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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok here's what I want to do. I want to cut out the little leather piece behind the rear armrest in the middle of the seat, and cut out a hole in the padding between the trunk and rear seat. I want to mount the sub back there, facing forward, blasting straight into the cabin. I was going to build a custom enclosure that'll take up all the space going across in the little area in front of the spare tire, that way I'll still have access to it. My only question is this: would I need a free-air sub for this? It'll be mounted to a (semi) sealed enclosure, the only opening would be the hole into the cabin. Just wondering. Any advice from the experts would be just great
 

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first off, you should use either a sealed or ported box. i'm not sure what yuou mean by 'semi-sealed'. if ported thats cool. free air subs suck, imo, and most people i know will agree with that. if the cone of the speaker would be facing the hole in the seats, then it would actually be a sealed box. I am also working on a box design for my coupe that will occupy that area of the trunk, including amp rack. I've already designed it and now need to make the card-board templates for testing.

cutting the hole in the seat really wont make a difference in sound as subs are omnidirectional. it might be cool if you had a ported box and vented the port through the hole since you would have all that air movement entering the cabin. either way though, it won't really affect the sound quality.

good luck
 

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for your design I say get yourself a nice pair of subs that is suited well for a ported enclosure build yourself a box that has a slanted back and is vented not ported. in the center of the box and have that vent right in the center where the back arm rest is then you'll have all those air coming into the cabin. I'm not sure if it's possible to build a box that is vented from the back with the subs firing toward the trunk and have it sound good, but from experience subs doesn't sound very good facing the front. I'm done this experiment with a sealed box and a bandpass before non of it sound right. Building a vented or ported box takes lots of skills because you'll have to calculate the correct port size and depth a small mis calculation will cause you disrtortion and will lose certain notes at certain hz. It's not as easy as it looks. And also choose your box based on your taste of music. If you like accurate bass with a tight response I recommend going with a sealed box, size of the box will have to depend on what kind of subs you'll be using, adding pollyfil will always help. Go with a ported or bandpass box for more boomy bass but you won't get the SQ of a sealed box. a ported or a bandpass box will be more efficient, you won't need as much power as you do like a sealed box, because the sub will be moving more freely w/o the effect of the push and pull process. Back in the days when rap was all I listen too where low bass was probably the only thing I care about I used a bandpass box, now a days listen to more trance/techno and a lot of the softer music, I only use a sealed box. Don't get me wrong with the right subs/enclosure setup you'll get just as much low bass as you will in a sealed box.
 

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I have almost the same setup in my legend. I don't have leather, but the fabric that was behind the armrest came out no problem. Didn't need any tools I just pulled it off. I have two kicker L7's fit underneath the rear deck in a sealed box.
I measured the h,w,d and made the box according to the size I needed. I have an amp rack mounted directly in front of my box with a false floor in front of that. I can still get to my spare no problem! I'll try to get some pic's up in the next couple of days so you can get a better idea.
 

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update with pics!

xfbfg
 

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Just to expand on the rest of the postings here. You have also have to take into considerations what type of box your subs are recommended to play in. Some subs are built to run in sealed enclosures whereas others are built to run in ported/vented enclosures.

As Danny has said, a vented/ported enclosure is difficult because you'll have to get the port/vent right. A miscalculation, and your sound could be really bad.

I personally like the sound of a sealed enclosure. The bass is tighter and cleaner AND the enclosure is alot easier to build. However, they do require more power to run them than a 7th order (i.e. bandpass) or a vented/ported enclosure. There is are other types of enclosure that you can use, and one is a an iso-baric enclosure. This is where the speaker cones face each other, and with a iso-baric enclosure, the box can be either ported or sealed. This is a VERY hard box to get right, but can be done. With this setup, the subs act in a push/pull fashion.

Anyway, that's not what you're looking for. You CAN do what you're thinking of with a sealed enclosure. There are a selection of subs out on the market that require very little airspace to run properly.

Kicker Solo-Baric and Image Dynamics are just a couple of brands that need very little air volume.

Hope this helps.
 

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koper187 said:
first off, you should use either a sealed or ported box. i'm not sure what yuou mean by 'semi-sealed'. if ported thats cool. free air subs suck, imo, and most people i know will agree with that. if the cone of the speaker would be facing the hole in the seats, then it would actually be a sealed box. I am also working on a box design for my coupe that will occupy that area of the trunk, including amp rack. I've already designed it and now need to make the card-board templates for testing.

cutting the hole in the seat really wont make a difference in sound as subs are omnidirectional. it might be cool if you had a ported box and vented the port through the hole since you would have all that air movement entering the cabin. either way though, it won't really affect the sound quality.

good luck
"Daaammmmnnnn, that bass is on hit." "What kind of box you got for your subs?" "Nice clean sound." "I can hear everything so clearly." I could go on and on with the complements I get about the system my man Morris "Mobetta" Brown installed for me. And I can tell you that every one who hears the system for the first time are completely surprised when I open my trunk and they see this...



and they're in disbelief until I show them this.



Oh yeah I almost forgot the quote I hear the most. "Gi'me dudes number so I can [email protected]'em."

And in case you're still in the dark, the above are pics of 15" freeair. If done "right" freeair sounds tight.

One...

