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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I reaplaced all four wheels disc brakes about a month ago and ever since thers been this annoying squealing noise I paid no attention to it because i was told that it was just that the pads were new and it would go away with time but its really gettin on my f*ckin nerves it seems to happen more when driving the car for long distances. I dont know whats wrong I used that anti squeal stuff in between the pads and shims. I read on an old post that it could be because I didnt use OEM pads is this true? :D :D
any help would be helpful thanks:D :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
G RAHN I didnt have any high temp grease at the time so i didnt use any also the pads that i used were from pep boys called rabestos the only ones they had at the time. Could not using the high temp gerease be the prob??? Also are the guide pins your talking about the bolts that go into the little boots behind the caliper
:D :D
 

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91legendsedanL said:
G RAHN I didnt have any high temp grease at the time so i didnt use any also the pads that i used were from pep boys called rabestos the only ones they had at the time. Could not using the high temp gerease be the prob??? Also are the guide pins your talking about the bolts that go into the little boots behind the caliper
:D :D
Rebestos pads are a piece of crap. Truthfully, I've used them in the past on my first Legend Coupe and on my older Integra. They are noisy. The Integra eventually sort of went away to the point where the noise would only happen occationally. The Legend however would always squeek at least briefly all the time. As soon as I sold it to my friend, he put on some OEM pads using the same rotors and it was noise free from then on. IF you are not going to get higher performance aftermarket pads like EBCV< Axis Metal Masters, KVR and such, than stick to the OEM pads. The company that makes the OEM pads also make the AEM pads, so that is anther option.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the info, I'll never use these pice of ish pads agin:D BTW I did end up taking the guide pins out on friday and re grased them. Alot of the noise went away but it still squeals at times ,must be the cheap pads :D :D
 

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The OEM replacement pad set (both front & rear) include new shims and Molykote M77 grease,along with the pads. The purpose of the grease is to help damper the sound from the pads. There should be two shims on the inboard side of the pads and one on the outboard side. On the inboard side, grease should be applied on both sides of the inner shim (between the pad and outer shim) and the side of the outer shim that faces the inner shim. On the outboard side, grease should be applied to the side of the shim next to the pad. I also put a very small amount on the side of the shim that contacts the piston (inboard) and the caliper (outboard), though it is not part of the procedure in the manual.

I have OEM rotors and pads, use that procedure and have never had a problem with brake noise.

WHM
 

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hey guys i am having a brake problem myself, and you know the pins in the caliper that grahn was talking about, they seem to be sticking. i put grease in one week and check it the next and it is dry again. these are brand new calipers on both sides in the rear and i can't get rid of this problem. my rear brakes are constantly sticking, when i jack car up you can barely even spin the back wheels. some help PLEASE the noise every time i pull away from a compete stop is killing me.
 

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Craigstar333,
I mentioned the parking brake to you in another thread. One way that you can rule it out is to remove the lower caliper bolt, swing the caliper up and rotate the rotor. If the problem goes away, it is not the parking brake.

Whenever I completely remove a caliper, I spray grease up in the boot that the pin slides into and then reseat the boot on both ends. I use an aerosol can of white lithium grease manufactured by STP and fill the boot about 1/3 full. Sometimes I have to wipe off the excess that comes out when I reseat the boot on the pin.

WHM
 

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you cannot use ordinary grease on these parts as the heat will vaporize it and then it will be dry again....use high temp brake caliper grease, Sylglide is my favorite....lithium grease is not effective.
 

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BigDad,
Are your comments about lithium grease being ineffective based on fact, your experiences and is that just your opinion?

Interestingly, I had just returned from the parts store with some front brake rotors which I planned to install on my daughter's '89 Honda Accord when I read your comments. As a person who prefers to error on the side of caution, even though I have never had a problem with the lithium grease; I went back out to find some some brake caliper lubricant. I was not able to find the brand that you mentioned, but I did get some.

I noticed that the price is quite a bit more than the lithium grease. This is not a bad thing, if the extra cost is warranted. I happened to be in line with a mechanic who I spoke to about the use of lithium grease on the pins. He did not see it as a potential problem and suggested that it was possibaly just the opinion of an individual. I also noticed that the company, "CRC", that makes a number of brake maintanence products makes an aerosol can of white lithium grease. On the can it specifically states that it can be used on brake mechanisms and is effective in all temperatures.


Though I do a lot of work on cars, that is not my profession and I do not pretend to know it all. I am always open to learning better ways of doing what I do and, in this case, possiblely unlearning something that I am doing uncorrectly.

I did use the caliper lubricant on the pins of the brake calipers on my daughter's car and used the MolyKote M77 lubricant, that came with the OEM pads, on the shims. However, before I make the permanent change to caliper lubricant instead of lithium grease , I intend to do some additional research. So, if you know of a source where I can find additional infromation, I would appreciate hearing about it.

Thank You & Take Care, WHM
 
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