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When I got my door speakers installed, I wanted to run them off my deck. But, since I had the amplified system in the back, there was no wires that were in the place that I wanted them to be. I assumed that it would be easy to just run a short wires through the plug in the door, and connect for my door speakers. Well, apparently there is a plug that has all of the wires that go to the door, and it is harness style. The installer told me that he would have had to drill through the plug, and that he did not feel comfortable doing that.

So he ended up hooking up the preouts to the front speaker connection on the deck, and then he connected those to the door speakers in the back..... kinda a half-assed job, but better than buddy messing up my power windows or something.

However, your wires should already be coming from the console area, so there should be no need for you to re-wire....

Probably not the answer you are looking for, but it is not necessary to do so....:)
 

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meber
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The reason I am asking is because I am still having problems getting my door speaker to work. I have chaged out the head unit and it still does not work. This is really starting to piss me off.

I bought those speakers from you and I still have yet to use them because I can't get the one door to work.
 

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That sux...

I guess if you changed the head unit, and it did not help, then rewiring is your best bet. Check with a test light to see if you have voltage to the wires. I am not sure exactly where the plug is, but it is located somewhere near the panel on the left, in the foot well. I am not sure how you get the carpet out, but I think you have totake the molding off. Also, where ever that cluster of wires goes into the door, check and see if the speaker wire is maybe frayed or damaged, or not even hooked up.... good luck.
 

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meber
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have a multimeter and I will check when I get home. If that turns up bad how much would it cost to get the door rewiried?
 

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First I would want to see what has caused the wire to have no current. A common cause of shorts in electrical components is rubbing with a piece of metal, which wares down the rubber coating on the wire, which will eventually touch the wire and short it out. Maybe something behind the headunit has rubbed on the wire and it has lost contact.... in that case, just splice in a new peice of wire.

In my experiences, a wire usually just does not die..... there is a reason for the wire not working, and if you want to do it properly, make sure you find out what it is.... but in all fairness, I could not see acura charging more than an hour to run a new wire to your door....

:confused:
 

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Problem solved through patience and will power

Don't sweat it man I know it can be done with extreme patience I will walk you through as I have experience from doing this last night to wire up a tweeter. No drilling is necessary unless you want to but I wouldn't know why!>??!?! Anyway here goes...

First I started on the passanger door. I had removed the door panels from this door and the driver side. I took out the speaker holding thinga majigi with four screws that mount it to the door. When I removed this I unplugged the harness and took the speaker out. I grabbed the speaker wire I used for my tweeters., a knife and some dull scissors that don't have sharp ends put still cut. Remove the inside cover, and trim. The wires coming through are heavily taped from electrical you goal right now is to remove the electrical tape completely..this is a ***** and takes the vast majority of your time You really have to get in there to get at it. Once you manage to get the tape off then grab a wire hanger and straighten it out. gently get it through the door and through the rubber port into the car GENTLY!! You don't want to cut the wires..just gently wiggle it in if it don't give then don't force it just pull out and try getting it in again. Once you get the wire through loop the speaker wire over the hanger and take it through.
Then on the driver door don't get scared when you remove the fuse box cover and trim and see all the wires like i did. just gently remove the bolt hold iholding the fuses and gently pull till you see the brown lock(it is a wire holder that is tide around a **** load of wires squeeze the tabs together and pull it out then repeat like you did removing the e tape

GOOD LUCK

HOLLA BACK IF YOU NEED MORE ADVICE!
 

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Mckenzie93 said:
Well, apparently there is a plug that has all of the wires that go to the door, and it is harness style. The installer told me that he would have had to drill through the plug, and that he did not feel comfortable doing that.

So he ended up hooking up the preouts to the front speaker connection on the deck, and then he connected those to the door speakers in the back..... kinda a half-assed job, but better than buddy messing up my power windows or something.

Probably not the answer you are looking for, but it is not necessary to do so....:)
You can run some speaker wire through that rubber boot on the door that covers the original conector and wireharness. I used 16ga wire in my install. I did take off my fenders so I had more room to work with, but I heard someone said he managed to get speaker wire through with the fenders on. You did not have to drill a new hole. There is plenty of room for a few more wires in within that rubber bood.
 

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ChrisK said:


You can run some speaker wire through that rubber boot on the door that covers the original conector and wireharness. I used 16ga wire in my install. I did take off my fenders so I had more room to work with, but I heard someone said he managed to get speaker wire through with the fenders on. You did not have to drill a new hole. There is plenty of room for a few more wires in within that rubber bood.
Enough for a 8 gauge power wire and 4 16awg wires?
 

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BulletZero said:


Enough for a 8 gauge power wire and 4 16awg wires?
Not sure about the 8ga since I didn't do that, but I did run 2 sets of 16ga. One for my mids and one for my tweeters. I did have to snake the wires through, but it didn't seem much harder than any other door. 8 ga might need a bit tight though. Why do you need an 8ga in your door anyway?
 

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In my install that i'm currently working on, i was able to get two set of 16 gauge through the front door by removing the fender. Well...i was able to get two set of wire going through the plastic tubing on the passenger door, but on the driver door, i can't in anyway get the two set to fit the the plactic tubing since there's so much wire in it already. So i just drill hole on the side of it n run the wire through them. After the wire have been run, i wrapped it in electrical tape.
 

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DrEemAr gUy said:
In my install that i'm currently working on, i was able to get two set of 16 gauge through the front door by removing the fender. Well...i was able to get two set of wire going through the plastic tubing on the passenger door, but on the driver door, i can't in anyway get the two set to fit the the plactic tubing since there's so much wire in it already. So i just drill hole on the side of it n run the wire through them. After the wire have been run, i wrapped it in electrical tape.
Coupe or Sedan? I was able to do it on my Coupe, and I know someone actaully did it on a Sedan as well. The reason I know this is because I said to remove the fenders, but he somehow did it without removing the fenders. e then said he had a Sedan, sot he Coupe might be tighter. Either way, at least on a Coupe, I see no possible easy way to get the wires through without removing the fender.
 

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I got 12 guage wire through my door in a sedan. It was a tough job but I finally got it. I saw an install done in another legend where the installer cut the rubber protector on the top, split it apart and ran the wire through then used electrical tape to seal it back up. Worked slick! Would of saved me about an hour of screwing around.
 
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