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Discussion Starter #1
I was driving my 87 legend the other day and out of nowhere it acted as if i were running out of fuel and stalled. I had a quarter of a tank. I tried restarting it and it wouldnt fire. After sitting there for about fifteen minutes i tried starting it again and IT STARTED. I drove about a mile and once again it acted though it was running out of fuel and died once again! I gave up on trying to restart it again and towed it home. Two days later i went outside and it started up on the first try, after letting it sit there idling for about 2 minutes it died. Immediately i tried restarting it but it wouldnt. After waiting about 10-20 minutes i tried again and it fired right up! But once again after a few minutes of idling it suddenly died again with no warning. Although after waiting another 10-20 mins it would not fire back up. The next day i went out, it fired up the first try, so i put it in gear and proceeded to drive about 25-30 laps around the circle of my driveway. Sure enough out of nowhere it stalled again. I threw it in neutral and it fired right back up. So i continued to do another 25 laps around the circle with no problem, this time it never stalled. So i stopped, put it in reverse and backed into my parking spot and shut it off. Tried restarting it right after that and it didnt fire the first time but did the second time. So i shut it off once more and tried it again but it didnt fire. I continued to try and start it with no success! Since then i have not been able to get it started. It will crank, but im not getting anything. So i checked to see if i had spark. Which i dont anymore. I had the coil tested at autozone and they said it appeared to be fine. I dont understand how my coil reads the proper amount of ohms, yet im getting no spark. I tested the harness going to the coil and it seemed to read right as well. I checked the distributor cap for damage and there appears to be none. Im completely confused on what it could be. If anyone has any clue as to what it is i would really appreciate any help they can offer. PLEASE HELP!
Thank you for any responses :)
 

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for now stop trying to turn it on so much... i think you can mess up the valves or something like that..
 

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and probably drain ur battery..
 

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Mo*or Mo**h
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If the coil tests okay, then there's something between there and the plugs giving a problem. This, however, sounds like something other than the original problem, which sounded like a fuel issue.

But, having spark would seem most necessary before proceeding.

Coil, Ignitor, Radio Noise Suppressor, Distributor/Rotor/Cap, Plug wires and finally, plugs. That's all it could be.

The Main Relay would engage the Starting Circuit Relay and the Fuel Pump. I don't think it affects spark directly.

So, your other problem could be a bad Main Relay related to the fuel pump, the fuel pump itself, a clogged fuel filter, the fuel pressure regulator or your fuel injectors.

Did you check your ECU for codes?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My PGM-FI light isnt on. Would it still give me codes if its not on?

The coil appears to be in great shape, theres no visual damage to it. Same with the cap and rotor. I tested the distributor and it reads right as well.
Could the Main relay be malfuntioning if i still hear the three clicks?
 

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Mo*or Mo**h
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My PGM-FI light isnt on. Would it still give me codes if its not on?

The coil appears to be in great shape, theres no visual damage to it. Same with the cap and rotor. I tested the distributor and it reads right as well.
Could the Main relay be malfuntioning if i still hear the three clicks?
Can't tell whether a coil is good or not by looking at it.

A Check Engine light would also mean a Code on the ECU.
Sometimes it's easier to just look at the ECU, you could have a light burned out.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i had it tested at autozone and they said it was fine. Should there be constant power coming from the plug that goes to the distributor?? Both terminals on the little plug on the coil have power when the key is on but not when it is off. And does the larger plug go to the ignition switch?? And if so, should only one terminal be live when the key is on??
 

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Mo*or Mo**h
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There's a very specific test described in the manual for the coil, and it's simple to do. Two parts, one with the switch on, ohms between two contacts, the other with all connections off the coil and ohms between two contacts.

It has to be within spec for the coil to work properly.

I do believe the Coil Wire to the distributor would carry a persistant voltage, but that's not the way it's tested. And, I don't think it constant, relying on the lag time between rotor turns to recharge. Not sure on that, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Bare with me, im new with this. They only did the test between two contacts on the cooil at autozone and they said it should read between 2 and 6 ohms. It read 3-4 ohms. Do you know what the spec ohms should be with the switch on?
 

