[sr79labrat]

Kyle,

Did you check the signal voltage of the map sensor at idle before and after the ESM. If so, what did you get? That would be my first step, because if you get say .5 V at idle before the ESM and then 2.94V after the ESM at idle, then something is wrong. It may be just how our specific ECU is responding or something that needs to be adjusted on the SAFC II.

Maybe I am misunderstanding you and Beav. Do I make the measurements on the ESM where it has prong holes for V testing/adjustment, or on the wires themselves? I am only getting the reading off of the ESM which only changes if I change it myself manually. I called my familys mechanic and he said it should read 2.79-3V at idle. If that is correct would we be doing this entirely backwards? Because that is the idle V reading it would be in vacumm so WOT would be on the other extreem of the range? Right or am I just confusing myself? Either way I am testing the ESM out with a much lower V reading to see if that helps my problem. This is soooo frustrating....you guys willing to fly southwest?
Thanks for the continued help!
KTW

 

[sr79labrat]

I am not quite sure what you are saying here. Make sure the map sensors vaccuum lines are hooked up like stock, no check valves. Did you try reading the output after the ESM with the engine idling? This is what I really need to know so we can know if its hooked up right. Everything should be hooked up like stock except the ESM should be connected inbetween the signal output wire from the map sensor and the maps sensor input on the ecu. Make sure you dont have it connected to the 5 volt reference wire to the map sensor. That would explain the static voltage as well screw things up with the ecu and make you run lean.

The lines are back to stock. To read after the ESM would I just put the prongs of the DVOM on the sensor wire going to the ECU? I have the ESM hooked up with the + going to the ECU +, the - going to the ECU - , and with the sensor wire (I believe would have been the last wire remaining) inbetween the ESM and sensor and on the other side between the ESM and ECU. I have to confess that I made an assumption that the 1st gen NSX and 2nd gen Legend had the same color of wiring for the sensors wires except for the sensor wire. Maybe this is where I messed up?

It does not really matter if you can make boost before WOT because the TPS is not primarily used for calculating fuel, the map sensor is and it will see whatever pressure there is regardless of wether or not you are WOT. What kind of corrections are you running on the SAFC? That could also be messing thinga up since it manipulates the map sensor output, if you are adding fuel at all with safc its going to make things worse and make it throw cels even if you were NA. I would avoid making any corrections with the SAFC for now because its just going to make things worse(at least with stock injectors), it will only make make it run leaner out of boost if you cut fuel or make it throw a CEL that much sooner if you add fuel.

The SAFC was adjusted on a dyno, and it was leaned out a tad until boost started to come on but then we made it run richer as more power was obtained. So maybe I need to start from scratch on the SAFC to get it back to 0 corrections and then shoot from there.

I can definately chip your ecu for you, we need to know what route you are going though, ie are you staying with the FMU or are you willing to test something out with bigger injectors.

Injectors is the way to go I suppose. Were you saying you have access to some DSM injectors? If you can find some and the ECU I will pay you accordingly. What do you say? Let me see if I can find that ECU for now.
Thanks! We....mainly you are making a paved road for future FI legends!
Kyle

 

[Mikey851]

You have done alot for it too Kyle. As a matter of fact, what you have done is 50% of the process and Beav is doing the other 50%, as far as having the ability to turbo a stock Legend and run some fun boost.

I'm gonna look at an ESM wiring diagram and in my Legend manual and tell you the exact wire colors to check.

 

[Mikey851]

Okay so here we go.

The first few tests you should do are assuming that the map sensor is good and the electrical connections at the sensor and pcm are good. If one of these tests fail then we will diagnose if you have something wrong elsewhere. I recommend using a digital multimeter and not an analog voltmeter to protect electrical circuits.

Keep the electrical connector in the map sensor. Back probe the connector at the RED wire with a small sharp needle (don't pierce wire just slide in back of connector) and clip your positive lead to it. Connect your black lead to the negative post of the battery. Turn the key on but leave the engine off. You should get a reading close to WOT or ~3V. Now start the car, you should get a low voltage reading, probably ~.5V or so. If either one of these are dramatically off you could have a problem somewhere else. If they are ok then move on to the ESM.