Fut :2cool:
 

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DAMN Fut. that is tight. what brand are those. the magnets dont look very big. how many watts are you pushin
ANYWAY isobaric sounds really good if done right, i had 2 JL 10W0 in an isobaric, but they got jacked. but it wouldnt work well for the application that you are wanting. I would recommend a ported box you can probably get it to sound good, but you might want an audio shop to do it. cause that can get funky. personally, im going to build a sealed box for my kappa perfect 10, as soon as it gets here, ( i hope bing shipped it) and face it toward the rear, although i have considered porting it and cutting a vent through the rear deck. becuz of the air i will be pushing, my trunklid will really vibrate unless i do that. does anyone know if this is possible or how to do it. i dont really want to cut out my peice behind the armrest, but i may have to do that.
thanks
tnelson
 

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tnelson said:
DAMN Fut. that is tight. what brand are those. the magnets dont look very big. how many watts are you pushin
ANYWAY isobaric sounds really good if done right, i had 2 JL 10W0 in an isobaric, but they got jacked. but it wouldnt work well for the application that you are wanting. I would recommend a ported box you can probably get it to sound good, but you might want an audio shop to do it. cause that can get funky. personally, im going to build a sealed box for my kappa perfect 10, as soon as it gets here, ( i hope bing shipped it) and face it toward the rear, although i have considered porting it and cutting a vent through the rear deck. becuz of the air i will be pushing, my trunklid will really vibrate unless i do that. does anyone know if this is possible or how to do it. i dont really want to cut out my peice behind the armrest, but i may have to do that.
thanks
tnelson
Freeair MTX 2000's tapped into a MTX 2150 amp. For more specs [email protected] my boy Mobetta.

One...

Fut :cool:
 

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HurricaneLegend said:
hot damn fut whats holdin those bad boys down?
They're mounted on 1/2", 3/4" or 5/8" plywood not sure which and they had to relocate the ABS and the TCS units. [email protected] my installer Mobetta for more specs. 310.359.8518

One...

Fut :cool:
 

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Free Air Woofers

First let me respond to Koper 187's comments on how free-airs are crap! No disrespect meant, but obviously you don't know too many people that are into 'QUALITY' sound! I'll agree that if not done correctly, free-airs can sound horrible. So will any woofer that is not in a proper enclosure or mounted properly or under powered.

The reason, however, most people don't use free-air is because it's too much work. Dropping some pre-made box into a trunk is easy, usually sounds okay, and only takes a couple of minutes. Building an enclosure or properly mounting free-air woofers requires alot of mental and physical work.

I tried to talk FUT into a small enclosure with a JL or SoloBaric, but he wasn't having it!! He has FULL use of his trunk which not many Legend owners with sounds can say and his system is clean and it subs.

No he can't be heard from 2 blocks away. No the bass from a rap song doesn't drown out the vocals and no he won't win an SPL contest. But I'll bet he would win the sound quality portion of IASCA and have room in the trunk for the trophy!!

PEACE
 

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MoBetta, did you do the install job, if you had to move the TCS and ABS, you did a hella good job. Yeah, free air done right sounds good, but if you want a lot of power, you gotta give it up for the ported and bandpass. You just cant pull the same hit out of free air. it sounds good, but you cant push as much power. no disrespect meant, but i still likke ported better
peace
Tnelson

I guess everyones entitled to their own opinion, BTW LEDLEGEND
you probably want to go with sealed if your makin you own, ported can get tricky, just run a good sub and amp and it will hit hard. Yeah, cutting out that leather peice would be tight.
Good luck and post pics
 

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two words:

Aperiodic Enclosure! :) then again, you probably won't want to attempt this if you are not experience in doing it...I have only tried it once with limited success. :)

but...if you space is your main concern, why not get a really shallow sub? a pair of illusion audio 10" will fit nicely, and the box shouldnt be more than 4-5 inches deep...spl wont be spectacular but they will sound very good.

as far as free air goes, I certainly agree that they can sound good, but like the post above said, it takes a good amount of work to get ir right, and the results,when not done right, can often be disappointing. especially the SPL side.

I would suggest a sealed ecnlosure facinv front or back, as longa s its not too deep you should be able to get at the spare tire fine.

b
 

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Thanks tnelson

Thanks tnelson. Yes I did the install and it was a ridiculous amout of work, but I love it when people listen to the system sub and wonder where the bass is coming from once we pop the trunk.

As I said, the spl can't quite compare to an enclosure which is one of the reasons I went with 15" free airs. The added cone allows them to go alot deeper than most 'free-air haters' could imagine.

PEACE
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok how does this sound... hooked up like Fut's, but with a pioneer 10" free-air pushing 150 watts, mounted in the center. and btw much thanks to everybody for all their input.. i really do appreciate it!
 

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if you do it right, it iwll sound pretty good, not much SPL, but will sound okay :)

b
 

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I've used Pioneer free-air before. They're OK for the price. I'd try to fit a 12 at least though. Lots of difference in low end response.

PEACE
 

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Led Legend said:
Ok how does this sound... hooked up like Fut's, but with a pioneer 10" free-air pushing 150 watts, mounted in the center. and btw much thanks to everybody for all their input.. i really do appreciate it!
Le Legend, not to confuse you or start another debate but my '90 5 Speed Civic sedan featured a "MoBetta" 12" freeair system. It was my first experience with freeair and I was not sure of the sound I would get. One thing I did know was that I wanted to be able to use my trunk as a trunk, freeair allowed me to do just that. Once again people freeair is not for everyone but when "installed right" you can be surprised by the amount of bass you get from a virtually empty trunk. I was and that's why it's "freeair" in the '94 GS 6 Speed.

One...

Fut :cool:
 

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cutting leather in arm rest

thinking of cutting the leather behind the armrest to get sound in the cabin as well. Does anyone else have any opinions on do'in this mod? Is there any justification in it.

I really don't like the muzzeled sound of the sub in a sealed trunk compared to a hatch or suv.

Will this mod give me the same effect as a hatch back or not?

I'm gonna use a sealed box with one 12" infinity kappa. Will this mod help or not?

Any pics of it done out there on the G2, i found this one done for the G1...

 
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