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Just how bad do you want these headers?

  • For sure 100% (fo sheizzy my neazzy)

    Votes: 65 33%
  • probably 75%+ depends on price and gains (holla)

    Votes: 91 46%
  • if i falls into some money maybe 50/50%(you just crazy like a woman and don tknow what you want)

    Votes: 28 14%
  • cool but cant afford (dats wack)25%-

    Votes: 16 8%
701 - 720 of 1,500 Posts
swift said:
oh Gsteg, i though you were running alchol with a side of propane injection...dang.

IS our ECU messing up with boost or air/fuel....'cause comptech makes a sensor to trick our ECU into thinking there is no boost. I think it is used on TL and CL??
Yes, you're correct. Competch does have a MAP sensor that tricks the ECU.
Didn't Kyle use a similar sensor?

k.h.
 
Discussion starter · #702 ·
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I appreciate the thoughts here guys, but I am after many goals that seem easy until everyone sets the bar higher and higher including myself. I can not please all of you nor do I aim to, but I am trying to make a KIT. For most of you- would you ever pay what it would cost to make a TT setup like the one we see here? I dont think you would drop that kind of $ on a Legend. Maybe I am wrong. I am making a kit that should be easy to install for the average car guy like myself. I can admit this is far from perfect, but it is a ton of progress over the last setup. It is easy to bolt on and take apart up to this point. This is the first kit which means it will be a rough set up. If I can beat the numbers over the last one I will consider this a success. I aim to do so. There are so many improvements that you will probably not every notice until you work on this like I did on the last setup. The Godfather is right that this design(Log Style) is efficient. However, equal length is ideal but up to this point I am not trying to pinch HP outta it yet. How much are you willing to pay for minimal gains? I wish that that you guys would have showed me how it is done because it is so damn easy. I am still waiting for the next running FI 2nd Gen Legend. Many of you guys have spent sooo much money for far less gains-DV8 what do you think you will gain from some headers off of your 3.5 swap, and how much did you spend? I am up to about 3Gs and my cost to hp/tq will by far exceed yours. I wish you would have put that $ time and energy to something we all could have used like this. I could drop a SBC in this car and whip all of us, but I am trying to help everyone. There are more pics some where, and one of the pully also.
Swift, could you please post those.
Thanks, Kyle
 
If engine management is the issue, why not get a full standalone like the EMS or haltech?

Esp. if the turbo guys are spending 5K+ on the custom setups, they should invest alot of that into tuning.
 
sr79labrat said:
Keith, that is a check valve. I fixed that problem so I can hit any amount of boost so far no prob. even at lower elevations.
You can get them at Walmart for $1.88
KTW
P.S.
Keith-did you get those pics?
Nah, man...
I haven't received anything.
Did you reply to the anti-spam email?

k.h.
 
sr79labrat said:
Keith, I dont know how to reply to it to get it off.
Thx, KTW
I PM'd you for your email address.
I'll add you on my white list.

k.h.
 
sr79labrat said:
Many of you guys have spent sooo much money for far less gains-DV8 what do you think you will gain from some headers off of your 3.5 swap, and how much did you spend? I am up to about 3Gs and my cost to hp/tq will by far exceed yours. I wish you would have put that $ time and energy to something we all could have used like this.
Bro its very simple, I use nitrous and my highest yield to date(sig) is far greater than you have achived with the first turbo run. A nitrous kit costs $600 at most.

In comparrisons the 3.5 N/A puts down close to what you put down with the Turbo and the N/A has better RPM ranges. I spent around 2500. Additional 1500 for the 6spd convo.

-I pioneered the first (forum known)Type II swap on the old forums
-Pushed the limits of nitrous on the c32
-Build CAI's and Downpipes Legend owners Dynoed true
-3.5 lt RL conversion
-first to have brought the 6spd swap to light in detail on these or any legend forum
-First LSD install
headers......

the list can go on and on....so dont tell me i dont make for the people.My experiences alone save people money or let them spend it wisley.

I havent' knocked you for tring and even went to the length of telling you that the newer log manifold will work better, i just wish you'd spend a little more and get it right the first time.

~TRu Hybrid
 
My question is, why does it look like you're going to send the manifolds back and have the piping loop around to the front just like before? You're making manifolds, why no have them come out towards the front and save space between the cylinder head and the turbine exhaust inlet?
 
Discussion starter · #715 ·
This style of manifold is called a blow through log design. The driver side manifold goes down to the back and crosses over to the pass. side and runs through it where piping enlarges from 2.0 to 2.5 going into the turbo. The piping is routed as far away as possible from all wiring.
DV8 it is almost impossible to compare what you have 3.5(almost new) with 6spd and N2O to a 3.2(165K) auto(165K) turbo setup. When I redyno and have my engine work done we will talk more numbers. You will want to have a built 3.2 after I am done with mine. You know I could easily throw a large shot of N2O on to my car or disconnect the waste gate vacumm hose and put your numbers to waste. I am aiming towards a driveable setup with good gains. This setup will be capable of 550 flywheel hp minus the engine, tranny ect. I dont see how you do not get it. Maybe that is why I dont understand. There are only minimal gains from a dif. in designs.

