To Palm The Window And Pul It Up In Place, Is There Anyone Who Can Tell Me How To Pop Off The Inner Panal To Check , I Dont Want To Do Any Damage Etc,,,,
Also If There Is Any Piks Of What I Am To Do It Would Be Greatly Appreciated
Thanks
Love This Car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
 
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