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from what i have been hering the slotted rotors make your pads wear out ALOT faster than normal. It makes sence but i wana get some really bad so some people tell me what yall think. THANKS ALOT
--cody
--cody
Slotted rottors no good?
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30 Posts
Reasonable to assume that the pads would wear faster - but this shouldn't be a significant difference. The only reason to go with slotted rotors is because they look better. You won't notice any substantial change in braking performance from just switching to drilled or slotted rotors.
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238 Posts
I beg to differ. You WILL notice a substantial difference in your brake BITE and much less brake fade(if any).pzengilowski said:
It is not just for looks at all. Im talking specifically to the Brembo Cross Drilled and Sloted rotors with Axxis pads.
Im not sure why you didnt notice a difference.
Perhaps you didnt break them in properly. Because it is imperative that you break them in SLOWLY. If you dont use patience during this time it will be worthless.
Many people will tell you they are worth EVERY dime
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2,663 Posts
I defiently have to agree with SeaSickLegend. I have Brembo Crossdrilled rotors on stock pads and notice a hell of a difference. Especially at high speeds. They grab really well and even when I have a full load of people in emergency situations where my old brakes would have faded these did not and once you cause enough heat to make stock rotors fade, they warp. I will never again put standard, stock rotors on my Legend again.
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9,375 Posts
ditto!
There is a signifigant difference in braking...especially reduced to nil brake fade, decreased stopping distances, repeatedly, and the ability to stop on a nickel....maybe you hurt your rotors (bad break-in period) or didn't get the correct pads..YOU CANNOT use OEM pads with these rotors....Axxis or AEM (AEM's are better)
There is a signifigant difference in braking...especially reduced to nil brake fade, decreased stopping distances, repeatedly, and the ability to stop on a nickel....maybe you hurt your rotors (bad break-in period) or didn't get the correct pads..YOU CANNOT use OEM pads with these rotors....Axxis or AEM (AEM's are better)
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Guys,
The principle behind slotting and cross drilling rotors is to allow for the venting of gasses that build up under extreme braking conditions that virtually none of us see in daily driving. Even in a panic stop, there simply isn't the buildup of gasses that this venting is designed to provide.
I do not doubt that you folks feel that braking performance is better since you'put your new rotors on. However, this is more likely the result of better materials in the rotors and upgraded pads. It has virtually nothing to do with drilling or slotting.
It also has to do with the fact that you've just put new rotors and pads on. So, of course braking performance is enhanced. But this would be true even if you just put on new stock rotors and pads - they'd provide better bite and stopping power than the ones you replaced.
So, I do not doubt that your new brakes are all that you say they are - it's just got little or nothing to do with slotting and drilling. Which, as I said at the start of this you should only do for the looks. In some cases, slotting/drilling if not done correctly not only causes premature pad wear, but can also reult in premature rotor failure due to stress cracks.
The principle behind slotting and cross drilling rotors is to allow for the venting of gasses that build up under extreme braking conditions that virtually none of us see in daily driving. Even in a panic stop, there simply isn't the buildup of gasses that this venting is designed to provide.
I do not doubt that you folks feel that braking performance is better since you'put your new rotors on. However, this is more likely the result of better materials in the rotors and upgraded pads. It has virtually nothing to do with drilling or slotting.
It also has to do with the fact that you've just put new rotors and pads on. So, of course braking performance is enhanced. But this would be true even if you just put on new stock rotors and pads - they'd provide better bite and stopping power than the ones you replaced.
So, I do not doubt that your new brakes are all that you say they are - it's just got little or nothing to do with slotting and drilling. Which, as I said at the start of this you should only do for the looks. In some cases, slotting/drilling if not done correctly not only causes premature pad wear, but can also reult in premature rotor failure due to stress cracks.
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I've noticed a vast improvement in braking from like 130mph to 60 where there is no fade and no warpage of rotors. I've had my stock rotors glowing red and the end result is loss of brakes and destroyed rotors. My cross-drilled brembos do not experience this and I've gotten them so hot that when stopped you can smell them and see smoke wafting up from the pads. I've have done some extremely hard autocross driving on them and as I mentioned before there is a vast improvement. For everday driving if you drive normally then I would say stock rotors are fine but if you do any type of.... "spirited" driving, you'll want some kind of rotor/pad upgrade. My next thoughts on brake upgrades is somehow manipulating that metal splash guard to capture air for cooling my brakes.
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9,375 Posts
exactly to what Nick said...I have replaced my stock rotors TWICE in the first two years of ownership....and that was with OEM rotors and pads...not cheap at all.
Now, I have went 3 times as long on my upgraded rotors and pads..and I do very spirited driving..and yes, TRY to do 3 consecutive runs in your LEgend from 100+mph to 0 without fade.....NOT!
I can vouch for this, I live in what? HOTLANTA!! lol
You must drive the speed limit or get run the hell over....
