Acura Legend Forum banner


988 Views 12 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Rumnarv
Had my thermostat changed and drive belts tightened this morn. I found out the mech forgot to close the bleeder bolt when I started smoking after pulling off the freeway :mad: Luckily theres a shell station a block away from the exit. Popped the hood and there it was, the bleeder bolt spewing like Old Faithful on crack.

Called them up and told the guy what happened. Said I couldn't make it in since I was already at work and I'd be in on Monday to have things checked out.

My question to all of you is, what should I be wary of when they check it out? Worse case scenarios? New rad, thermostat, etc? BHG? :mad:
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As long as the car didn't overheat, you shouldn't have to worry about BHG from this. If you lost much coolant, you may have some air in your cooling system now. I would refill/bleed the system and things should be fine (assuming it never overheated).
It started steaming as i was waiting for a light, when I saw it I put on the blinkers and all but 1 F-tard let me pass freely. The temp guage was consistently moving up as I made my way to the gas station. It got to just about 3/4 of the way up as I shut down the engine.
Venting first..........
After about four hrs of cooling, I took a quick lunch break and made my way to an albertson's about 1/2 a mile from work, engine was still slightly warm before I started up. Got there, temp was fine, drove back, temp still good. Six hours later, as I'm making my way home, city temp looks good. Its about 3 miles to the freeway entrance.
About 20 miles later, exited, ran about 7 or 8 blocks with temp in normal range. Just as I'm coming to a stop of a light, the temp starts going higher. I'm like :eek2: and put on the blinkers and run past the light to a parking lot 1 block a way. Good thing there wasn't anyone close enough to the light to make a turn.

Let it cool about 6-7 mins with hood up, forcing the fans to stay on by removing the key every 2-3 mins. Pretty close to home already, so I put the hood in the 'ajar' position, started it up when the temp was below the 2nd mark and got about 8-10 blocks before temp went up again. Another 5 mins of waiting, then the 2nd hill climb of my home commute and about 5 blocks later, I pulled into the driveway with the temp at 'normal'.

So...... BHG? :( :mad: :( :mad: :( :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:
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Did you ever refill the cooling system? If you lost a lot of coolant through the bleed screw, it's only natural that the car will overheat due to insufficient coolant. You need to refill and bleed the system before you drive it again (assuming that you haven't done this since it wasn't mentioned).
Was filled and bled at the shell station. Checked the levels again before I left work
Have the car towed to that idiot mech at his expense.
Why was the thermostat changed originally? Just as a maintenance item or was there any sort of cooling issue previously? Also, if an aftermarket thermostat was used, that could cause a problem (not opening properly at times). I'm sure you could get the shop that left the bleeder open to have it towed in. Just hope they have some clue what they're doing.
Since the shop left the bleader screw open I would hold them responsible for this. Get it towed back to them. Make them fix it at no charge. If the shop has some decency they will make it right.
sorry for hijacking the thread but i am having the exact same problem. my car just overheated and it went all the way upto the H mark for about 10 seconds. Did i damage something? I shut it off and let it cool down a bit then drove it again. the temp was fine as long as i was driving.
redtegrs91 said:
sorry for hijacking the thread but i am having the exact same problem. my car just overheated and it went all the way upto the H mark for about 10 seconds. Did i damage something? I shut it off and let it cool down a bit then drove it again. the temp was fine as long as i was driving.
Most likely. If you all the way up to the high mark and let it sit there you have probbably done some damage. Get a compression and hydrocarbon test, and read the Overheating thread on the main page.
interesting update... i wasn't sure what the mech meant when he said the old thermostat was cut on sat, but after he did a compression test, bled and road tested today, he said someone probly did it because the car had an overheating prob from before. he came back with the temp guageg hovering at the last white mark.
replaced the new thermostat with the old gutted one and another roadtest showed normal temps throughout.
went through some overheating posts and found the 101 thread that says people do exactly what the mech said; gutting for constant flow.
If your car requires a cut out thermostat to run cool then you have some other problem that has had a band aid put on it. Aonther thing, a compression test will not diagnose a "seeping" head gasket on a Legend. The next few things are ways that I have diagnosed leaking cooling systems and blown head gaskets on a Legend. I am ASE master certified and have been for a couple of years now, so you can trust this information if you want to. I would print this out and take it to your shop.

Pressure test the cooling system for leaks. You may actually need to squeeze the smaller hoses on the throttlebody, oil cooler (if it has one, some do, some don't), fast idle valve, differential cooler, and heater hoses. I have seen them hold pressure and when you squeeze them small pin hole leaks appear.

Have a block test done (the turkey baster looking thing with the blue liquid inside). If it passes then proceed to the next step.

Have a leak down test done. This is what I have done and it was successful on 3 of my customers Legends as well as my 2. Directions are as follows.

1. Remove the radiator cap. Make sure it is full to the top with coolant. If you have an eazy fill funnel that attaches to the radiator fill neck use this half full of coolant. Leave it like this as you are going to look for bubbles. NOTE you don't want to see any. If you do this means you have a BHG.

2. Insert the compression tester spark plug adapter inter the 1st cylinder to be tested.

3. Connect shop air to that adapter hose and fill the cylinder with air. You may need to use a pull handle on the crank pulley bolt to turn crankshaft so the valves seal off the combustion chamber.

4. Once it seals off watch for bubbles as you turn the crankshaft slowly until the valves open again.

5. Repeat this on every cylinder.

If that doesn't show any indication of bubbles then you most likely do not have a blown head gasket.

Another reason a cut out thermostat could be used is if the radiator fans are not working properly. Maybe they are spinning, but worn enough that they are not moving as much air as required to cool. Another thing is to flow check the radiator. The best way I have done this is to remove the radiator and pour water in a radiator hose connection and see if it flows out the other side with the same volume. If not then replace the radiator.

Hope this helps...
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