[infinite]

And it was a complete fu cking disaster.

I painted them the first time, but the paint was running down the curved part of the tail light and there were holes, or craters rather, in various parts of the paint. It seems in certain parts the paint didn't hold. It truly looked like crap.

So, I attempted to strip the paint off. However, the stripper left behind this goop that was difficult to remove, and it seemed the stripper wasn't strong enough. So, I got some stronger stripper and put that on the tail light. This was my biggest mistake as the stripper ate the plastic on the light.

So, I now have two horrible looking tail lights with plastic eaten away and a nasty white film in certain parts, and hardened goop in other parts.

Well, I have learned my lesson. Never again will I touch my light housing for any sort of project. The stock look is just fine.

Suffice it to say, I am now looking for some G2 sedan tail light housing. Anybody have any for sale?

If any of you guys take up this project, be very careful.

 

[Reno5658]

it must have dripped because it wasn't a room temperature. Go check ebay for some tailights...i've seen some run around $20

 

[502 MotorSports]

It is best to do this in the sunlight, and at an angle if possible

 

[RICDOGG]

you can still save your taillights. strip the rest of the 'goop' off...so your left with a hazy taillight, &clearcoat the whole light. it will come back to the original gloss..if not even be shinier.

 

[infinite]

you can still save your taillights. strip the rest of the 'goop' off...so your left with a hazy taillight, &clearcoat the whole light. it will come back to the original gloss..if not even be shinier.

The taillight plastic housing has been slightly eaten away by the paint stripper, and there is a nasty white layer in some areas of the light that won't come off. The lights housing are DOA and need to be replaced. They still work, but look like serious crap. They can't be saved.

I did the painting at room temperature, actually I did the painting inside. I don't understand why the first job went so bad. I can understand the mild running of the paint I had, but the craters and holes in the paint I can't understand. About 20% of the total paint job actually looked smooth, the rest of the surface looked cratered with pock marks. It was very strange.

 

[502 MotorSports]

it is best to do it at warmer than room temperature.
Sorry to hear that, Justin....did you use Testor's paint?

The key is to use thin coats. It is best to do it while its hot outside. The pocks develop from overspray in an area, and its best to only spray the area needing paint..not the entire lights.

 

[LEGENDarith]

junkyards have them for sure.

 

[LiasLegend]

I tried painting my tail lights a long time ago and like you I didn't have a lot of success. Except I used rubbing alcohol to remove the paint... that's what Jim Trinh recommended in his tutorial.

Anyway... check out the For Sale/Wanted section... there's a sticky from Cristalen... she provides a contact who specializes in Legend parts.

 

[rquest77]

im thinkin of painting my tails red over the orange part (as many of you have done), what exact brand of paint and what exact color should i purchase and what exact brand of clear coat, etc, should i get to ensure i get the best stuff for the job?

 

[Roger]

cant u just buff them like you buff your headlights???

 

[Sh0ck3d]

I had a similar problem...

Infinite,

I had a similar problem when I tried to tint my taillights black. Everything was going fine until about the 3rd coat, when all these little holes started to form and the paint ran in a couple places. This is about 60% from spraying too closely, and about 39% from not letting the paint dry enough between coats.

When painting taillights:

1. KEEEEEEP MINIMUM DISTANCE. I had to redo mine 3 times, I KNOW WHAT CAUSES THE POCKS AND DRIPS.

2. Keep the can moving. Simple fast and easy vertical strokes are best, but keep the can moving horizontally the whole time.

3. Use thin coats, and let it dry PLENTLY between coats. I suggest 1.5x the can suggestion if you are going to go with many coats.

----------------------------
How do you fix your situation? I had a VERY similar problem with not being able to get the paint off after my 2nd screwup... (My first screwup I wrecked it soon enough to alchohol the paint off). I tried EVERYTHING on the tint to get it off, including: Nail polish remover, alchohol, paint thinner, and a type of wood varnish remover/stripper. I ended up putting the very thick paste like wood varnish remover and and letting it sit a little while. This stuff is SERIOUS. Still took a LOT of doing and I got most of the paint off. Next I went to work sanding the hell out of my tails. After this is got a buffer and some fine sandpaper and wetsanded and buffed/polished my tailights. Needless to say this ate up an entire day, and after polishing my taillights I did NOT attempt to repaint them for a couple months (for obvious reasons - )

I think that if you were to sand the hell out of your taillights after using some sort of powerful paint remover that you would be OK. You could probably get it all the way done in a single day... If you buff them well with a plastic polish they will even get back alot of the OEM shine, so you can apply wax and leave them stock if you want.

