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ok i was in the process of removing my whole knuckle to take it in to get a new wheel bearing, i got the other 2 ball joint bolts off and seperated from the knuckle(the upper and the one one for the steering is it the tie rod??) but the lower one i couldent get, i was able to turn the bolt but the bolt wasent comming off the ball was turning in the joint above but theres no way to hold/secure the top is there?? while i turn the nut. What the hell am i supposed to do??
 

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Roger said:
ok i was in the process of removing my whole knuckle to take it in to get a new wheel bearing, i got the other 2 ball joint bolts off and seperated from the knuckle(the upper and the one one for the steering is it the tie rod??) but the lower one i couldent get, i was able to turn the bolt but the bolt wasent comming off the ball was turning in the joint above but theres no way to hold/secure the top is there?? while i turn the nut. What the hell am i supposed to do??
Roger, after reading your post/question several times, I concluded that you have a problem with the lower ball joint in your car's front suspension.

The Helms service manual does not address your particular problem therefore some ingenuity is called for.

First, clean the threaded end that is sticking out carefully to insure that the threads are not damaged. If there is serious damage to the threads you may have to use a torch and cut the nut off because it is doubtful that the nut will turn through the damaged threads if you can't keep the tapered bolt from turning. This is an extreme case however,so read on.

Threads not damaged, place a bottle ( hudraulic ) jack or some other jack, under the lower arm assembly next to the ball joint and let the weight of the car bear down fully on the jack.

With a blunt punch, a large brass drift is good, against the nut hit it with some sharp blows to jar it. Do not hit the nut directly, but hit the blunt punch or some other blunt metal that you are using. To avoid damaging the nut, hit the flats of the hex. Then try the wrench or an air impact tool, if you have one, which would be better.

OR,if you have access to some sort of torch such as a small handheld propane torch, apply some heat to the nut for a short duration. Caution, apply heat to one spot on the nut, and then quickly, with the correct wrench, try to turn the nut. If you have an air impact wrench available, that works wonders.
Heat will expand the nut but as soon as the heat fully transfers to the bolt,
the bolt will expand and bind also and then you will have to wait for things to cool and retry. This is a very good method that I have used sucessfully countless times, but, you must be careful and not overheat the parts of the lower arm assembly that the ball joint is attached to.

There is a special ball joint removal tool shown in the manual that you can buy and that may well work. I have not used this type of tool so I dunno for sure. I think the tool is used to press out the tapered bolt end of the ball joint from it's mounting, after the nut is removed.

You can also try jamming some sort of wedge in the knuckle over the ball joint end that you can see. The idea here is to put pressure on the ball to keep it from turning. Perhaps a cold chisel will cut into the fairly thin metal that covers the ball and you can jam an old screw driver in there against the ball.

The above are some of the methods that I have used in the past that have worked for me. Of course, I am equipped with all the tools needed. You may well have to re-assembly the front end and go to the pros for the lower ball joint removal if the above described methods are more than you can cope with.

Good luck. RAP
 

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lol.. that about covers everything i was gonna say.. except with the full weight of the front resting on the lower arm to push the ball joint stud further into the knuckle try banging the l/arm with a hammer as close to the nut as poss or a suitable part of the knuckle as this will help the stud bind a little more.. also depending on how far you got the nut off you could try to get a strong flathead screw driver for some leverage and insert it between the nut and the l/arm and lever(in essence trying to lever the nut off)as this will also bring the stud into the l/arm but with a bit more force(a jemmie bar is normaly best) uum :rolleyes: .. no thats all i can think of.. good luck i know how frustrating it can be.. its always the last one huh.. always
 

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In looking at the HELM and also in a Motor Crash Estimating Guide, I cannot find a reference for a lower ball joint. The HELM appears to indicate that it is part of the knuckle. The only HELM reference is dust boot replacement. I believe that experiencing the play in the shaft/ball of the balljoint would indicate that the balljoint needs to be replaced. The tool mentioned (balljoint remover) is only to push the shaft down and out, the nut having been previously removed.

The last time I was pondering a Legend puzzle, I called Acura of Augusta and they kindly allowed me to speak with one of the line techs. I would call just to determine whether the balljoint is available sans the knuckle.
 

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It's my understanding that the lower ball joint is not available separately and is made as part of the knuckle. The upper ball joint is a different story. Seems like I was told that you have to buy the entire lower control arm from Acura although there are aftermarket replacements.

According to the HELM, there is a special tool to pop the ball joint apart as well as to remove the bearing. I believe I'd let a shop do this if you don't have the tools
 

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Wouldn't a nut cracker tool work in this situation. This is simply a tool that is attached to the nut itself, then tightened until the nut breaks, after which it is just removed. Then just install a new nut on re-assembly.

But, I think Stevieray is right. Just install the bearing with the knuckle in the car. The labor charge on this job will be very low, I think. In this weather, I'd pay a tech to do the job.
 

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stevieray said:
It's my understanding that the lower ball joint is not available separately and is made as part of the knuckle. The upper ball joint is a different story. Seems like I was told that you have to buy the entire lower control arm from Acura although there are aftermarket replacements.

According to the HELM, there is a special tool to pop the ball joint apart as well as to remove the bearing. I believe I'd let a shop do this if you don't have the tools
Didn't know that the ball joint is not sold seperate. Recently facing the same problem with a Nissan, having to change the joint due to a damaged dust cover, I found out that the ball joint was not sold seperatly from the arm, however, NAPA does sell those seperate and changing them is a snap. Maybe Acura doesn't like DIY'ers folling around with their lower balls. ;) Acura does sell the dust boots seperate however, and they can be changed according to the manual.

Never used the Nutcracker idea but that may well work. Also forgot to mention that an air chisel/gun will also work to jar a stubborn nut or nuts. I use an old chisel, that comes with the gun, and grind the sharp end blunt and then use it to jar.

RAP
 

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Originally the ball joint was not sold seperately, 92 or 93 we figured out the g1 ball joint was exactly the same (and I mean exactly) and 2 years later Honda put out the one for the g2. part # that fits 51220-SL5-013.
 

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Can you hold the taper stud inplace with a jack stand and the weight of the car then put spray lube on the threads and use an air powered 1/2" impact wrench to remove the nut. If the threads are mushroomed from the removal process you can just take them off with a file. running the nut up and down a fwe times while adding lube will usualy take it off. The high impact force of the air ratchet is the key.
 
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