Take it to another place and have them see what they think the problem is, the new one could be blown, or never put on right to begin with.
sigh...
My legend has ISSUES...
I picked it up from the shop today after a weeklong visit to repair a BHG. While driving it home the check engine light comes on. I also notice that it is idling hard...every few seconds it will shake a bit. I also notice this happens when I begin accelerating, and when coming to a stop. When accelerating, there is white smoke from the exhaust too.
When we arrive home I notice that it is overheating!!! I called the shop and tell him I am bringing the car back...it overheats twice on the way to the shop, and we finally leave it at a gas station. This afternoon the mechanic calls me and said I'll have to wait until thursday to find out why the check engine light is still on. He said the overheating was either the thermostat or radiator. He replaced the thermostat, for free, and said after he drove it, the temp gauge was not rising even to the halfway point. He said that the smoke is from either coolant (I think), or oil.
Here is what throws me for a loop...the hard idling is MOST LIKELY a cyclinder not firing. Does this have anything to do with the BHG repair?? The car NEVER did this before going to the shop. Also, shouldn't I worry that the new head gasket could now be blown? The mechanic said that it would not be blown from overheating once or twice, but I have read differently on this forum. I have a 30 day warranty on the labor. What do you guys think??
I picked it up from the shop today after a weeklong visit to repair a BHG. While driving it home the check engine light comes on. I also notice that it is idling hard...every few seconds it will shake a bit. I also notice this happens when I begin accelerating, and when coming to a stop. When accelerating, there is white smoke from the exhaust too.
When we arrive home I notice that it is overheating!!! I called the shop and tell him I am bringing the car back...it overheats twice on the way to the shop, and we finally leave it at a gas station. This afternoon the mechanic calls me and said I'll have to wait until thursday to find out why the check engine light is still on. He said the overheating was either the thermostat or radiator. He replaced the thermostat, for free, and said after he drove it, the temp gauge was not rising even to the halfway point. He said that the smoke is from either coolant (I think), or oil.
Here is what throws me for a loop...the hard idling is MOST LIKELY a cyclinder not firing. Does this have anything to do with the BHG repair?? The car NEVER did this before going to the shop. Also, shouldn't I worry that the new head gasket could now be blown? The mechanic said that it would not be blown from overheating once or twice, but I have read differently on this forum. I have a 30 day warranty on the labor. What do you guys think??
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Was the check engine light fixed or is it still on while the car misfires?
My car misfires just as you described with the light shaking every few secs. But I also have the EGR trouble code which is most likely the problem.
My car misfires just as you described with the light shaking every few secs. But I also have the EGR trouble code which is most likely the problem.
Replace the radiator if it has not been replaced in the last 100k miles( leaking water pump or a clogged radiator is the #1 killer of these cars. I Know, been there done that { had both}).LacyTheLegend said:My legend has ISSUES...
I picked it up from the shop today after a weeklong visit to repair a BHG. While driving it home the check engine light comes on. I also notice that it is idling hard...every few seconds it will shake a bit. I also notice this happens when I begin accelerating, and when coming to a stop. When accelerating, there is white smoke from the exhaust too.
When we arrive home I notice that it is overheating!!! I called the shop and tell him I am bringing the car back...it overheats twice on the way to the shop, and we finally leave it at a gas station. This afternoon the mechanic calls me and said I'll have to wait until thursday to find out why the check engine light is still on. He said the overheating was either the thermostat or radiator. He replaced the thermostat, for free, and said after he drove it, the temp gauge was not rising even to the halfway point. He said that the smoke is from either coolant (I think), or oil.
Here is what throws me for a loop...the hard idling is MOST LIKELY a cyclinder not firing. Does this have anything to do with the BHG repair?? The car NEVER did this before going to the shop. Also, shouldn't I worry that the new head gasket could now be blown? The mechanic said that it would not be blown from overheating once or twice, but I have read differently on this forum. I have a 30 day warranty on the labor. What do you guys think??
the radiator may be what caused you to blow the head gasket in the first place.
as for the running issue. I'm pretty sure that you spent a good deal of money on the BHG. If it is not running right take it back.
and last but not least take a car knowledgable guy with you. Some mechanics take advantage of women. sad but true.
just keep your cool when dealing with them. remember more flies with honey.
if they don't make good. thats when you tell them to Go Fk Yourselves!! and take your business somewhere else.
That sucks. Take it back and make them do it right.
The car begins misfiring almost right away...after I drive a mile or so the check engine light will come on. It has done this for a few months though. I just assumed it was the BHG, but like I said, I have to wait until thursday if I want to take it back to the same mechanic. I'm not too worried about this just because it could be so many different minor problems that may have co-existed with the BHG.DAVID7700 said:Was the check engine light fixed or is it still on while the car misfires?
The radiator was replaced less than a year ago. The mechanic said the BHG causes the radiator to eventually go bad??? and my room mate said it was hissing today after overheating. The mechanic later credited the overheating to the thermostat rather than the radiator. I hope this fixes the problem rather than another new radiator!robbanks111 said:Replace the radiator if it has not been replaced in the last 100k miles( a clogged radiator is the #1 killer of these cars. I Know, been there done that).
the radiator may be what caused you to blowthe head gasket in the first place.
as for the running issue. I'm pretty sure that you spent a good deal of money on the BHG. If it is not running right take it back.
and last but not least take a car knowledgable guy with you. Some mechanics take advantage of women. sad but true.
just keep your cool when dealing with them. remember more flies with honey.
if they don't make good. thats when you tell them to Go Fk Yourselves!! and take your business somewhere else.
