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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
(1.) Was there ever a stock Legend with a type 1 motor and 6 speed transmission?
(2.) If not, has anyone ever got the reverse lockout to work on a 6-speed swapped type 1 motor and how?
(3.) What are the consequences of using a type 2 ECU with a type 1 motor?
(4.) Is it possible to use an extra ECU to "tap off" the necessary inputs (speed sensor?) and only have it operate the reverse lockout?
(5.) Where is the relay that operates the R.L.O. located?
(6.) Do i need any other parts to make it work?
(7.) Anyone have the wiring diagrams for both the 5 speed and the 6 speed ECUs?

I love this new 6 speed, but battling going into 5th and grinding reverse instead of hitting 6th is getting old and it feels sloppy. I'm willing to go through alot of aggrivation to get the reverse lockout to work. Also, the place that sold me the transmission told me it was a 5 speed, so I think I can get them to give me all the parts free/cheap from the donor vehicle (93 coupe, I think) since this is something of a safety issue.
 

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The solenoid is on the trans, to engaged I believe it has to be hot. The best way to do it if it's possible is to put in a relay that is normally closed and would only open when the brake is depressed. (assuming you wouldn't try to shift into 6th while on the brakes)
 

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PSA said:
The solenoid is on the trans, to engaged I believe it has to be hot. The best way to do it if it's possible is to put in a relay that is normally closed and would only open when the brake is depressed. (assuming you wouldn't try to shift into 6th while on the brakes)
I thought about doing this. My only concern is that once you engage reverse and release the brakes, the relay will apply power to the solenoid again and it will attempt to operate. I don't know if it would encounter interference from the shift fork under these circumstances. Or maybe there would be room for it operate once the fork has moved fully to reverse.

I've been wanting to fix this on my car for a while now, and I was thinking of buying a 6 spd ecu and wiring up the relay, but this would be a lot cheaper if it worked ok. Plus I don't want to lose my Bayou chipped 5 spd ecu. I may remove the solenoid on mine soon and take a look at things. If it looks like there won't be interference between the solenoid and the reverse fork, this would be a very simple fix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Kenso said:
My only concern is that once you engage reverse and release the brakes, the relay will apply power to the solenoid again and it will attempt to operate. I don't know if it would encounter interference from the shift fork under these circumstances. Or maybe there would be room for it operate once the fork has moved fully to reverse.
You could wire it up so that either the brake or the reverse light would energize the relay. (like, brake to energize it, and reverse to hold.)
But for me, I don't see either solution working. I do alot of footwork while I'm out there on the interstate, and I don't need the shifter acting differently depending on whether or not I'm on the brake. The way I drive, it's a disaster waiting to happen.

I didn't really want to be the first one to try experimenting with this thing. Surely someone else has tried it already. I've had a few ideas as far as how to do this entirely from 'scratch', but I don't know how to do the electronics to implement it. Ultimately, I'd like to do it the way Acura intended it to be done and using all Acura parts. Any more suggestions?
 

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92LSCoupe said:
. Ultimately, I'd like to do it the way Acura intended it to be done and using all Acura parts. Any more suggestions?
You'll need a 6 spd ecu (non-tcs), the sub-harness for the reverse lockout solenoid (runs from the solenoid up to the back of the intake manifold and contains a diode to protect the ecu) and a relay. The relay would have been installed in the relay box on the pass. side near the ABS modulator. If you look, there is an empty spot in the box. You would need to add the necessary wiring from the ecu to the relay and from the relay to the solenoid subharness. As well as running power to the relay. If you locate an ecu and really want to pursue it, I can get you the wiring schematics.

BTW, good idea on using the reverse light circuit to keep the solenoid off. I'm thinking along the same lines as you though, I'd rather have it wired up OEM style if possible. So far, no one that I know of who has done this swap has added functionality to the reverse lockout solenoid. I believe you or I would be the first to attempt it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks again for all the info. Today I'm going to try to get in touch with the folks who sold me the transmission. I did a search on TCS and I'm not sure why I need an ECU without traction control. I'll do some more searching though. Also, to get this or any additional ECU to function enough to run the RLO, I'm sure I need power to it, and at least a speed sensor input. Without any other inputs connected to it, I'm going to have to assume that the ECU is going to think things are terribly, terribly wrong with the car it thinks it's installed in. The question is, how 'in the dark' can it be and still function enough to do the RLO. Also, will I be able to just parallel the inputs from the original ECU and the extra one? Will diodes inline allow me to do that or do I have to do more?
 

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I was planning on replacing my ECU completely with the 6 spd one. As far as piggybacking the 6 spd ecu with the original ecu, I don't know if that would work out for you or not. I'm not entirely sure how big of a deal it would be to run your type 1 off a type 2 ecu, I don't think it would really be a problem. The VIS opening points are a little different, I'm sure the fuel maps might differ a bit as well, but I'd be willing to bet you could get away with it. I'm going to be running type 2 heads soon so it won't be an issue on my coupe, forgot that you were still working with the type 1. If it were me, I'd go with swapping the entire ecu. Otherwise, you'll definitely be covering uncharted territory around here.
 
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