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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need a little help with my valves. I know this is a pretty common problem for our G1s, to have tapping valves or lifters. What I would like to know is what is the best treatment for this problem. i have light weight oil in the car now, that worked for a while, but the noise is starting to come back, A LOT. Is there a way to tighten up the valves or adjust them. This mechanic said it was the lifters and that it would cost about 1000 dollars to fix the tapping, YEAH, RIGHT! Anyone know a good solution for this problem, that wont empty my pockets completly.

Also, my transmission shifts kinda rough, its like it doesnt know what gear it wants to be in from a stop. Kinda jerky acceleration, and sometimes it seems to take a while to shift to 4th. anyone else have this problem and how can I fix it?
 

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As for tapping, I've heard 5w-30, Restore additive, OEM oil filter, or synthetic oil (but could lead to some seal leaks)

As for the tranny, the obvious, drain and fill 3x with Honda ATF. Mine will sometimes down shift oddly from a stop. I think the car will start in 2d with light acceleration but may kick down if you thereafter accelerate harder. Anybody else? Also, the cold weather affects the shift interlock switch in the auto shifter. Mine use to only have problems when shifting into "P". This week it started acting up while in "D". Like the car thinks in only has 3 forward gears. The gear indicator light on the dash won't be lit at all - that's what tells me it's that switch. I plan on replacing the switch soon.
 

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2nd Gear Start

Rick90Legend said:
As for tapping, I've heard 5w-30, Restore additive, OEM oil filter, or synthetic oil (but could lead to some seal leaks)

As for the tranny, the obvious, drain and fill 3x with Honda ATF. Mine will sometimes down shift oddly from a stop. I think the car will start in 2d with light acceleration but may kick down if you thereafter accelerate harder. Anybody else? Also, the cold weather affects the shift interlock switch in the auto shifter. Mine use to only have problems when shifting into "P". This week it started acting up while in "D". Like the car thinks in only has 3 forward gears. The gear indicator light on the dash won't be lit at all - that's what tells me it's that switch. I plan on replacing the switch soon.
IIRC, when the transmission is in the S3/S4 mode, the transmission holds in 2nd gear while at a stop; it shifts to 1st gear when pulling away from a stop.

I know it mentions this in the owner's manual (trying hard to recall) :confused: I drive a stick and usually skip over the automatic transmission sections when reviewing the manual.
 

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Chuck... In addition to what Rick said, many people (I have not tried it yet as mine quieted down without it) is running Automatic Tranny fluid through the engine for about 20 miles before you change your oil... I run STP flush through every time I do an oil change, use 0W50 Castrol Syntec synthetic oil and Restore with the OEM oil filter... That worked for me...

The dealer told me the same thing... The hydraulic lifters needed to be changed IF this didn't work... The noise is just noise and WON'T kill the engine... The valves just don't open as far before the lifters pump up (when it's making noise).
 

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For the tapping use Engine restore. You can pick it up at any auto part store. They sell three sizes, depending the egine size- 4,6, and 8.
I used the product before and it worked great on the tapping. I stopped using it and went to a thicker oil and it came back. It started to bother me last week so after i changed my oil- (5w-30- blend ) I added the engine- restore and now it's nice and quiet.

Esti
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks a lot guys, I know itsd not a mechanical problem and really wont hurt the engine but Im just real picky and I hate to hear that constant tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap, you get the piont:) I think it also really depends on the temp. here in Milwaukee, its about 10 degrees. After the engine warms up, it doesnt happen as much. I will try all of these those, thanks again.
 

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I know how you feel... My wife says I'm WAY too picky about my car !!! I use the 8 cylinder can of Restore... I don't think it is right that the 4 and the 6 are the same size....

Good luck !!
 

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Chuck-Hu$tle said:
Thanks a lot guys, I know itsd not a mechanical problem and really wont hurt the engine but Im just real picky and I hate to hear that constant tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap tap, you get the piont:) I think it also really depends on the temp. here in Milwaukee, its about 10 degrees. After the engine warms up, it doesnt happen as much. I will try all of these those, thanks again.
the biggest thing that a tapping lifter will do is eventually wear your camshaft down so there will be no lobe. It is a mechanical problem, and having a shop adjust your valves will fix your problem. Adding additives only slows down the problem, not eliminating it.

transmission fluid has detergents in it and it is ok to add a half quart of good tranny fluid right before an oil change. that is the best method for a quick fix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So if I get them adjusted it should fix it? How much do you think that would run, and how come the honda/acura dealer mechanic nor my regular mechanic suggested that? They both told me I would have to have a lifter job which was like 1500 bucks. bummer. Thanks for the help!:)
 

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Chuck-Hu$tle said:
So if I get them adjusted it should fix it? How much do you think that would run, and how come the honda/acura dealer mechanic nor my regular mechanic suggested that? They both told me I would have to have a lifter job which was like 1500 bucks. bummer. Thanks for the help!:)
Only the exhaust valves are adjustable, so theoretically it will only fix half the problem. Why they designed adjustments only on the exhaust side is beyond me (I'll find out someday). It probably has something to do with the use of pushrods on that side.

I think the only real way of fixing it is to replace the lifters. But why do this when the noise will return down the road?

I've often wondered if it would be worth the time and effort to remove the lifters, clean them and put them back in as a DIY project? If it's just "dirt" and varnish that's keeping the lifters from taking up excess clearances, this should be a bit more of a permanent fix than engine additives. Maybe I'll attempt this next time I do the timing belt. Just a couple of more things to unbolt and the things should come out.

BTW, I run 15w-40 (relatively thicker than 5w-30) and I get ticking for only a few minutes at idle upon cold start up. I also get ticking occasionally at idle when warm, but almost never after I finish my commute (freeway, about an hour drive one-way) either to or from work.
 

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When running the ATF fluid through before an oil change, I assume you:

1. Drain the old oild out.
2. Fill with ATF fluid
3. Run engine briefly with ATF fluid in
4. Drain ATF fluid
5. Re-fill with light weight synthetic oil and engine restore.

Correct?

Also, can I just add the engine restore now with the engine full of oil? How about additng some ATF to the engine with it currently full of oil?
 

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csamos2
Whoaa there!
Only put a quart of tranny fluid in, if you completely replace the oil with transmission fluid, I think you will kill your engine!

I* use a bottle of flush and run it for 15 mins
drain oil, new OEM or NSX filter, use 5w30 'good' semi synthetic, and some restore-like product (we dont get restore in australia).

Works for about 5000 ks then I need more restore for perfectly quiet start up and idle.

rich
 
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