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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok im planing on dropin my car like 1.5 now without a drop and my 17,s my car rubbed on the pass. side rear i had the fenders rolled n there fine now.... i went outside with the level before n check the tire it seams that the tire will rub when the fat part of the tire (where the tread stops n sidewall begins )will hit if my car gets that low over a pothole or sumtin.... ok if i drop it my top of the wheel will sit inn correct? but the question i was asking is that if anynoe has herd of or if it is even possible to get the offset of a rim shaved down to sit in the wheel well more cause i live my rims n dont wanna give em up....thank you ...jon
 

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Sleek And Low
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Many cast rims are made with low offset numbers and then machined down for the particular application. So in some applications it may be ok to remove more material, but with a Legend the offset is extremely high already, so you may not have much material to work with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yea i def. have the room. it almost looks like i have A SPACWER PLATE WELDED ON THE RIM.... WHERE CAN I GRET THESE MACHINED DOWN??? ANYNOE KNOW ANYWHERE IN NY??? THANK YOUS...JON
 

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I'm with both Guy and Bread on this one sort of :) I feel on certain rims it might be okay, but I don't feel you can shave much. If it was determined that you had lots of meat, than I personally would only shave 1-3mm at most. Sometimes less according to the rim. So for me, I have a +46mm offset, and I am tempted to machine off 2 mm to make it a +48. However, if you have a +42 and want to try and make it a +47 or something like that, I personlly wouldn't do it.
 

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One way to determine if you have enough metal to work with is to look at how far the lug nuts tighten down compared to the stock cast rims. For example, my buddy with the Teg has aftermarket rims where the mounting surface is so thick that the lug nuts are just barely flush w/the end of the studs when fully tightened. So there is plenty of room for cutting in this case. But for the most part it is up to the discretion of the machine shop. They know the strengths of metals and will not remove any more than they are willing to be liable for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
your right cbecause when i tighten my lug nutds all the have no sit so far in the rin not flush at all.. alomost to the pint where u cant see them...can anynoe recomend a machine shop in the nyc area or jersey i am located in staten island also i will be taking my rim off and checkin the offset and post it today... thank you..jon
 

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sAnE said:
your right cbecause when i tighten my lug nutds all the have no sit so far in the rin not flush at all.. alomost to the pint where u cant see them...can anynoe recomend a machine shop in the nyc area or jersey i am located in staten island also i will be taking my rim off and checkin the offset and post it today... thank you..jon
As a rule of thumb I picked up when working in a machine shop, you need at least 3/4 the width of the bolt in threads to get a good grip and avoid stripping the threads. So if the bolt is 1" thick, then you need to thread the nut 3/4" down the end of it to be safe.

So Jon, you're probably better off machining down the rims in two ways; To gain more fender clearance, and to have the lug-nuts get good contact on the wheel lugs. My only caution is with chrome rims. Cutting the chrome off the mounting face could result in rust. Be certain to paint the freshly machined face before re-mounting your rims to protect them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
THANKS JASON ACTUALLY THAt makes a ton of sense. beciase when i first got them i herd a bad thumpin noise so im like ***.. and i pulled over n my lugs were loos e they actually intightened..it was horrific i could of been in big trouble but yea thats def my problem too so along with the drop problem i will also be doing that to prevent that form happening.. do you know wat kind of shop i wolud have to go to so that? thanx.. jon..
 

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I'm not really sure what kind of industry you have over in NY. I live in Seattle where there are plenty of shops due to Boeing and such. Basically any shop with a lathe can do the job if they have time. Some people will charge much more than others depending on how busy they are and what type of equipment they are running. I would get two or three quotes before deciding. Maybe start with local wheel and custom shops to see if they know of anybody that does wheel modifications specifically. Those types of shops will have the equipment set up already and can probably offer you better advice and pricing. Most large shops do production work and don't like to deal with non-corporate bids. So look for a smaller shop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ok wow i just pulled the rim and here are these numbers....
a 426
7.5j x 17h2
et 35

i am goin to assume that is a 35 offset since my rims are like level with the outside fender... i duno wat do .. wat is the best offset because i am dropin my car like2 inches n the ront n 1.75 in the rear and i def want to keep these rims.. what to do... and wat offset should i get them down to without any problems..thanks.....

jon
 

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I've got 18x7.5" rims w/a +42 offset. Just barely clears the rear fender and doesn't stick out of the front either. Only rubs up there when turning and going over a bump. But I also run a 215 tire, not a 225. Thats the only way to avoid tire-rubbing.

But each rim is built differently. width of the rim is measured from the inside where the tire ribbing sits in the groove. So the thickness beyond that varies from style to style. A cast rim is generally thicker in this area than a cold-rolled steel two-piece rim (racing style). So these offsets won't work for everybody, but try to bring it to a +40 or +42 if possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
yea a +42 with a 215 45 17 will be good with the drop?? i wanna do like 2 in the fron 1.75 in the rear... and also they are chrome there 2 piece rims i duno if that makes a difference or not.. thanks for the info!!!! ...............jon
 
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