I suggest using RED "stained glass" paint on your tails, because I had NO dripping/hole problems from the get-go, and if you put 3 good coats your signals will light up RED (not orange). Its not too hard, and it will not take much to do the job (less than 1/2 a a 6oz can for 2 coats on the turn signal and 1 all the way over)...

GOOD LUCK!

-Sh0ck3d

P.S. Geezus did I write enough? Must be all the dayquil...

 

[pYmpdaddi]

Infinite,

I am deeply sorry for what you have gone through. I wish you would have PMed me prior to doing this. I know you feel your existing taillights are of no use to you, but they may be a prime candidate for testing. Let me give you a few tips that may help in the event you attempt this again. I will simply explain how I did my taillights a month ago.

First of all let's discuss the paint itself. I used mostly clearcoat mixture and about 5% of the paint itself. The clearcoat and clearcoat activator are a specific proportion as stated on the can of the clearcoat. BTW I bought mine at a NAPA auto parts store. They told me what I was doing would never work, so I HAD to prove them wrong . NAPA auto also sells a PREVAL can I used for spraying the clearcoat and paint. Once I had the clearcoat mixed (Small amount for testing) I dropped in a FEW drops [5%] of my paint (In my case YR-503M Rosewood Brown). First I tested this on my old bumper lense so I could see the final outcome. Once I determined that this would be "TIGHT!!!" I decided to give it a go on my tails. I did BOTH tails at the same time to ensure evenness with JUST THE CLEARCOAT. After about 15 minutes I dropped in the paint and began my first coat. I sprayed about a foot away and realized I was getting potts and craters, so I got closer and intentionally did an overspray which gave me the best results. Two more coats later I had a full clean and smooth look going waiting about 10 to 15 minutes between each spraying. You can't wait too long, because the clearcoat wil congeal and become solid. Let it all dry for a few hours and replace your taillight assemblies. You should be good to go. Since your tails are shot, you don't have anything to loose. Hit me up on my email if you have any questions. Holla!!!

 

[infinite]

Thank you all for your help. I guess I was just too close with the paint can when painting and I didn't keep the paint moving. Man what a screw up job.

Shocked, I don't know that sanding my taillights would work. Like I said, the stripper ate the plastic up. You said you used wood stripper which sounds like pretty harsh stuff. I am surprised you didn't get the same results as I did in terms of the stripper eating up the plastic.

Pymp, I read your story about how you painted your taillights in the other thread and about how nobody should say you can't do something because you will prove them wrong. I have a friend who is just like you and if you say he can't do it, he sure as sh!t does it. Anyway, I definitely think one of my problems was that I was too close with the paint and didn't let it dry enough in between coats, although there was usually at least 15 minutes between coats.

Leon, I tired looking for those red/clear tails but I couldn't find them. I may just end up getting some stock tails. I don't know yet.

Again, thanks everyone.

 

[LPB]

Sorry to hear of your dilemma. My guess is that the "fish eyes" (craters) was due to contaminants (esp. silicone/wax) on the lens. The paint run was due to excessive amt without enough dry time in between. Alas, you used a paint stripper on the lens and you are correct; they are now DOA. Suggest you use www.car-part.com to locate replacements. I just made a rapid check and they are available for approx. $175 - $225 each. Might be less, I didn't scroll down to the end. New OEM assys retail for around $410 each. You need the 1994-95 units.

 

[Moloukhya]

Problems could also arise from not properly cleaning the tail lights first. When I painted my tails on my first legend I cleaned the area i was going to paint really well, then dried it up and started painting it with testors paint as directed above. Infinite, if i were you i'd do as pympdaddi said and use your tail lights to test out new methods. Maybe you can still save em, I know if i was in your shoes i'd do all i could before i gave up and ordered a new set. Good luck! if you need help u can PM me.

 

[Mckenzie93]

Hey Infinite, That sux man...

But I was searching EBAY and there is a taillight for the passenger side from a 91 sedan, and the bidding starts at $1. Just thought I would let you know..... Not sure if it fits you GS but its worth a shot for cheap.taillight

 

[infinite]

Thanks again guys. I don't know that my lights are interchangeable with 91-93 sedans since there was a bumper change after those years.

I can get new OEM tails from the dealership for just under 3 bills, but I found some for $170 for the whole set from a used parts dealer. Guess that is the direction I have to go.

LPB, I was actually thinking that it was the method I had used to clean the lenses that was at fault when I first started seeing the pock marks.

If I get any extra cash and I can find another used set of lenses, I may get a second set and try again, but never again will I try on my primary set.

 

[LPB]

Thanks again guys. I don't know that my lights are interchangeable with 91-93 sedans since there was a bumper change after those years.

The MOTOR Crash Estimating Guide I use lists two separate applications (different part numbers) for the taillamps 1991-93 and 94-95. This would indicate that there is not interchange. Better you locate a set of 94-95s.