I did pay a lot for the BHG job, this being why I am very concerned about the cyclinder misfiring, and if it has ANY connection to the HG. Like I said before, this was a non issue prior to having the BHG repaired last week, and has just now surfaced since picking the car up today.
I don't think they even know what is wrong!stir_fry_boy said:That sucks. Take it back and make them do it right.
If its just misfiring its not a BHG
I didn't think it was a BHG-unless it happened today when the car overheated. I am wondering if the HG has anything to do with the misfiring cyclinder since the problem began after the shop had my car.
The misfire is odd. maybe a dead coil pack. Maybe he didn't hook something up right. Now do you see why I almost begged you to go to a honda/acura specialist.
Later!
Lee
Later!
Lee
First, make sure the problems you are having after the repair are all documented on paper(workorder). Don't let them tell you "we don't need to write up a new workorder".
If it's not documented they can stall you for 30 days and then say your warranty is up.
Was it misfiring before you had it repaired?
If so they should have, at the very least, done a compression test to make sure you had good compression on all cylinders. If one cylinder had low compression they would know that more serious problems could exist. Like a craked cylinder, cracked head or burnt valve. It the engine gets too hot, too many times these other problems will occur. If for some reason(god forbid) they have to disassemble the engine to repair something they "didnt know" was bad, the labor is their problem, not yours.
When making the BHG repair allmost everything is disconnected electrically so hopefully they just failed to reconnect something. They should double check the injector connectors and coil pack connectors. It could also be a bad coil pack or spark plug(easyfix).
They should "check the codes" for the check engine light and it will tell them what is causing it to come on.
Good luck
If it's not documented they can stall you for 30 days and then say your warranty is up.
Was it misfiring before you had it repaired?
If so they should have, at the very least, done a compression test to make sure you had good compression on all cylinders. If one cylinder had low compression they would know that more serious problems could exist. Like a craked cylinder, cracked head or burnt valve. It the engine gets too hot, too many times these other problems will occur. If for some reason(god forbid) they have to disassemble the engine to repair something they "didnt know" was bad, the labor is their problem, not yours.
When making the BHG repair allmost everything is disconnected electrically so hopefully they just failed to reconnect something. They should double check the injector connectors and coil pack connectors. It could also be a bad coil pack or spark plug(easyfix).
They should "check the codes" for the check engine light and it will tell them what is causing it to come on.
Good luck
My car also shakes for a while and the trouble code 12 comes up after driving for awhile. After it comes on it is noticebly worse however. You can check the # by sticking a paper clip in some plug under the passenger side. I doubt my problem is related to the head gasket because I have a newer engine. Maybe the water pump however... I wish i could help more but pinpointing a problem like rough running is hard, you have to throw the parts at it until the Legend is satisfied. :bowdown:
I can assure you you're car is not shaking because of the water pump. Water pump???
I did the timing belt on mine . I don't think there is a crank sensor. all the info to the icu comes from the drivers side cam. I could be wrong.LS92Sedan said:is it possible he got something wrong with the crank sensor? If I remember right the crank sensor is the coil trigger, could also be a dead coil, maybe even a dead plug. could even possibly be a fouled injector or a bad injector seal, I would def take the car back and make the mechanic fix it ASAP, you just paid all that $ to have it fixed, not get it back and have more issues. you know, now that I think of it, it could even be a knock sensor that is jazzed, cuz that will retard the crap out of your timing, but I think that is unlikely cuz if I remember right the knock sesnor would throw the ecu into limp mode.
You are right and wrong, but mostly right. The sensor is on the driver 
side. It is called the crank angle sensor????? Even though it's on the cam.
side. It is called the crank angle sensor????? Even though it's on the cam.the cam sensor isn't on the passenger side. it's on the drivers side. it is the one that bleeds all that pookie out of it over time.Jetdoc said:You are right and wrong, but mostly right. The sensor on the passenger cam is called the crank angle sensor????? Even though it's on the cam.
Duh!!!! I knew that That's what I get for being left handed. I will edit my post. thanks.
That's what I get for being left handed. I will edit my post. thanks.
Probably is a dead coil pack. I'll find out thursday still.
Last night the car overheated again, but it is acting a bit strange! The temp gauge doesn't red line (stays between the top 2 white lines on the dash). Also, the car does not feel hot at all. The headers get warm. I noticed that the fans did not come on, but the weather was below freezing last night. I let it cool down for a good hour, and tried to drive it home. Before I could get out of the parking lot, the temp was at the halfway point, and another 1 1/2 minutes later the gauge was reading right below the top white line. headers were warm, fans not on, radiator was not hissing. I felt like I could have driven it home, but I had such a ways to go that I just left it.
Last night the car overheated again, but it is acting a bit strange! The temp gauge doesn't red line (stays between the top 2 white lines on the dash). Also, the car does not feel hot at all. The headers get warm. I noticed that the fans did not come on, but the weather was below freezing last night. I let it cool down for a good hour, and tried to drive it home. Before I could get out of the parking lot, the temp was at the halfway point, and another 1 1/2 minutes later the gauge was reading right below the top white line. headers were warm, fans not on, radiator was not hissing. I felt like I could have driven it home, but I had such a ways to go that I just left it.
Good Idea! To prevent the head gasket from going, please, PUH-lleasse dont drive with a hot Acura! hot would be above the 1/2 way mark. This does no good and by driving with a acura between 1/2 way and the upper mark I ruined my engine! Don't drive it unless you want to risk a hefty over >1000$ repair!
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