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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All. I've bought a 125K miles legend, and I don't know very much about the past of this car. All I know is that belts was changed at 75K, as some parts like brakes discs and common things. I've buyed my legend about 1700$. But my tranny is broken, and I'll swap with a tranny from United Kingdom (remember I'm from France ;)). So, I'll spend money in my legend, and I want it last. Here the thing I'll change with the tranny:
AT Oil Filter (strainer ATF)
GASKET, TORQUE CONVERTER CASE
O-RING (for the AT Filter)
GASKET, OIL PAN
6 sparks
Oil filter + o ring
Fuel filter + o ring
air filter
10 Liters ATF Fluid
Coolant Liquid.

Then I've plan to change the following parts in june/july.
Timing belt + tensionner
Alternator belt
Water pump
Radiator + hoses (depending to the price)
Cylinder Head gasket set (if it worth :s)

What do you think about that ? Head gasket is not probably necessary, but I've the problem of the erratic rpm needle, which goes up & down at cold start. I'll check the coolant for air bubbles for sure ;).
Well, any advices for a guy who want to take care of his legend, but also on his money :D
 

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if you have irratic idle check your t.p.s (trottle position sensor) i wouldnt pull heads tho, if u dont know if the last owners maintained it posssibly change head gaskets. if the car reapeatedly idles up and then drops back down kinda like hi-lo-hi-lo-hi-lo get new tps they are cheap or you could find one in a junk legend everything else sounds like a good idea i would also have the block flushed and vaccuum lines cleaned , on top of that new bushings on the front end all around and your ride would feel like it was new
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
if you have irratic idle check your t.p.s (trottle position sensor) i wouldnt pull heads tho, if u dont know if the last owners maintained it posssibly change head gaskets. if the car reapeatedly idles up and then drops back down kinda like hi-lo-hi-lo-hi-lo get new tps they are cheap or you could find one in a junk legend everything else sounds like a good idea i would also have the block flushed and vaccuum lines cleaned , on top of that new bushings on the front end all around and your ride would feel like it was new
Thanks,that's what my rpm do ! I'll check that. Anyway, what are the vacuum lines ? It appears it sound like hoses... And what is the block ? Is that the engine ? Sorry but I did not learnt mechanics english at school :D
 

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want your ride solid?

do everything you were gonna do and then

check tps
buy new thermostat (legends eat them)
buy new engine temp sending unit
new front bushings and motor mounts if necessary
block flush
fill new tranny with 7 qts (while parked) while adding the last three and shift from park gear by gear back to park(your tranny is abig hydraulic pump) you want no air pockets or anything that may be hard on a gear.
buy new shocks dude-they help alot
also fuel filter i can say without looking cuz they get real clogged but they will work just restricted
go and repair any worn cracked or otherwise bad wiring
degrease the motor whare all sending units and sensors are (prevents misreading)clean the whole motor cuz you would b pretty much anyway
jack your ride up and check wheel bearrings (this sucks when they go out and you are far from home)that would prbly b good to start

the block in einglsh mechanics, is the lower end of the enging witch houses he pistons connecting rods and crankshaft

have your cooling system fushed is what i meant

man hows europe? i bet you see the best cars n stuff, your emissions laws are less strict than here in the us

does your legend have the honda badges insead of acura?
 

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Vacuum lines are the black hoses with numbers on it, spray some brake cleaner on them and you'll see if there is a leak.

eacv valve can cleaned there is a diy in the diy forum.

If you wanna do a head gasket job buy a cheap headgasket kit from ebay and oem headgasket from the dealer and use only honda coolant and honda atf.

And use only oem honda thermostat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
does your legend have the honda badges insead of acura?
Thanks for all your posts dudes.
For sure it is a Honda :)
For the emissions, we got new laws since this year, that professional vehicles have to pay huge amount of cash if their vehicle is beyond a certain degree of emission. For people, just the technical control check it, so if your catalyzer is done you may have troubles because this control should be done every 2 years (then most of us don't do that), but nobody will buy a car without that as the insurance reclaim it.
Well, I didn't know that a block could be flushed, unless we talk about the flush of the motor oil, the same oil which goes to the oil filter. is there a DIY ?
The shocks are OK for now.
I'll flush the coolant system when buying new radiator & thermostat.
I don't know what are the busher, aren't they the plastic cylinders that are in the direction axle ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Vacuum lines are the black hoses with numbers on it, spray some brake cleaner on them and you'll see if there is a leak.

eacv valve can cleaned there is a diy in the diy forum.

If you wanna do a head gasket job buy a cheap headgasket kit from ebay and oem headgasket from the dealer and use only honda coolant and honda atf.

And use only oem honda thermostat.
EACV is the IACV right ? (check my other post ;)) Why buying a cheap kit then an OEM gasket ? for the other gaskets which are less important ?
 

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bushings are usualy like little rubber washers and stuff mostly for your suspension if you took your suspension apart you sould see i think there are like 5 on each side in the front they damper rattles and shake so the ride is smooth but if your rid feel like a newer car does then you are fine

good luck with your ride dude hope i helped with the idle issue,i will hit you up and see if that was the tps
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
bushings are usualy like little rubber washers and stuff mostly for your suspension if you took your suspension apart you sould see i think there are like 5 on each side in the front they damper rattles and shake so the ride is smooth but if your rid feel like a newer car does then you are fine
Ok thanks man :) I think My legend will see I love her that I could ride it to hell lol. But before that My tranny should work ! :s I'll get a 46k miles tranny from a break yard in UK...
 

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mines auto right now but it will light up 1st gear and 2nd,i got custom headers,y-pipe to 3inch exhaust splt to dual 2'3/4" otto racing comany made it i guess and weapon r cold air converted intake with 750cc injectors itsfun with all that and its inexpensive for the power gain
 

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Whoa whoa whoa....