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Mo*or Mo**h
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Page 23-66 of 1987 Coupe Manual

1. With Ignition Switch OFF disconnect the primary connectors and the coil wire.

2. Using an Ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the terminals. Replace the coil if the resistance is not within specifications.

NOTE: Resistance will vary with the coil temperature; specifications are at 20 C/70 F.

Primary Winding resistance
between A and D terminals: 0.3-0.4 Ohms

Secondary Winding Resistance
between the A and Secondary Winding Terminal: 9,040-12,560 Ohms

Resistance Between the B and D Terminals: 2,090-2,310 Ohms.


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If Coil is oriented on its' side with the Coil Wire hole to the top (coil wire hole = Secondary Winding Terminal).

THEN, the lower left terminal has two contacts, the upper one being "D", the lower one is not used.

And, the lower right terminal has two contacts, the upper one being "B" and the lower one being "A".
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
sorry i didnt refresh the page before that last post. Thank you :)

Thank you very much for the help. Ill do the test tomorrow, and hopefully its just the coil creating my spark problem cuz thats an easy fix. Then its on to the fuel problem. Which i will probably end up posting more about when i get stuck. But thanks again KAHruzer you have been very helpful!!
 

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because i can.
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It initially sounded to me like your fuel filter....how is that btw?

Do you have a coupe or sedan?

If coupe, check the igniter unit and the radio noise condenser...is the ECU throwing any codes?

If sedan with a 2.5, check the igniter (attached to the distributor) and radio noise condenser....also still check the ECU for any codes...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Its a sedan. Honestly i didnt check the ECU for codes cuz i didnt know if it would send codes if the PGM-FI light werent on
 

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Mo*or Mo**h
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Since you have a sedan (1987), you have a 2.5L engine with some spec differences between it and the later 2.7L engine. If you have a manual, you'd do well to check it for the correct coil specs. But, I doubt they're much different.

Another difference is the Ignitor Unit which is attached to the distributor on the 2.5L (per Sam-O above. I thought the 2.5L had no Ignitor at all) and to the coil on the 2.7L.
 

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Spiral descent
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Checking the ECU takes only a couple seconds, you don't even need to turn the car on, just turn it till the seatbelt reminder starts beeping.

I am also interested in your fuel filter and how old it is. I had a somewhat similar problem that I never entirely resolved.
 

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It's possible that you have a faulty fuel sending unit... I bet you the strainer/filter attached to the bottom of the sending unit badly restricted.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Tested the coil and from A & D read .9ohms. Would that make my coil faulty because its not between .3-.4 ???

I was also wondering what this little black box below the coil is. It looks like some kind of wire linkage, but im really not sure. It comes off of the plug that leads to the distributor.
 

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no go interuptus

Hi, I think this is a classic case of main relay trouble. Temp cure is to whack the dash to the left of the cluster. Permanent fix is to hunt through the many posts here about it, search for "main relay".

Can't comment on it directly as mine has thus far been ok, but it is the common no start fault.

Also, when checking for power use a 12V test lamp, a voltmeter will read 12v sometimes even though the connections are so horrible that sufficient current will not flow.

cheers, Jay
 

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Mo*or Mo**h
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Tested the coil and from A & D read .9ohms. Would that make my coil faulty because its not between .3-.4 ???

I was also wondering what this little black box below the coil is. It looks like some kind of wire linkage, but im really not sure. It comes off of the plug that leads to the distributor.
I would call it out of spec. Imagine if your car weighed 3X as much. Would you have any doubt about why the MPG suffered?

You're showing a resistance of almost 3X over spec. That means it takes 3x the effort to get power through that circuit, if it goes at all.

And, since that's the PRIMARY winding, the voltage/amperage produced by the coil will be reduced proportionally. I'm guessing a rounded 1/3rd.

What were the readings on the other two tests?

The little black box below the coil is either the Ignitor Unit or the Radio Noise Suppressor. Since you have an '87 Sedan with a 2.5L, the Ignitor Unit is on the Distributor, so it's likely the Radio Noise Suppressor.

It's called a "Radio Condenser" in the manual. It should have a capacity of 0.47 +- 0.09 MircoFarads.

A failure of this condenser CAN cause the engine to fail to start/run.
 
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