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README: Corner Balancing and Alignment

12143 Views 46 Replies 19 Participants Last post by  kotetu
Dear Every Coil-Over-Driving Legend Owner--
You should corner-balance your Legend; otherwise you're not taking advantage of what your coil-overs were designed to do. Lowering is only a side effect, or perk, of installing coil-overs.

On with it! Believe me when I write that my Legend is difficult to align--so difficult that I've been turned away from a couple shops (including the dealership). Without a doubt, West End Alignment in Gardina, CA offers alignment and corner-balancing perfection, even for meticulous folks like myself. The guy is a suspension genius; he asks the right questions; his advice is solid. These words cannot describe how satisfied I am, or how my face hurts from grinning the entire two-hour drive home. For once, my Legend is as it should have been. It feels super agile and nimble on its toes.

The Legend about to be corner balanced:

My corner balance results:

The guy moved ~75lbs. of weight off the driver's front wheel, which roughly equates to removing a 400lb. guy out of the driver's seat. As you can see from the results above, relocating the battery to the passenger rear of the car (directly above the wheel) should almost perfectly left/right balance the coupe with me sitting in it.

My alignment is a perfect 1.5 degree camber on both front tires with 4.5 degrees caster and no toe (zero). Both rear tires are running 1.25 degrees of negative camber and 1/16 inches of toe in. I think this is a perfect track setup for a Legend. If you do not track your Legend, or drive aggressively, then run much less camber or you'll be roasting tires!

I wish that you guys could drive the before and after. If you have any questions about corner balancing or alignments, please ask. I can hopefully help. If you would like to schedule an appointment with West End, see below. I cannot recommend them high enough!

18008 S Vermont Ave
Gardena, CA 90248
(310) 808-9233

See you all at the Nationals tomorrow!


Both the alignment and corner-balancing were done with me sitting in the car the entire time.
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cost? I'll have to get this done after I get the ksports in. Too bad they are not already in!
You had better be there in the TT tomorrow, or else!

He spent about 3.5/4 hours with me and the cost was $215.


If anybody thinks to chime in with babble about $215 being a ripoff because mechanics should work for free, then I hope somebody e-punches you in the face for being an asshat.
Keith, just curious as to how you moved your battery to the trunk. I've been considering some weight-balancing for a while now but I'm still not sure as to how great the benefit is (esp. since I have yet to see track action in my Legend and the closest thing so far is local twisties). But of course, I'm interested in maximizing my car's handling potential =)

Also, is this something that can be done only with height-adjustable coilovers? My suspension adjusts damper levels only =/
Ohhh, you won't be able to sensibly corner-balance your car without adjustable spring rates.

There are battery relocation kits for purchase online, but you should ask DV8 or anybody who's relocated theirs. I haven't started mine, yet. Let us know what you find out! I'm thinking that we could remove the storage container on the right and stuff a smallish battery there.

Except for the JIC's for some reason. Their height adjustment compresses the spring. In looking at the Ksports, it's pretty easy to leave the spring alone - not sure why JIC engineered theirs that way.
Ground Controls are not true coil-overs, and they do affect the spring pre-load as the height moves. I have not seen a shock-body adjustable Skunk either.

Most coil-overs do not adjust at the shock body; that's a relatively new design. JICs are the older style coil-overs; they've been out for years.

Side note:
Don't waste your money on the JICs unless you're just into having the stiffest riding Legend on Earth. The Ksports offer much more adjustability, the dampeners are softer, and handling doesn't seem adversely affected by either of these things. The only difference, and Brian thinks it may be tire-related, was that Brian's Ksport coupe understeers and I oversteer with JICs.

keith you need some lighter wheels bro.
The wheels I've got now weigh 21 lbs. ea. which isn't too bad for two-piece forged 18x8"s. Or, do you mean light like 9lb. Spoon rims? :) I'm stuck with 17"s at the smallest because of the big brakes.
I dunno. Ground controls, stock assemblies, Ksport... etc. They are all still "true" coilovers.

Definition of coilovers are coil springs over struts. So if you combine Skunk2 sleeves/springs with the struts, it's considered coilovers as a whole unit.
I think of the Ground Controls as sleeved springs, but I see your point too. Regardless, Skunk Coilovers = shit ;P
if you get 9lb wheels you wont have good traction till end of 2 begining of 3rd. which kinda sounds cool, but your track time will rise a cupple milli seconds.

but good research on the suspention! ::thumbsup:

also btw the rims Dv8 has are like 15lbs (volks) and probably 13lbs (slicks)
Dv8's rims are forged monoblocks; mine are two-piece forged. Both of our rims are Volks, but just about any monoblock is lighter than a two-piece. I bought my rims because they're the fucking tits, not because of their performance ;)
+1 Same here.
Bro, I'm not trying to brag, but I'm not going to lie either. Our wheels are possibly the nicest set of rims ever manufactured on Planet Earth. I don't care if they weighed 30lbs. each, I'd still rock 'em (albeit with a lighter set for track use ;P)

By the way, don't you have two spare barrels for sale? Your new signature is beautiful.
Yea, I got two barrels for sale. If you were to put your rim spokes on them, they would be +40mm offset. It looks as if your coupe has even flushness with the front and rears, so I'm not sure if you would like to have the rears out more.

For some reason, the sedans seems to have the fronts stick out more than the rear, so I had to make the rears poke more, and it still seems the front poke more than the rear. Hmm..
My front sit slightly more flush than the rear too, even thought they've got more negative camber than the rear. My rear has toe-in, though. I used to think that was why?

What are you asking for the barrels? Any curb rash, dings, or bends?

The JIC spring rates are 14/8, and the dampeners are much stiffer than the Ksports, even compared to the Ksports dialed all the way to stiff. Do the Ksports have a progressive-rate spring?

My car definitely oversteers and Brian's understeers like a typical Legend. Since our tires aren't staggered, the difference should be suspension-related.

Daft Punk tonight!

I think my tires are the major reason for my understeer, even though I do oversteer quite a bit, the first reaction of my car is to push through the turn like a semi on ice at full lock.

Keith was running BFG's against my Kuhmo's and I'd warrant a bet that had we switched rims/tires we'd have switched handling characteristics as well.
I drove my car on the factory 16s and it still oversteers.

Well written, misdeismo :) The JICs are _not_ reliable, especially being driven over public roads; they're designed to be used on the track, and have wicked high compression dampeners that are known to start leaking through the seals. I've got ~2 years on mine and don't expect them to last another two. Road turbulence and potholes murder the JICs.

Look at these:
The more comfortable JICs... (comfortable is relative) I might look into those once I bust the dampeners on mine, but will most likely just get the Ksports.

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