Acura Legend Forum banner
1 - 20 of 41 Posts
I am on my third oil change with Royal Purple. I run it 4,000 miles between changes. I noticed the car idling a little smoother and quieter on start up. I have decided that I will return to regular oil once I use up the case I bought as I don't think its worth the extra cost.

Even though the oil flows better at low temperatures is proven to last longer than regular oil, I would rather change my oil more frequently and would not be comfortable leaving oil in my long enough to take advantage of the longer life.

If you are racing/reving the car at very high rpm, I think synthetic oil is the only oil to use.
 
I went to a shop that only works on acuras and hondas to get service done on my car. An old japanese guy who had worked for honda and spoke broken english is the owner. He recomended me to use 10w-40 and not synthetic on my legend due to its age. Has anyone else heard of this?
 
I went to a shop that only works on acuras and hondas to get service done on my car. An old japanese guy who had worked for honda and spoke broken english is the owner. He recomended me to use 10w-40 and not synthetic on my legend due to its age. Has anyone else heard of this?
Yes, the reason he said this is old motors sometimes need thicker oils so they wont leak. Synthetic oils are quite thin and will leak out of old seals and slip past worn rings causing smoke.
 
Synthetic oils are quite thin and will leak out of old seals and slip past worn rings causing smoke.
I believe this is pretty much an urban legend. Why? 5W30 is the same weight in synthetic versus dino based oil. Do a google search on "engine oil questions" and you will see this. This comment arises often, especially in classic/muscle car forums where owners want to switch to synthetics. I believe that the oil picks up dirt/sludge that was keeping the old worn out seals tight.

Synthetics may have a better pour rate when extremely cold but they are not thinner or thicker than the same weight dino oil.

Gary
 
You're not going to "feel" any difference. What you will get is tremendously longer oil life. I run mobil 1 for 12k to 13kmi.

Check this out: http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/oil-life.html
Interesting study.
Something of note: even if fully synthetic oil is less prone to breaking down into sludge (it is), your oil filter loses won't last "forever."

Most of these experts (including "Bob the oil guy" -- google him) recommend that the oil FILTER be replaced every 5K miles.

If you are replacing the oil filter ever 5K, it's easier for most people to replace the oil at the same time.

-g
 
I've been running amsoil for my camry starting at 57K. Now it's been over a year at 68K. Just changed filters 3 times. I'd recommend it. But hesitant to run it on my legend with 184K since it's got high miles. My camry seems to run smoother but who knows. I like it because I don't have to change engine oil every other month between two cars.
 
I used to run Valvoline Full Synthetic, but switched over to Royal Purple. Not too much of a difference. But i do think Royal Purple is better.
 
I've been using mobile 1 10w30 regular and 5w30 regular in the winter. I have no desire to put full synthetic because I enjoy getting my oil changed every 5k miles. (I also think that a car with 121k miles doesn't need syn oil) Regular oil works for me :)
 
I am runing on Mobil 1 extrend performace. It just nothing but facy oil. just like you drink expensive liquor and cheap liquor. the the chemical compose are alittle difference.
 
I believe this is pretty much an urban legend. Why? 5W30 is the same weight in synthetic versus dino based oil. Do a google search on "engine oil questions" and you will see this. This comment arises often, especially in classic/muscle car forums where owners want to switch to synthetics. I believe that the oil picks up dirt/sludge that was keeping the old worn out seals tight.

Synthetics may have a better pour rate when extremely cold but they are not thinner or thicker than the same weight dino oil.

Gary
I can vouch that this is true. I switched my G1 to synthetic at 170K. The engine was in pristine condition, no leaks at all. After about 15-20K I had to get the oil pan gasket changed cuz way too much oil was seeping out. Also I noticed that oil was seeping through the valve covers as well. Notice I said SEEP and not LEAK. The amount of loss is very minute. If you do oil chnages every 3mo/5K then you wont even notice the loss since the maximum you'll lose would be 500ml as per my estimations. Switching to Synthetic does have its paybacks though. The engine gets quieter, runs smoother, starts nicely on cold days. One thing I did notice, the tone of the engine sound changes. ON regular oil the engine has a deeper tone, sounds bigger than it is almost like a small V8. On synthetic the you get a higher frequency sound, more refined, sounds almost F1 like at 5000rpm. I think I noticed better fuel economy too. BTW I use PetroCanada brand full synthetic 5w30. As for the G2 I am still thinking if I should switch to Syn or just use a premium branch regular oil.
 
Having worked in a petroleum chemical lab where we did engine oil testing (Lubrizol Corp), I can say that the synthetic oils are superior to dino oils. They are much more resistant to sludging, they are nearly impossible to oxidize under high temperatures, and the lubricity is measurably better.

Now, with that whole urban legend thing about burning/leaking due to synthetics? It's just that: urban legend. It's coincidental that people start losing oil after a while when they switch to synthetics (or they are simply just paying more attention to it due to the switch). My 88 Prelude got nothing but Mobil 1 5w30 from 140,000 until I pulled it at 280,000, and I kept the engine from the rust bucket when I junked it because it still wasn't burning or leaking oil at 280,000 miles.

Likewise, I switched my Legend to Mobil 1 5w30 at 130,000, and it went from burning 3 quarts in 1500 miles to burning less than 1 quart in 3000 miles.

Further: running thicker oil in your older engine is NOT recommended. If you have larger clearances due to wear, things will be making noises! The clearances as well as the oil passages (especially in the pistons) are not designed to pass more viscous oils and you can wind up starving parts of your engine for oil or not allowing all the oil to be wiped from the cylinder walls by the rings because it can't pass fast enough through the oil return holes in the pistons and then you WILL burn oil. Likewise, oil acts not only as a lubricant but also as a coolant. Reducing the oil flow with thicker oils will reduce the cooling effects of the oil and put more of a strain on the cooling system as well as subject the internals of the engine to higher temperatures. Yes, thicker oil will not leak out as fast... but it's NOT the right way to fix the problem, either.

Take it to heart folks. I wouldn't BS ya. :)
 
1 - 20 of 41 Posts