Reset the ECU.

Pull the ALT SENSE fuse for 30 seconds and replace.

See if the CHECK ENGINE light returns.

 

Is this a fuse thats under the dash or under the hood ??

 

Its under the hood

 

Pulling that fuse didn't work. Chk engine light is smilin in my face and so is S3.

From what I understand this is a temperature sensor, and the comp code is flasing 10 times which indicates intake temperature sensor. I'm hoping this is the right sensor that I replaced ????

Anybody have any clue ?

 

Pulling that fuse didn't work. Chk engine light is smilin in my face and so is S3.

From what I understand this is a temperature sensor, and the comp code is flasing 10 times which indicates intake temperature sensor. I'm hoping this is the right sensor that I replaced ????

Anybody have any clue ?

Intake temperature......makes me think it's an AIR temperature sensor, not a COOLANT temperature sensor.

 

ok So I assume I'll be running back to the dealer for an intake temp sensor ??? Where is this located??

 

The S3 light blinking would mean there is something wrong with the tranny?? The intake air temperature sensor is located right on the throttle body/intake manifold assembly, if that makes any sense?

 

I found the intake temp sensor, right at the top easy job might take 2 minutes. Dealer is ordering one for me, will be here Wed.
The mechanic said its ok to drive with the bad sensor, I just hate that stupid chk engine light smilin at me like that and also the S3 light blinking

She also takes a little longer to start in the mornings. She turns over but then slowly idles then shuts off. I assume this is an effect of sensor, and occasional rought idling ??

 

I finally installed my intake temp sensor after stripping the screw

The chk engine light is still on w/ the s3 blinkin and the computer still flashes 10 times (intake temp sensor). Is there more than one of these ?? Anyone, Anyone

 

check your battery, it might be high enough to crank but low enough to confuse your ecm. when my battery was gone it was just not strong enough to crank but both the check engone and s3 was on. take a voltmeter and make sure your battery and alternator is good. look for 12 volts when car is off and 14 volts when car is on. if it is under 12 - when off, your battery days are numbered

 

I just bought a new Acura battery last month. I doubt its the battery now the alt is a small possibility. Christine also has trouble starting sometimes, it seemed to happen right after the chk engine light came on. So I checked the computer, 10 flashes ( intake temp sensor). I changed my fuel filter yesterday. Would the fuel injectors cause a starting problem accompanied by the chk engine light ??

 

Put the old coolant sensor back in, bleed air out of system & try it.

 

Ok I'll bleeding the system. Where is the bleeder screw ??
Would air in the system cause chk engine light and s3 to activate and annoy the hell out of me ??

 

Yes,, air in the system will cause a number of strange things.

 

Anyone know where the bleeder screw is to let the air out of the system ??

 

Put the old coolant sensor back in, bleed air out of system & try it.

Yo Johnny2 you da man:bowdown: :bowdown:
I put the old sensor back in and now everythings back to normal, chk engine lights and S3 are both out and she starts right up as before. I'm assuming the new sensor I bought is defective, I will be going back to the dealer for a big fight to get my refund

 

can air in da system cause temp to rise?

 

Yes, it will/can cause overheating.

 

Yes, it will/can cause overheating.

thanks...ive been having overheating prob latly, though and might be a blown hg.
2 more thing.
1) whats the proper way to bleed the system?
2)if i find black floating thing in da side resovoir tank(seems like carbon) can that be a possibilty of bhg?
thanks in advance

 

s3?

 

smartjay you have a blown headgasket. the black stuff your seeing in your overflow is oil. your head has blow the gasket and now the oil,piston, or coolant passages are connected in any order. check your oil if might have white stuff in it. right now the cheapest choice is to replace it with a JDM engine. do a search you can find some info on that. or if you want rebuild the old head. but if you have driven the car with the blown head for a long time it could be ****ed.

and to bleed the air you have to loosen the 12mm nipple comeing out of the coolant tube on the cylinder head. it is above the dis.

 

smartjay you have a blown headgasket. the black stuff your seeing in your overflow is oil. your head has blow the gasket and now the oil,piston, or coolant passages are connected in any order. check your oil if might have white stuff in it. right now the cheapest choice is to replace it with a JDM engine. do a search you can find some info on that. or if you want rebuild the old head. but if you have driven the car with the blown head for a long time it could be ****ed.

and to bleed the air you have to loosen the 12mm nipple comeing out of the coolant tube on the cylinder head. it is above the dis.

thanks...i found one on ebay located at miami,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6770&item=2415437426
say i buy this engine, what else would i need? ECU? ect...
and how long/complicated would this be to swap the engines
final question, this just started recently like since 2 months ago, how long would i be able to drive before it wont acualy run.
thanks in advance

 

If your satisfied it's a blown H.G. get some stop leak & pour in the radiator, it usually stops the leak for quite a while.

 

If your satisfied it's a blown H.G. get some stop leak & pour in the radiator, it usually stops the leak for quite a while. [/QUOTE

I have a coolant leak coming from the freeze plug/ expansion plug (the plug that keeps the engine block from cracking) its not a really significant leak. Question is would the stop leak work on this??
This is a $ 700 repair from what I understand... :eek2:

 

if you can tolerate the leak maybe live with it.

From what i hear, these stop leaks will stop the leak now but it might eventually, begin clogging radiators, especially if they are old, and at worst seize your water pump and bust or jump your timing belt. Ugh!!!!

A lot of these chemicals are a cheap fix to a car you want to dump soon.