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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I had asked advice on my transmission. Slippage could have been caused by a faulty tranny or by fluids not being there when required. i suspected the latter when no slippage occured when i allowed the engine to really warm up before driving. The solenoids were removed and cleaned as much as i dared. The now shifting is awesome and the tranny feels brand new. THANKS GIL for your posts. I owe u . We owe you.
 

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hey how much did it cost u for the solenoid to be cleaned, all the labor included?

i have a feeling i might have to clean/replace them very soon, maybe in a month or two
 

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Does anyone know where the tranny solenoids are? I looked all over and can't find them.

THanks
 

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I'm going strictly on memory here, they're on the driver's side of engine on top of the transmission housing. There are two pairs of these, one for the gears and one for the torque converter.

p.s. I have a set of solenoids if you need them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I cleaned them myself following the guidelines posted by Gil. Be careful when removing the bolts. Each pair has three bolts holding them in place. One snapped when too much torque was applied. I was fortunate to have a piece extending out and could get a lock pliers to it. Recommend , if u want to do it yourself, to wash the engine especially the tranny, remove the air breather box and the battery and soak the bolts with something like liquid wrench before applying wrench. The solenoids are right below the box. The job took me a few hours as i was fussing over the cleaning and dodging the intermittent rain showers.
 

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once again, this forum kicks ass!:) :)
 

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does the Helm manuel have a diagram of the solenoids? If so, could someone scan it and post? I've gotten the intake and battery torn down, but can't locate the solenoids.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
This was posted by Davalos in 12 March 2001.

1. Disconnect and remove battery and plastic spill tray (if present)

2. Remove air cleaner box (two hold down bolts, plus one more bolt that holds a cable tie, loosen the clamps on the air intake and outlet, and slide the box up and out).

3. Remove the air-cleaner to throttle-body hose – simply to allow easier access to the solenoids.

4. Remove Solenoids – They are a set of four cylinders directly mounted to the transmission, usually held in by 6 bolts, two of which are longer, to fit through guide sleeves. Unplug the solenoids from their connectors, and remove them.

5. Clean Solenoids – use brake cleaner, or some suitable parts washer fluid to remove any external grease, and then lay them out on the a lint free cloth on flat concrete.

6. Remove Sealing Rings & Screens - carefully pry the rubber sealing ring and screens out of the solenoids. Clean out these screens carefully with brake cleaner, and set them aside. (You can leave the screens in the seals.)

7. Test Solenoids - Utilizing a 12v DC Power Source, attach the negative lead to the metal body of the solenoid. Tap-touch positive lead to lead of one of the solenoids. A normally functioning solenoid will produce a “Click” sound - if you get a spark, but not a solid click, then the solenoid is sticking.

8. Clean Solenoids – in a parts washer, with the flat side down, firmly tap the solenoid set on cleaning surface area. Set the solenoid with the holes facing up, and activate them while spraying cleaning solution into the holes. The action of the solenoids can be tested by moving cleaning solution THRU the solenoid while powered-up. Use caution not to break any internal coil wires.

9. Repeat for Each Solenoid - continue the process of flushing, tapping, and activating until you get solid clicks from all four solenoids. If you are getting a spark where you touch the lead, but no click, and no fluid goes through the holes, it may be necessary to rasp them against a hard surface. If no spark is produced during an electrical connection to 12v DC power source, it is possible the wire is open shorted.

10. Replace Sealing Ring and Screens – if necessary, use a silicon-based non-hardening o-ring sealant, and reassemble.

11. Install Solenoids into Transmission – the reverse of procedures #1 thru 4

12. Test Drive Vehicle – engage each gear in each shifter position, including any sport-level options, if applicable.

_________________________________

I think that's what they meant...
 

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Doubt it's the same for the G2, since the engine and tranny are mounted 45 degrees different, I'm sure the solenoids aren't below the intake/battery.

I've located the solenoids, can someone be more specific on which bolts to remove/how to remove the solenoids...It doesn't look like the piece they're mounted on is seperate from the tranny.
 

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nevermind, I figured out which bolts. I couldn't see several of the harder ones to get to. Took a bit of doing on the last bolt, but the solenoids are off. I'll get to cleaning and testing tommorow. I hope this helps, Lord knows they're dirty enough to be the culprits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
you'll need a pointed end to the terminal from the battery charger. A suitably bent paper clip fills the bill. I'll see if i have another post in my "archives" to post here.
 

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As I expected, the lock-up solenoid was fine. The screens hadn't been that dirty, and my symtoms hadn't matched a bad lock-up solenoid (i.e., my tranny is stuck in first gear). One the shift solenoid, only one of the solenoids are working, and the one that is is very faint. I plan on replacing this sucker very soon...

I called the Jay Wolfe Acura in Kansas City and the shift solenoid was $183!!! Wow., I guess that's better than a new tranny, but it still seems high. Rosta Precision makes non-OEM transmission solenoids for our transmission, but I couldn't get ahold of anyone there. I'll post the number and price when I find out.

Sorry to keep on rambling, but for those with transmission problems with the L5 tranny, check out this article Very usefull. Check page two for a table displaying codes/symtoms and the problem/solutions
 
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