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Discussion Starter #1
if you dynamatt or fatmat your whole entire trunk..will the bass still travel in the cabin? or will it mainly stay in the trunk?..thanks..
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm looking to fatmat my car too...Cran, you goin dynamat or fatmat?
honestly..I dont know wich one is better..I heard fatmat is good though..so iam thinking of getting like 100 ft of that and double it up or even triple it u in the trunk and rear deack and around all my speakers...hopefuly it would sound a lot better and harder...
 

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FRISCO LEGEND BABY!!!!
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I'm planning on doing that too, but just doing double stacks.
 

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the shop pack 80sq feet should be enough to do 2 layers in the trunk covering every area.

i bought a 60sq ft pack once and it was enough to do the trunk floor and lid... i didnt do the sides but i still had alot left over.

plus i wasted alot of it.

even with 1 layer it was a big difference. most of the bass was kept inside.
 

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Call me Mister
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if you dynamatt or fatmat your whole entire trunk..will the bass still travel in the cabin? or will it mainly stay in the trunk?..thanks..
With subwoofers in the trunk it is best to seal and deaden everything but the seat wall and deck, or applying deadener only to the sheet metal of the seat wall and deck - not sealing as you would do with the other surfaces.
You will be reducing gain into the cabin if you seal the entire trunk with deadener.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
With subwoofers in the trunk it is best to seal and deaden everything but the seat wall and deck, or applying deadener only to the sheet metal of the seat wall and deck - not sealing as you would do with the other surfaces.
You will be reducing gain into the cabin if you seal the entire trunk with deadener.
yea thats what i thought..because the the dynamat wont let the bass travel from the trunk into the cabin..I just want to dynamat the top of the rear deck to cut off the rattle
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have dynamat n it works fine, i did the side, trunk lid and bottom of my trunk and thats all you really need to do and your can will hit like a champ, now to stop those flaps in the rear bumper:wtf:
did you double layered it? or just one? and what mil did you use 80 or 50? I think 50 is the thicker one but Iam not sure...
 
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Will you did meet Lou didn't you? Should have asked him he's got a lot into his stereo and did a complete deaden job. 80 mil is thicker, personally asphalt based ones will smell like pavement in the summer look into another brand.
 

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do the insides of your front doors first.. you'll be surprised how much of a difference it really does make.

those flaps.. are needed. do not close them.. they are there so that when your perfectly weathersealed car door slams shuts. all that air pressure doesn't blow out your sunroof. or weaken other window's weatherstripping.. etc

i've had good experience with E-dead. from elemental designs..

for trucks.. double on deck lid. double in spare tire well.. single everywhere else. leave the back of the seats alone.. and deal with your rattling deck by finding which clips are broken. replace them. and put some butyl tape( window ribbon) on them before you press them back in..

will be doing a DIY on a better rear deck rattle fix than towels.. no offense to the guy that posted that DIY. it works. but there is a better way.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Will you did meet Lou didn't you? Should have asked him he's got a lot into his stereo and did a complete deaden job. 80 mil is thicker, personally asphalt based ones will smell like pavement in the summer look into another brand.
yea I met up with him..didnt really know he had done all that...Ill just email him one day and ask him a few questions about it..
 

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Discussion Starter #16
do the insides of your front doors first.. you'll be surprised how much of a difference it really does make.

those flaps.. are needed. do not close them.. they are there so that when your perfectly weathersealed car door slams shuts. all that air pressure doesn't blow out your sunroof. or weaken other window's weatherstripping.. etc

i've had good experience with E-dead. from elemental designs..

for trucks.. double on deck lid. double in spare tire well.. single everywhere else. leave the back of the seats alone.. and deal with your rattling deck by finding which clips are broken. replace them. and put some butyl tape( window ribbon) on them before you press them back in..

will be doing a DIY on a better rear deck rattle fix than towels.. no offense to the guy that posted that DIY. it works. but there is a better way.
I did that diy with the towels and it didnt work for me..I dont know if I did it wrong but i feel it was simple enough not to screw it up..I need a better solution for that deck because it drives me nuts at time!!!
 

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do the insides of your front doors first.. you'll be surprised how much of a difference it really does make.

those flaps.. are needed. do not close them.. they are there so that when your perfectly weathersealed car door slams shuts. all that air pressure doesn't blow out your sunroof. or weaken other window's weatherstripping.. etc

i've had good experience with E-dead. from elemental designs..

for trucks.. double on deck lid. double in spare tire well.. single everywhere else. leave the back of the seats alone.. and deal with your rattling deck by finding which clips are broken. replace them. and put some butyl tape( window ribbon) on them before you press them back in..

will be doing a DIY on a better rear deck rattle fix than towels.. no offense to the guy that posted that DIY. it works. but there is a better way.
E-dead is really good. I had a good experience with it. The price is right too.
 

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Interesting thread. Thanks guys. I recently replaced the audio system... with fairly nice ones I might add (matching FOCAL front & rear, 4 channel amp & Alpine head unit). No subs though. However, they're not sounding quite up to par. Certainly not like how they demo'ed in the showroom. My conclusion is that the speakers installation in the car are not quite optimized.

The questions is will sound deadening around the speakers improve audio performance? If so, what material and how to optimize the application?

I found this on the web. Feel free to chime in. Any suggestion is much appreciated.

Sound Deadener Showdown
 

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Call me Mister
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The questions is will sound deadening around the speakers improve audio performance? If so, what material and how to optimize the application?

[/url]
Correct installation of Sound deadening is one important part of getting the best sound from your speakers. Speaker placement and mounting are where you want to start, and the sealing and deadening will improve on that. Here is a link from Rick's RAAMMAT site...
RAAMaudio - Quality and Value in Automotive Sound Deadening
Rick is a great guy and has solid products at good prices.
 

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I also tried e-dead as well. the price is right as stated above and it was the easiest to use out of all the products ive used. Dynamat is nice, but gets messy and its not as flexible so its harder to flatten when applying it to the panels. Edead is great, although a bit thinner than dynamat. i did the spare tire well, trunk lid, and rear deck. my bass response was a lot tighter and the rear deck rattling was eliminated (except for the third brake light which i havent fixed yet).

and mello that looks like a good article i didnt have a chance to read it all... will read later
 
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