PLUS, again, I have autocrosssed with stock and drilled...there is no comparison...when your brkaes are fading from the built up heat and gasses, (NEW OEM) you are toast...its either hit the gas or hit the cones buddy! Drilled....its like a tiger or Lion biting the hell out of the rotor carcass.. you are stopping!! YUUUUUUUUUWAAAAAAAY!!
lol
I know what you mean, but I have raced on mine, and would NEVER go back
Now, I have went 3 times as long on my upgraded rotors and pads..and I do very spirited driving..and yes, TRY to do 3 consecutive runs in your LEgend from 100+mph to 0 without fade.....NOT!
I can vouch for this, I live in what? HOTLANTA!! lol
You must drive the speed limit or get run the hell over....
PLUS, again, I have autocrosssed with stock and drilled...there is no comparison...when your brkaes are fading from the built up heat and gasses, (NEW OEM) you are toast...its either hit the gas or hit the cones buddy! Drilled....its like a tiger or Lion biting the hell out of the rotor carcass.. you are stopping!! YUUUUUUUUUWAAAAAAAY!!
lol
I know what you mean, but I have raced on mine, and would NEVER go back
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238 Posts
Sorry dude......
, Then yes, you may as well stick with your OEM rotors/pads unless you just want the look. But if you do encounter heavy braking in your driving, then you will feel a HUGE difference.
If you are just doing "Daily driving" and not driving with "enthusiasm"pzengilowski said:
, Then yes, you may as well stick with your OEM rotors/pads unless you just want the look. But if you do encounter heavy braking in your driving, then you will feel a HUGE difference.The OEM pads and rotors will not have as much bite and will "Fade" under heavy braking, Even when new. The OEM pads and rotors "settle in" after just about 2 days of normal driving, Unlike the Brembo's where you will not even feel the difference untill they are broken in(300-500 Miles).pzengilowski said:
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*handing Pz and katonk the keys*
....sure...drive my car about 10 laps on OLD 8-9 month old pads and two year old drilled rotors, then get in yours with fresh new pads and rotors and see the difference
Fellas...
I have TWO G2's
I have STOCK on one
I have DRILLED on the other.
I CANNOT stop in the same distance in my sedan that I CAN in MY COUPE.
Oh, to make it fair, I had my sedan's brakes done in November 2001 (PROFESSIONALLY...read ASE mechanic) while getting other major work done.
Last time the coupes were done was in Feb 2000 - new brakes (AEM and drilled rotors)
Now....
I JUST did my brakes two weeks ago at Kevon's house, after RACING SCCA, very spirited driving, AND frequent high speed runs from here to MEmphis, TN, JAcksonville, FL, All over the Tennessee mountains....AND, don't 4get Georgia is very mountainous in itself...with NO fade, after two years!!
I mean, come on.
Unless you actually can compare them back to back, you can say what you want.
I have proof.
no offense guys...I don't want to seem anal here, but I don't like driving the sedan for that one reason....I KNOW I can stop with confidence in my coupe where as in the sedan...you can stop, but don't wait til the last minute. don't get me wron, they are ADEQUATE, but not for a leadfoot, or for INSTANT braking.
One cannot stop in the same distance in my sedan that my coupe can....coupe has more stuff on it too....so work with me here, sedan is COMPLETELY STOCK
Nuff said
Friends?
....sure...drive my car about 10 laps on OLD 8-9 month old pads and two year old drilled rotors, then get in yours with fresh new pads and rotors and see the difference
Fellas...
I have TWO G2's
I have STOCK on one
I have DRILLED on the other.
I CANNOT stop in the same distance in my sedan that I CAN in MY COUPE.
Oh, to make it fair, I had my sedan's brakes done in November 2001 (PROFESSIONALLY...read ASE mechanic) while getting other major work done.
Last time the coupes were done was in Feb 2000 - new brakes (AEM and drilled rotors)
Now....
I JUST did my brakes two weeks ago at Kevon's house, after RACING SCCA, very spirited driving, AND frequent high speed runs from here to MEmphis, TN, JAcksonville, FL, All over the Tennessee mountains....AND, don't 4get Georgia is very mountainous in itself...with NO fade, after two years!!
I mean, come on.
Unless you actually can compare them back to back, you can say what you want.
I have proof.
no offense guys...I don't want to seem anal here, but I don't like driving the sedan for that one reason....I KNOW I can stop with confidence in my coupe where as in the sedan...you can stop, but don't wait til the last minute. don't get me wron, they are ADEQUATE, but not for a leadfoot, or for INSTANT braking.
One cannot stop in the same distance in my sedan that my coupe can....coupe has more stuff on it too....so work with me here, sedan is COMPLETELY STOCK
Nuff said
Friends?
LeGeNdZ_4_LiFe...
Do you have the same preformance pads on your sedan? If not, then I'm not convinced. Here's my reasoning...
Friction is the normal force times the the coefficient of friction. The caliper hasn't been changed, so we can safely assume the normal force to be a constant. The coefficient of friction is determined by the brake pad.
