Acura-legend.com banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
SGM / Type F
Joined
·
3,653 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys,

So on my way home from work yesterday, I missed taking out a deer by about 3 inches at 60mph. Going down the freeway at about 80mp and three deer run out in front of me. In order to avoid hitting them I slammed on the brakes (ABS kicked in) and used the e-brake to slow down to 60 and 'drift' around the first deer and avoid slamming the second. It was more luck than skill that saved both my Legend and the deer. Then I noticed that my car was 'straining' to stay at cruising speed and pulling left. Brakes are seizing (but don't feel entirely frozen). I get home (DS rear wheel stinks like hot brakes) and go to a local parking lot to experiment. At low speed there is a rubbing sound from the wheel and a low squeal (similar to pads worn down sound. Applying the e-brake at low speed causes the rubbing sound to get louder. Here's my questions (after searching):

1. Does it sound like the entire LR brake setup is in trouble (caliper, e-brake shoes, possible warped rotor)?
2. Is it easy to distinguish whether it is the caliper v. the e-brake assembly that's sticking (looking for pointers on what to look for before I get under there later today)?
3. I'm going to try a quick fix of re-greasing slide bolts and fiddling with e-brake adjustment for now, but here's the real plan:
a. Rebuild them (paint too!) and get new(er) e-brake assemblies.
b. Rockauto appears to have some rebuild/repair kits, does anyone have a better suggestion for a parts source? acuraoemparts has something called a 'seal kit', is this the same thing?
c. If anyone has used these kits what components do they include? Are the available for the dual pistons up front too?
d. Should I reuse slide bolts or install new ones?

Rebuilding questions:
1. Best way to clean off surface rust from calipers?
2. Advisable to drain all brake fluid and rebuild current calipers, while leaving system empty of fluid OR buy used calipers rebuild and replace so as not to drain and leave system empty for a few days?
3. Stainless lines or keep OEM? I'm looking for a longevity and some performance (but not track levels).
 

·
Dont Catch
Joined
·
4,408 Posts
i dont think the seal kit is avail. anymore... went to 3 different websites and the seal kit is suppose to be #1 in the diagrams.

that would work too..

most likely the reason for a frozen caliper though is because either the slide pins are getting stuck or there is rusting on the pistons.. (on the inside)

when i had the same frozen caliper as you all i did was pop out the piston clean it up with my dremel and sandpaper and i popped it back in... i know its good practice to change the seals but they were in good condition and it was an emergency.

as far as testing out whether or not its the frozen caliper or you're ebrake

take off the caliper and rotate the rotors to see if they're sticking.

check your cables to see if they move freely.


also check the prices on rockauto for calipers... maybe you just might want to replace them with something thats already rebuilt and ready to go.
 

·
SGM / Type F
Joined
·
3,653 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the advice man. I'm going to diagnose the brakes later this afternoon if I can get out of work early enough!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
707 Posts
What bl stated sounds about right, as far as diagnosis procedures. Sam just do a rebuild yourself like you are thinking because the parts seem to still be available, just not in the kit. Def. buy the seal and check your dust boot out, if it's in good condition you might not have to buy that, buy bolts and boots if needed and just get some brake lube(grease) and you're good to go. look it up on the link: HONDA PARTS UNLIMITED... YOUR SOURCE FOR OEM HONDA AND ACURA PARTS AND ACCESSORIES!!!
 

·
SGM / Type F
Joined
·
3,653 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Yea I'm leaning towards rebuilding them myself because of the cost savings and also it will teach me something new on the Legend (have rebuilt Civic brakes before). I've take a half day at work and am going to check it out and then see what parts I need. Thanks for the advice guys!
 

·
SGM / Type F
Joined
·
3,653 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Well it turned out to be the piston and not the slide bolts. The piston was so rusted that is simply wasn't smooth enough to retract once the hydraulic pressure was released. So I took the caliper apart, cleaned the piston off with a 'wire wheel' grinder and media blasted the rest of the caliper. It works as good as new. However, I did notice that there was some small pitting on the piston from the corrosion so eventually I think I would like to get a set calipers and rebuild them so I can not worry about the braking system for a while to come. Slide bolts were cleaned and lubricated as well, although they weren't bad at all. Used all my old seals/boots as they seemed to be in good condition. Like I said this is a temporary fix till I get a decent brake setup on the GS.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
707 Posts
Well it turned out to be the piston and not the slide bolts. The piston was so rusted that is simply wasn't smooth enough to retract once the hydraulic pressure was released. So I took the caliper apart, cleaned the piston off with a 'wire wheel' grinder and media blasted the rest of the caliper. It works as good as new. However, I did notice that there was some small pitting on the piston from the corrosion so eventually I think I would like to get a set calipers and rebuild them so I can not worry about the braking system for a while to come. Slide bolts were cleaned and lubricated as well, although they weren't bad at all. Used all my old seals/boots as they seemed to be in good condition. Like I said this is a temporary fix till I get a decent brake setup on the GS.
Just rebuild the ones you have. The rear caliper pistons #43215-SP0-003 $39.93 each then like $10 for the seal each. Order the parts then do it over a weekend. Why spend time and money getting other calipers just to rebuild them when you could just do it to the ones you have now, just my oppinion though. Good luck
 

·
SGM / Type F
Joined
·
3,653 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Just rebuild the ones you have. The rear caliper pistons #43215-SP0-003 $39.93 each then like $10 for the seal each. Order the parts then do it over a weekend. Why spend time and money getting other calipers just to rebuild them when you could just do it to the ones you have now, just my oppinion though. Good luck
Hmmm, interesting idea. I was going to buy used ones to rebuild so I can do them off the car, all at once, paint (powder coat) them and install them all at the same time. Planning to do SS lines and the CD/slotted rotors too. Only have one brake hose clamp and was trying to avoid keeping hoses clamped overnight. Unless I should just drain the whole system and refill once they're all done? also was going to sell my used ones to recoup some cost.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
707 Posts
Hmmm, interesting idea. I was going to buy used ones to rebuild so I can do them off the car, all at once, paint (powder coat) them and install them all at the same time. Planning to do SS lines and the CD/slotted rotors too. Only have one brake hose clamp and was trying to avoid keeping hoses clamped overnight. Unless I should just drain the whole system and refill once they're all done? also was going to sell my used ones to recoup some cost.
OK, didn"t know you were going to powder coat and change the brake lines. In that case it"s prob better if you do it the way you have planned so you will have less down time.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top