I only read the first few posts here but whoever suggested you replace the head gaskets as a preventative item is nuts.

First order of business on that car is to bleed the cooling system.

Watch the coolant level carefully from then forward: if you're losing coolant, you need to determine why. This is when you *might* start to consider your head gaskets suspect, which presents a decision for you:

You could either start by assuming the head gaskets are shot:
In that case, I would have a hydrocarbon test done on the cooling system. If it fails, your head gaskets need to be replaced.

If there are no hydrocarbons in the coolant, you may consider checking the engine's compression. If it checks out as well (all readings are within 10% of one another) then your head gaskets are fine.

At this point, I would do a cooling system pressure test and figure out where your leak is: it's likely a hose on an engine of this age or something to that affect.

OR
You can assume your head gaskets are fine and start with the cooling system leak test first and in the event that no leaks are found, you can test for head gasket failure as described above.

Replacing head gaskets as a preventative measure is plain silly and likely ineffective: if it's something else in the system that's causing air to get into the system, when something eventually fails it will kill brand new head gaskets just as quickly as it will kill older ones. The absolute first requirement is to figure out WHY the car is idling funny... I suspect it's nothing as significant as failed head gaskets (I'm not saying it's a sure thing of course, but verify that the problems that are several hundred dollars cheaper to fix aren't your problem first or you'll be hating life later.)


If you want the thing to get in 100% perfect maintenance condition than the whole list probably includes (and perhaps isn't limited to):

All new filters and fluids: air, fuel, oil, transmission, brakes, power steering, coolant (use Honda Type II pre-mix coolant from your dealer)
All new cooling system hoses and a new thermostat
All new belts and water pump
EGR & PCV service
New spark plugs

On a 125k mile motor... I'd say the belts and water pump are unnecessary if they were done at 75k (the recommended service interval is 7 years or 90k miles) but you can have the belts inspected and decide for yourself if you think it's necessary.

A few of the things you've mentioned (at least, the US parts) don't have o-rings like you've suggested but that's no biggy... always remember new crush washers though!

The couple of gaskets you've mentioned don't need to be replaced unless you're breaking the seal they create for some other reason or they're already leaking. (I agree with with the AT gasket if you're dropping the AT pan to clean it/etc but the oil pan I wouldn't do unless it's leaking)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Whoa whoa whoa....

I only read the first few posts here but whoever suggested you replace the head gaskets as a preventative item is nuts.

First order of business on that car is to bleed the cooling system.

Watch the coolant level carefully from then forward: if you're losing coolant, you need to determine why. This is when you *might* start to consider your head gaskets suspect, which presents a decision for you:

You could either start by assuming the head gaskets are shot:
In that case, I would have a hydrocarbon test done on the cooling system. If it fails, your head gaskets need to be replaced.

If there are no hydrocarbons in the coolant, you may consider checking the engine's compression. If it checks out as well (all readings are within 10% of one another) then your head gaskets are fine.

At this point, I would do a cooling system pressure test and figure out where your leak is: it's likely a hose on an engine of this age or something to that affect.

OR
You can assume your head gaskets are fine and start with the cooling system leak test first and in the event that no leaks are found, you can test for head gasket failure as described above.

Replacing head gaskets as a preventative measure is plain silly and likely ineffective: if it's something else in the system that's causing air to get into the system, when something eventually fails it will kill brand new head gaskets just as quickly as it will kill older ones. The absolute first requirement is to figure out WHY the car is idling funny... I suspect it's nothing as significant as failed head gaskets (I'm not saying it's a sure thing of course, but verify that the problems that are several hundred dollars cheaper to fix aren't your problem first or you'll be hating life later.)

If you want the thing to get in 100% perfect maintenance condition than the whole list probably includes (and perhaps isn't limited to):

All new filters and fluids: air, fuel, oil, transmission, brakes, power steering, coolant (use Honda Type II pre-mix coolant from your dealer)
All new cooling system hoses and a new thermostat
All new belts and water pump
EGR & PCV service
New spark plugs

On a 125k mile motor... I'd say the belts and water pump are unnecessary if they were done at 75k (the recommended service interval is 7 years or 90k miles) but you can have the belts inspected and decide for yourself if you think it's necessary.

A few of the things you've mentioned (at least, the US parts) don't have o-rings like you've suggested but that's no biggy... always remember new crush washers though!

The couple of gaskets you've mentioned don't need to be replaced unless you're breaking the seal they create for some other reason or they're already leaking. (I agree with with the AT gasket if you're dropping the AT pan to clean it/etc but the oil pan I wouldn't do unless it's leaking)
Hi, thanks for your post! The oil pan is because I'll change my tranny that is dead. My water pump didn't has been changed, so I'll make timing belt and pump + thermostat at the same time in 1 or 2 month, when i'll get money :)
For now, I'll change tranny, radiator and hoses, AT Oil filter, Oil Filter, Air filter and fuel filter. I think it's a good start + flush of coolant system.
Should I change my temp sensor ?
THanks :)
 

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Hi, thanks for your post! The oil pan is because I'll change my tranny that is dead. My water pump didn't has been changed, so I'll make timing belt and pump + thermostat at the same time in 1 or 2 month, when i'll get money :)
For now, I'll change tranny, radiator and hoses, AT Oil filter, Oil Filter, Air filter and fuel filter. I think it's a good start + flush of coolant system.
Should I change my temp sensor ?
THanks :)
I don't think I've ever had a temp sensor replaced... I'd say if you're confident that you won't let the car overheat and you know how to diagnose the temp sensor if/when it fails, it doesn't need to be done unless it starts acting up.
 
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