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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So heres the problem i bleed the clutch with the engine off and she feels good but when i start the engine up the pedal drops and you have to push the pedal to the floor and HOPE she'll go in gear then when you let off the clucth the pedal wont come all the way. What the deal should i keep bleeding :mad:
 

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88_acro said:
So heres the problem i bleed the clutch with the engine off and she feels good but when i start the engine up the pedal drops and you have to push the pedal to the floor and HOPE she'll go in gear then when you let off the clucth the pedal wont come all the way. What the deal should i keep bleeding :mad:
Yeah, just keep bleeding 88_acro... probably air bubbles are not all expelled from the system, also, check clutch cable adjustment, pedal height and free play. BTW you have an assistant helping you bleed the system, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
pnoye2 said:
BTW you have an assistant helping you bleed the system, right?
NO, are you crazy i use my third arm pff j/k yah i push the pedal and he opens the bleeder pedal goes to the floor he closes the bleeder

but why does the pedal drop when i start the car? I quess ill keep bleeding her when i get home
 

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88_acro said:
NO, are you crazy i use my third arm pff j/k yah i push the pedal and he opens the bleeder pedal goes to the floor he closes the bleeder

but why does the pedal drop when i start the car? I quess ill keep bleeding her when i get home
Third arm... :giggle: :giggle: :giggle:

Seriously though 88_acro... improper bleeding is mostly the cause of what your currently experiencing IMO, next time you bled your hydraulic clutch system; try this steps.

Slightly open the bled screw
Slowly depress the clutch pedal
Close bled screw when the pedal reaches the end of its travel
Allow the clutch pedal to return slowly

Repeat sequence 4-5 times until air bubbles are all expelled out, hope this helps... ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
pnoye2 said:
Third arm... :giggle: :giggle: :giggle:

Seriously though 88_acro... improper bleeding is mostly the cause of what your currently experiencing IMO, next time you bled your hydraulic clutch system; try this steps.

Slightly open the bled screw
Slowly depress the clutch pedal
Close bled screw when the pedal reaches the end of its travel
Allow the clutch pedal to return slowly

Repeat sequence 4-5 times until air bubbles are all expelled out, hope this helps... ;)
This is what we do except i pump the pedal a few time FIRST and it works great except when you start the car its like i did nothing! ive bleed brakes and clutched on my other cars but this one is being a bee itch
 

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88_acro said:
i start the engine up the pedal drops and you have to push the pedal to the floor and HOPE she'll go in gear then when you let off the clucth the pedal wont come all the way
...well, if another round of bleeding doesn't address your issue 88_acro... then above symptoms could also be a cause of "Partial Disengagement" that occurs when there is a problem with the hydraulic clutch release system, check for a bad master or slave cylinder.

It is also possible that there might be an internal leak in the master cylinder, to test for an internal leak is to pump the clutch pedal and hold it to the floor while starting the engine, if the clutch slowly begins to engage, there is an internal leak.
 

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Another possibily is your clutch job you just did may be incorrect.


But Assuming your clutch is installed properly and working this is how you bleed the hydralic clutches :


Purchase a Mighty VAC Handheld Vacuum Pump or use a AIR Powered Pump (I use this works pro)


Hook it up to the slave cyl. and top off master cyl. res. fluid to the top.

Open the bleeder screw and start sucking, keep the res. full of fluid, do this until you go through about 1/4 quart of DOT3 then close valve and pump the pedal a few times and your done.

Somtimes its normal to have to actually PULL the pedal up off the floor while bleeding, but only once or twice then it should build pressure and hold.
 

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here's what helped me...

when you are bleeding the clutch.. have your assistant push and hold the release arm against the slave cylinder shaft... that way when you push the pedal in, the fluid is being directed out that bleeder valve instead of pushing the shaft.

I had to do this because I was bleeding by the procedures described in the manual and it was making my pedal go straight to the floor with no effort whatsoever...

Lemme know if you need a more detailed explanation

~Mike~
 

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if you're too poor for a vacuum pump, the shop that did my clutch had a little gadget where its just a bottle with two hoses going in the lid. one goes all the way down into the bottle while the other is an inch from the lid. Then you use the car's vacuum lines on the short hose to do the suction on the long hose which is connected to the bleeder valve

haha, cheap s but its creative.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
ok so i finally found my problem after this long; all i had to do was adjust the clutch pedal. On the back of the pedal there is an arm that pushes against the master loosen then lock nut and back the arm out of the pedal and voila.
 
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