Thanks, Kyle
 
Turbo spool will still be horrid, and you still haven't explained how you will setup an engine management system. Without an EMS or ignition timing control in conjunction with your SAFC you will be hard pressed to pass 280whp before you start detonating. This is a big assumption, but from what I can tell you merely made the manifold a slightly better design and still are going to have major spool problems since the distance between the combustion and turbo will be 2-3 feet in a little 3.2 liter engine. I hope it works but you still are doing it half-assed. I mean no offense but Gary DePreist's manifold setup is the only way you're going to make a drivable turbo legend that is worth the money, at least make the manifolds come out towards the front, use two smaller turbos and cut the piping distance by ~2 feet. You can reroute wires, using "I'm avoiding wires" as an excuse is not good. Prove me wrong, although I won't be holding my breath. :)
 
sr79labrat said:
This style of manifold is called a blow through log design. The driver side manifold goes down to the back and crosses over to the pass. side and runs through it where piping enlarges from 2.0 to 2.5 going into the turbo. The piping is routed as far away as possible from all wiring.
DV8 it is almost impossible to compare what you have 3.5(almost new) with 6spd and N2O to a 3.2(165K) auto(165K) turbo setup. When I redyno and have my engine work done we will talk more numbers. You will want to have a built 3.2 after I am done with mine. You know I could easily throw a large shot of N2O on to my car or disconnect the waste gate vacumm hose and put your numbers to waste. I am aiming towards a driveable setup with good gains. This setup will be capable of 550 flywheel hp minus the engine, tranny ect. I dont see how you do not get it. Maybe that is why I dont understand. There are only minimal gains from a dif. in designs.

Thanks, Kyle
I usually stay quiet and let people do what they do, however you stepped into a fantasy world, you understand nothing of cars or their mechanics, all you understand is the bullsh!t other morons feed you. Try and do you're own work and make it a quality peice, instead of paying someone else to do it for you. Your whole experience is based on asumptions. Well sir all i have to say is that assuming makes an ASS out of you not me.

~TRu Hybrid
 
k

I just hope it freakin' works...at least better than his last.

But yeah, baby steps and since he IS doing it on his own i am giving him a break.(even though i don't know much..)
 
Dv8 said:
I usually stay quiet and let people do what they do, however you stepped into a fantasy world, you understand nothing of cars or their mechanics, all you understand is the bullsh!t other morons feed you. Try and do you're own work and make it a quality peice, instead of paying someone else to do it for you. Your whole experience is based on asumptions. Well sir all i have to say is that assuming makes an ASS out of you not me.

~TRu Hybrid
I am not meaning to offend you here, but just curious. Why the flame bro? He did come at you a bit aggressive and challenging and make some assuming statements that may not be true. But as we all know he actually has learned alot and pioneered the first working G2 Legend turbo setup shown on these forums, which is an accomplishment, whether he did the work or someone else did. He is now doing all of his own work, and making those new manifolds with his own hands. His new design may not be the best possible, but honestly it will work, and it will work decently well. And it's not like there are other options people have to look at. I'm not taking any side of any arguement, just stating what is there and my opinion.

Dethred said:
Turbo spool will still be horrid, and you still haven't explained how you will setup an engine management system. Without an EMS or ignition timing control in conjunction with your SAFC you will be hard pressed to pass 280whp before you start detonating. This is a big assumption, but from what I can tell you merely made the manifold a slightly better design and still are going to have major spool problems since the distance between the combustion and turbo will be 2-3 feet in a little 3.2 liter engine. I hope it works but you still are doing it half-assed. I mean no offense but Gary DePreist's manifold setup is the only way you're going to make a drivable turbo legend that is worth the money, at least make the manifolds come out towards the front, use two smaller turbos and cut the piping distance by ~2 feet. You can reroute wires, using "I'm avoiding wires" as an excuse is not good. Prove me wrong, although I won't be holding my breath. :)
You have some good points and some assumptions here that may not be true either. The manifold design is much improved, not slightly. It should spool and perform fine. It is true that the closer the turbo is to the exhaust the more energy is available to spool it. However there are many long tube design turbo manifolds which take a decent length before reaching the turbo, and they work great. In our case, the limitation is space. It's not that easy to design something that will even fit at all in the Legend. If anyone would like to make constructive criticism, the best thing would be to draw up and suggest actual possible manifold design ideas that would fit and work to improve on what he has. It's not that easy.

Also do you or anyone have pics of Gary DePriest's manifolds or details of their design? I would love to see them.

I also agree on the engine management point. Especially the FMU part, an FMU is not very accurate at all and stresses the injectors at higher boost with extremely high fuel pressures. A better AFFORDABLE setup would be an safcII with a walbro 255hp fuel pump (<$100) and larger injectors like dsm 450cc's (<$100). However he has no obligation to explain how he will set up an engine management system for us. He is making a turbo kit, that is more than enough on his part, and alot in itself and something to be appreciated becuase thus far there hasn't been one, ever. Most turbo kits do not come with any engine management, you are on your own to pick yours. But personally he is planning on testing the limits of his safc and fmu setup. An SAFCII and fuel pump and larger injectors can usually support up to 10-12psi of boost okay on most hondas. On a Legend that will be almost nearing the safe limit on stock internals for a reliable pump gas street car anyway. The next step doesn't need any explaining, its common sense. It's the same thing as on any other car. You go standalone and a fully built motor, and very few Legend owner's are going to take their cars this far anyway. The SAFCII and other piggybacks are not ideal and crude methods that do work, but how many Legend owners are ready to drop an additional couple thousand for real engine management and then 5-600 for real tuning?

Just my opinion.
 
701 - 720 of 1,500 Posts