[Telion]

in the trans???

In the diff, figured it would solicite more feed back to buy it, post it then wait for everyone to tell me what I should have bought. :smirk:

Also I started another thread with a question about which would be better between the smaller light RL starter and the larger TI starter but it got no love. So here is the question can I use the RL starter due to the weight difference, and before anyone comments on the minimalness (if that's a word) I have seen people take out their jacks at the track

 

[Telion]

Yeah, thats fine for the diff, but not good for anything else.

Trans or diff?

 

[Kenso]

Trans or diff?

He's just telling you not to put the 80w90 in the trans in case you weren't aware already.

As far as which starter to use, it's up to you, just make sure the Legend wiring harness will plug into the RL starter solenoid correctly as Ben mentioned earlier.

 

[Alperovich]

hmm idk, i haven't looked at the RL starters, ken might be able to better answer the question.

Don't use gear oil in the trans!

 

[Telion]

He's just telling you not to put the 80w90 in the trans in case you weren't aware already.

As far as which starter to use, it's up to you, just make sure the Legend wiring harness will plug into the RL starter solenoid correctly as Ben mentioned earlier.

Ok I was lost for a second I thought he was saying to put it in the trans, I thought Now that's odd, trans is getting standard at first then drained to go full synthetic.

As for the starter I am going to go with the RL then thanks Kenso! Ben, and Alperovich and ghosted man behind the scenes hahaha.

 

[sr5guy]

In the diff, figured it would solicite more feed back to buy it, post it then wait for everyone to tell me what I should have bought. :smirk:

Here... I'll do it for you

:flame: :flame: :flame: :flame:

-Matt

 

[Telion]

Here... I'll do it for you

:flame: :flame: :flame: :flame:

-Matt

Flame on Brutha!

 

[Telion]

Ok here is a pic of the custom plate that would need for the TI headers. Not sure what the exact design of the OBX headers are right here but if someone wants to upload a pic that would be mighty gracious.

There is a circular hole under the plate so perfection was not a necessity I will make a template of this as well. incase the OBX headers require it.

 

[Alperovich]

Ok here is a pic of the custom plate that would need for the TI headers. Not sure what the exact design of the OBX headers are right here but if someone wants to upload a pic that would be mighty gracious.

There is a circular hole under the plate so perfection was not a necessity I will make a template of this as well. incase the OBX headers require it.

OBX headers don't need anything like that...

 

[swift]

and why would you have T1 manifolds on an RL anyway lol?

j/k

yeah headers are good to go outta the box. Just make sure you are aware of O2 sensor placement and the mounts

 

[the_invisible]

Hey Telion. Very thorough write up.
Since you have your motor out, I am wondering if you could quickly find out for me what the inner diameter is for the heater core hose.

Thanks.

 

[Telion]

Hey Telion. Very thorough write up.
Since you have your motor out, I am wondering if you could quickly find out for me what the inner diameter is for the heater core hose.

Thanks.

Sure I will possibly be pulling that tonight I will let you know

 

[Telion]

Hell YES mount arrived today looks great, and Swift thank you for getting that done as fast as you did I know there were several complications that had nothing to do with you (damn postal service) but as soon as you got it you got right to work and got it back to me quickly. looks pretty solid too, didn't skimp on the weld lol. I will post pics in a bit got get changed so I can drop it like it's HOT!

 

[Telion]

Ok here are a few more pics and a few FYI's

If you care about your paint job cover the engine bay with skirts

Refill the diff before you put your cover back on if you decide to change out the diff fluid. If you dont attach a hose to a funnel (theres a DIY for this somewhere on here.)

When putting the engine back in make sure that the tranny clears the steering linkage (possibly only manual). I had to remove some extra heat shields and take the linkage off at the shifter in order to get out out from under the Y-Pipe.

When you are dropping the engine using a engine hoist mane sure that the oil filter clears the the front of the frame if you go in at a slight angle.

These last couple are for Alperovich I did my interpretation of a dramatic pic

 

[Telion]

Oh yea ATL I think the hose refering to is 3/4 " ID heater hose.

 

[RanRan]

ah, yes, almost done

 

[Telion]

Ok I don't know if I am going to make come meet time. I am going to try to work on it everyday after work but anticipated being able to fire it up for the first time today. Well it turns over freely but, that is about it. I am not getting fuel I know this because my fuel pump is not coming on I have to go to bed now because I have to work tomorrow but if anyone can help me with my issue in the meantime I would be greatful. I am hoping someone may know off the top of their head to help save trouble shoot time please forgive me this is not laziness.

