definitely sounds interesting.

 

there in connecticut are you, ive asked this before cuz honestly having you take it apart and see it in person i could do and would be easier to tell. plus the rl ecu isnt where the legend one is. the rl ones are like under the ashtray and stuff. and i dont know how to take that stuff apart.

 

I appreciate the offer, but I wouldn't want you to make the trip all the way to connecticut for nothing. This would be better for someone that has a spare ECU kicking around so some pictures could be taken.

Thanks,
-Matt

 

eh it would give me something to do you know but whatever.

 

If you want to, its up to you, but I can't promise you anything. By the way, I looked in the parts diagrams and the ECU is located under the passenger's side footrest carpet. It is located underneath a metal plate.

-Matt

 

you have any idea on how to get to the ecu under there.

 

what would be the overall aim of this chipping project?
to gain power or to rise the MPG?

 

To gain more power!!! Also to understand and decode the RL's ECU and offer a chipping service for it. Another one of my goals is to adapt the RL ECU to work in the Legend - if we could do this, we could have the built in datalogging features of OBD2, not available on the G2 Legends.

I'm also hoping that the RL's ROM code is set up similiar to the G2 Legends, that way we could have a set of ignition and fuel maps to start tuning the 3.5 upgrade motors for the G2 Legends.

-Matt

 

i have an extra ecu you i can donate for this project.

 

It wouldn't require a donation! The ECU would be returned back to you in 100% working order. Depending on if it could be chipped or not, I shouldn't have it for more than a few weeks. Is there any way that you could take the covers off, and snap some pictures of the inside of the ECU?

Thanks,

Matt

 

Bump^ No interest, EH?

-Matt

 

I try and snap some pics this weekend. I would have done this sooner, but it has been -40C here for the last 3 weeks. Were getting a heat wave on Friday (-4C which is unseasonable warm) so I'll pull back the carpet, remove the ecu and take some pics.

BTW if the Rl ecu is chippable and you would like to donate a chip I already have a base line dyno of my RL with no mods. I would be willing to redyno after installing the chip to see what the gains are. Food for thought.

Steve

 

^^ I must have missed it sorry.

Great man, take your time. If I determine that it is in fact chippable, we would go from there. I would need an ECU I could hold on to and examine for a few weeks so I could remove the ROM chip, socket and examine the coding. This would be done at no charge of course.

Do you have pictures of the dyno slips? I'd like to see the HP/TQ curves.

Thanks,
Matt

 

hey man whats the baseline for the rl?

 

I baselined at 177 peak hp. I dont have all the details with me, but I can scan and post the graph tomorrow. I think that the numbers are a little high because the dyno tech entered the vehicle weight as 3500 pounds instead of closer to 4000 lbs.

 

This is on a dynojet or dynapack?

Vehicle weight isn't going to matter unless you used a G-tech or something.

 

Come on, lets not get too far off topic......who's going to step up and help out with the project?

Read post number one.

-Matt

 

Not to be rude, but did you even read my post at the end of page 1?

I'll try and take some pictures this weekend. It's cold here and I don't feel like freezing my butt off too much.

3g - the dyno run was on a dyno jet (in ground right?) not on the type that bolts to your hub.

 

One thing I was thinking about yesterday is;

The RL redlines at 5900 rpm. I will be installing a type 2 intake manifold this spring and redynoing. I understand that the type 2 design should move the power and torque curve higher up the RPM range. With your AT chips in legends can you control the maximum shift point by changing the redline, or are maximum rpm shift points a value that is stored in the AT daughter board?

Steven

 

The type II manifold will not modify your torque curve THAT much. A set of type II cams and valve springs will be what truly shifts it. I wouldn't rev the RL too far past 6400-6500 due to its weaker valvetrain.

The shift points on the Legends are controlled by the transmission daughterboard, but most will hold the gear to whatever rev limiter you set (which is modifiable). There is ROM code built onto the transmission controllers microprocessor that COULD be accessed and modified but it would be very difficult due to the fact that it is a 84 pin surface mount and also finding the out-of-production UV erasable ROM version of this micro.

Regardless, I haven't seen an RL computer so I cannot speak for them at this time.

-Matt

 

You're gonna do what? Take a C32 Type II intake manifold and install in on our C35 motor? Sounds interesting. I'd love to see the results...

 

See I always wondered that. Could you just drop in C32 type II cams in the C35 head? Then could it be possible to just install the bigger valve seats and port the C35 head and use type II valves???

 

Yes, the type II cams should fit. Kenso installed type I cams in a 3.5 and verified that they worked, so the type II cams should fit. At the most, you may have to grind a little clearance into the spark plug tube support. It would require the type II valve springs also, which are stiffer.

http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=723138&postcount=747

You could grind the type II intake valves into the head, but is it worth it for the amount of work? They are only 1mm bigger than the RL's. The RL's intake and exhaust valves are identical to the type I. The exhaust valves are the same for all c32/c35 motors - type I and type II.

I am going to be installing the 3.5 in my car with a type II intake manifold and eventually, when I find them, type II cams and valve springs into the 3.5's stock heads and using the 3.5 rocker assemblies. I think this is the most bang-for-the buck method out there without breaking the motor down completely.

-Matt

 

Last summer I bought a C32 type 2 for the exact same reason. My original plans were to adapt the type2 I/M to the type 2 head/3.5 block combo by using aluminum spacers to extend the runners, but eventually decided that it would be cleaner and easier to P&P the 3.5 heads and install the type2 cams and valve train. Then the type 2 I/M would go on with no major modifications. I was also planning on using the type 2 E/M, but now I'm just going to wait for the stromung (sp?) headers that are being developed.

So right now I have a pair of stuffed type2 heads waiting to be parted out to the rl heads, and a cleaned type2 manifold ready to go on. I guess what I really need now is a spare set of 3.5 heads to get worked on so that I can just do a weekend swap.

My first stage will be to swap the I/M and see what type of gains can be had there. Then I will pull the motor and swap the heads out.

I/M for sure this spring, the rest... who knows!

BTW I will be taking pics of the ECU tonight.

 

Has anyone cam doctored the Type I and TYpe II 2ng gen cams and also the early and late RL cams? Where is it that the later RLs have another 10 or 15 hp? The top end right?

I would love to see a chart of all the differences!

 

Has anyone cam doctored the Type I and TYpe II 2ng gen cams and also the early and late RL cams? Where is it that the later RLs have another 10 or 15 hp? The top end right?

I would love to see a chart of all the differences!

Yes, Web Cams makes a grind, but the one they have is tuned to DV8's specifications. You may or may not want to have a custom cam ground to your specifications.

http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=81915&highlight=web+cams

I'm not 100% sure, but I think the later RL's gains were soley from a re-designed muffler and ECU - possibly intake.

-Matt

 

Well, The part numbers have not changed from at least 96 to 2002 on the cams. I can't check 03 or 04 unfortunately.

14100-P5A-000
14200-P5A-000


When did the 225hp figure start? 2002?

 

Here are the pics...

I don't think that this ECU is chippable, but I guess we'll see.

Entire inside

left top quarter

right top quarter

left bottom quarter

right bottom quarter

small chip numbers

large chip number

ECU part#

Hope this helps

BTW there was no AT daughter board on the ECU. Pic #1 is exactly what I was when I removed the cover.

Steve

 

Flash programmable???