The modified signal wire from the ESM to the ECU is Green. Connect your positive lead to the end of the Green wire where it is spliced to the Red signal wire that leads to the ECU (but leave the wires connected). Leave black lead on negative battery post. With the key on engine off, you should get the reading which you have set the ESM to (2.93-2.94V). Start the car. You should get a reading similar to the voltage reading you got at the map sensor connector at idle or around .5V (low voltage nonetheless).

If these tests fail then there's definately something wrong and we can work from there. The tests should take you about 10 minutes or less. Let us know what you get and it'll be easier from that point on.

Edit: I believe that the prong for testing on the ESM is just the easy access way to see what you have it set to. I wouldn't trust it for your purpose. Just test at splice between the Green and Red wire.

 

[beav]

Yea, i would definately be measuring at the wires. 2.8ish should be what you see with the key on and engine not running. With the engine idling if you measure at the wire going back to the ecu you definately should see .7 - 1.0 volts dependind on how much vaccuum your engine pulls.

 

[sr79labrat]

I think I can try that tonight. I will let you guys know what happens after that. I am going to try setting the SAFC back to 0 corrections if all of the tests go well. If not then I will consult you guys before further changes.
Thanks again!
Kyle

 

[Mikey851]

Hey Kyle, have you done any tests since your last post?

 

[swift]

yeah kyle! come on man...jeez.


Ps--my first post since i have been back after a month. couldn't have it any other way!:yumyum:

 

[Kenso]

Ps--my first post since i have been back after a month. couldn't have it any other way!:yumyum:

Where you been man? :wavey:

 

[swift]

i will send ya a pm. i got a question for you or two.

o...internet down...for a month. kinda.

latta

 

[beav]

sr79labrat , have you had your car on a wideband o2 at the dyno or on the street to log your AFR under boost yet?

 

[sr79labrat]

Hey guys,

I did get to mess with my car for a short while last night. I turned off all of the corrections for the SAFC and the cel didnt come on for awhile. I think the car is happier running this way but it still needs some tuning. The cel light is coming on still but not as early. I am to still check the electrical connections this weekend. I will also rerun the codes to see if there are new codes or if they are the same.

Hello again Ben!
Thanks guys,
Kyle

 

[91TYPII]

Hey labrat, Just one question for you man. Is there anyway you could just sell your Turbo Manifolds or would you prefer to just sell the whole kit?

 

[sr79labrat]

Hey labrat, Just one question for you man. Is there anyway you could just sell your Turbo Manifolds or would you prefer to just sell the whole kit?

Because so many people are asking.....I am goign to find a guy that can weld and try to get some slammed out. Until then-I just have to find some good reliable help.
Later, Kyle

 

[91TYPII]

Because so many people are asking.....I am goign to find a guy that can weld and try to get some slammed out. Until then-I just have to find some good reliable help.
Later, Kyle

Ok cool keep us updated.

Thanks...

 

[sr79labrat]

Looks like I may have worked out a deal for getting someone to produce the kits for me. I will update with further updates to this matter.

I am also going to attempt to use a missing link for my setup off of a Sabb.
You will find out how this goes as well.

Lata Fellas,
Kyle

 

[swift]

I have been meaning to give you that part i borrowed back...lol.

Anyways if you are having trouble finding people to make the kit just let me know. SOund and performance does there own custom kit for the Scion so i can track down who actually does the building of them.

latta
BEN

 

[sr79labrat]

I have been meaning to give you that part i borrowed back...lol.

Anyways if you are having trouble finding people to make the kit just let me know. SOund and performance does there own custom kit for the Scion so i can track down who actually does the building of them.

latta
BEN

I actually want someone local so if it dosnt work I can physically go to their shop and raise some hell. I am done with shops for the most part, and this will be on my terms. Thanks for offering the help though!
Thanks, Kyle

 

[swift]

I actually want someone local so if it dosnt work I can physically go to their shop and raise some hell. I am done with shops for the most part, and this will be on my terms. Thanks for offering the help though!
Thanks, Kyle

I guess you have found out that people are damn right lazy and have no right owning or running a business. I have had to deal with that plenty already...

good luck and may the force be with you.!

 

[sr79labrat]

Exactly...I am wondering how they stay in business.

Kyle