So, if the two pads are different, you will certainly have different friction forces.
Now, the gases generated during braking may cause the pads to lose contact with the disc. Thus, the reason for the slots. Under racing conditions, slotted/cross-drilled rotors may present an advantage. But under normal street driving (which is what I thought we were discussing) the chances of stressing your brakes in the same manner as on a race course is unlikely. The severity of the braking load and the cyclic loading are infinitely greater in racing.
My intention isn't to disprove your experience. Far from it since I have not subjected my Legend to racing as you have. From my experience (autocrossing other cars) I can say that brake fade under racing conditions happens. But I have never experienced sudden or severe break fade on the street.
Do you have the same preformance pads on your sedan? If not, then I'm not convinced. Here's my reasoning...
Friction is the normal force times the the coefficient of friction. The caliper hasn't been changed, so we can safely assume the normal force to be a constant. The coefficient of friction is determined by the brake pad.
So, if the two pads are different, you will certainly have different friction forces.
Now, the gases generated during braking may cause the pads to lose contact with the disc. Thus, the reason for the slots. Under racing conditions, slotted/cross-drilled rotors may present an advantage. But under normal street driving (which is what I thought we were discussing) the chances of stressing your brakes in the same manner as on a race course is unlikely. The severity of the braking load and the cyclic loading are infinitely greater in racing.
My intention isn't to disprove your experience. Far from it since I have not subjected my Legend to racing as you have. From my experience (autocrossing other cars) I can say that brake fade under racing conditions happens. But I have never experienced sudden or severe break fade on the street.
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9,375 Posts
ANd help prevent accidents....claus44 said:well, since you are focusing on street then let's just talk about street driving. When it rains, the slotted/X-drilled rotors also helps to expel water from the rotor surface. Enough said?
and yes, I do have similar pads on both vehicles.
ITs all good Katok..just want the world to know, this is a GOOD mod...not for looks only...I can give a damn about how they look in this case
But that is what the forum is for...to make people think, and to spread knowledge...
you are cool in my book
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There is a significant braking advantage especially under high heat conditions. Since the X-Drilled or Slotted or X-Drilled&Slotted rotors are not BIG BRAKE UPGRADES for our Legends, it won't improve your mild braking response (rotors are cold), but once it heats up, the added holes, the added slots in addition to the already vented front rotor will decrease the chances of warping and allow the pads to have less heat wear.pzengilowski said:
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310 Posts
pzengilowski, your info is skewed
If you don't plan on getting new rotors and drive conservatively then your fine w/ what you have. However if you do decide whether to get drilled/slotted brembos, or just plain OEM, get the D/S Brembos hands down. OEM rotors are crap and expensive from the dealer. The Brembos offered by Mr Wood or Elvis are about $55/each while the crappy stock rotors will charge you about close to $100/each. The Brembos are a better investment than you can possibly imagine performance wise and also in the looks dept if you have open view thru the wheels.
I originally upgrade w/ Powerslots rotors in the front for about $85/each and they had fairly better braking compared to the OEM rotors plus I was tired of looking at my rusty looking OEM rotors. The wheels felt cooler than when I had the OEM rotors. Even after giving a good break in tho, several months later it started to warp for no apparent reason. Now I got the CD/Slt Brembos in and they have amazing grip and my 17" alloy wheels feels even cooler to the touch after a hard summer driving that I do. No fading whatsoever and I have an even shorter 60-0 emergency braking distance than I had w/ the Powerslots, honest to god. It also helps to have nice tires too for the grip w/ the road b/c of the car's momentum. The stock Michelin's MXV4 tends to slide alot, so I got some Dunlop SP9000 as an additional insurance investment for the superb wet/dry traction.
If you don't plan on getting new rotors and drive conservatively then your fine w/ what you have. However if you do decide whether to get drilled/slotted brembos, or just plain OEM, get the D/S Brembos hands down. OEM rotors are crap and expensive from the dealer. The Brembos offered by Mr Wood or Elvis are about $55/each while the crappy stock rotors will charge you about close to $100/each. The Brembos are a better investment than you can possibly imagine performance wise and also in the looks dept if you have open view thru the wheels.
I originally upgrade w/ Powerslots rotors in the front for about $85/each and they had fairly better braking compared to the OEM rotors plus I was tired of looking at my rusty looking OEM rotors. The wheels felt cooler than when I had the OEM rotors. Even after giving a good break in tho, several months later it started to warp for no apparent reason. Now I got the CD/Slt Brembos in and they have amazing grip and my 17" alloy wheels feels even cooler to the touch after a hard summer driving that I do. No fading whatsoever and I have an even shorter 60-0 emergency braking distance than I had w/ the Powerslots, honest to god. It also helps to have nice tires too for the grip w/ the road b/c of the car's momentum. The stock Michelin's MXV4 tends to slide alot, so I got some Dunlop SP9000 as an additional insurance investment for the superb wet/dry traction.
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