A couple thoughts, maybe I missed a wire connection somewhere

so what connections go to the main relay and or the ECU?

What else could cause the fuel pump to not turn on?

And if you think of anything else I will trouble shoot that as soon as I get off work too!

 

[sr5guy]

As with any online diagnosis, we'll need more information to help. Please answer all questions honestly.

1.) First things first, did you correct all of the grounds in the engine harness, especially the one on the thermostat housing and on the fuel rail? Passenger's valve cover to strut tower? Main block ground? Those are critical to the engine running.
2.) When you turn the ignition on, does the fuel pump prime (go on and then shut off) when the ignition is turned off?
3.) Does the CEL illuminate and then shut off after 5 or so seconds when the ignition is turned on?
4.) Did you use the Legend or 3.5RL cam position sensor?
5.) Did you use any other 3.5RL electronics? Fuel injectors? Coil packs, etc?
6.) Did you have prior main relay issues?
7.) Are you using the RL fuel pressure regulator? If not, please describe how you hooked up the aftermarket one.
8.) Did you accidently sell your ECU to someone?


If the CEL stays on steady and doesn't go off when the ignition is turned on, then the ECU is detecting a major sensor problem. Check the wiring to the cam/crank posistion sensor, MAP sensor, coolant temp, etc. After a few seconds of cranking with the starter, the ECU should store a code if one of the signals is bad from those sensors, you can read it in the normal way of shorting the wire with a paper clip. What are those codes?

If there is a problem with the cam position sensor, the fuel pump will prime when the igntion is turned on, but will not run as the engine is cranked.

 

[Telion]

As with any online diagnosis, we'll need more information to help. Please answer all questions honestly.

1.) First things first, did you correct all of the grounds in the engine harness, especially the one on the thermostat housing and on the fuel rail? Passenger's valve cover to strut tower? Main block ground? Those are critical to the engine running.
2.) When you turn the ignition on, does the fuel pump prime (go on and then shut off) when the ignition is turned off?
3.) Does the CEL illuminate and then shut off after 5 or so seconds when the ignition is turned on?
4.) Did you use the Legend or 3.5RL cam position sensor?
5.) Did you use any other 3.5RL electronics? Fuel injectors? Coil packs, etc?
6.) Did you have prior main relay issues?
7.) Are you using the RL fuel pressure regulator? If not, please describe how you hooked up the aftermarket one.
8.) Did you accidently sell your ECU to someone?

If the CEL stays on steady and doesn't go off when the ignition is turned on, then the ECU is detecting a major sensor problem. Check the wiring to the cam/crank posistion sensor, MAP sensor, coolant temp, etc. After a few seconds of cranking with the starter, the ECU should store a code if one of the signals is bad from those sensors, you can read it in the normal way of shorting the wire with a paper clip. What are those codes?

If there is a problem with the cam position sensor, the fuel pump will prime when the igntion is turned on, but will not run as the engine is cranked.

Pure comedy, but I will grant you that
1. Yes
2. As previously stated NO
3. No cel at all I don't think it is registering the ECU to be honest I will flip the chip around tonight to see if I get a cel to be sure. Flipped and cel= registering, no cel it is an issue before ECU circuitry

4. Yes and duplicated your female/female adapter (for a reference please see your post in your 3.5 thread)

5. Yes I used the 3.5 starter, but this is a fuel issue specifically (I hope)with either the main relay fuel pump connections or the connections tied to the ECU somewhere. Didn't use RL coil packs, Ignitor, or fuel injectors all Legend.

6. No previous issues drove fine up to the second that I pulled her

7. As stated before I am using a Megan Racing fuel pressure regulator with a psi guage that is not reading any pressure at all (which is good because the fuel pump does not come on) it is hooked up according to spec. with the #1 vacuum hose going to the proper location on the map sensor box (furthest out vacuum connection (as a reference please see S/M)

8. Yes I sold my ECU for $1000.00 because it was personally signed with my autograph that will be worth millions one day. :angel:

Now that I have completed the above survey can someone please help me

 

[Kenso]

If the CEL isn't even coming on for a few seconds during the initial key on bulb check, you generally would have an issue with either power or ground to the ecu. Are you 100% sure that all the grounds are good? Especially the one on the pass. side fuel rail and the t-stat housing as Matt mentioned.

If it's a chip placement issue with your ecu/cel not working, you would know more about that than I would.