Acura Legend Forum banner
21 - 40 of 66 Posts
After reading all this I think I am going to change my water pump. I have never experienced any overheating of any kind, but I guess I don't mind the preventive maintenace. I have 170,000km or 102,000miles on my car now and I don't believe the water pump has been changed yet. I haven't been able to find the service record for it (from the previous ownwer's folder). The radiator was changed though.

My question is which water pump is the best to buy. The dealer wants $179.83 Candian which is equivalent to $132.63 USD. Is that a good price and are there any aftermarket waterpumps that are of better quality?
 
Danny said:
After reading all this I think I am going to change my water pump. I have never experienced any overheating of any kind, but I guess I don't mind the preventive maintenace. I have 170,000km or 102,000miles on my car now and I don't believe the water pump has been changed yet. I haven't been able to find the service record for it (from the previous ownwer's folder). The radiator was changed though.

My question is which water pump is the best to buy. The dealer wants $179.83 Candian which is equivalent to $132.63 USD. Is that a good price and are there any aftermarket waterpumps that are of better quality?
Given that the cooling system needs intense attention on our Legends, I wouldn't compromise with remanufactured and/or aftermarket parts. $132.63 is a real good price for OEM, the lowest I can get one (locally) is $200.
 
Thanks Kasteman,

I appreciate the advice and you are probably right.
I think I may be able to get it for about $100 USD after discount. I'll find out this week.
I was told that the 1991-1992 sedan part number is the same as 1993-1994-1995 coupe part number. I asked because I was curious to see how many part numbers they had for the 1991-1995 Legend. Maybe there could have been a new part number that superseded the old one.
 
Jetdoc said:
Justin, I am an A&P mechanic. 16 yrs. exp. I am a Sr. Lead mechanic for a large overnight shipping company with purple tailed airplanes.
Jetdoc, i know which one you're talking about. ;) i'm going to school right now to get my A & P license here in CO. that's what i did in the air force, and it seemed only natural to continue with it.
 
i just wanna say thanks one more time to u guys, with out ur help i probably would of invested in a new head gasket costing me over 1600 dollers, now i know the true problem and i only had to spend 340! thank you so much guys, go to show boys do ur homework before trying to resolve the problem!!!:bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:
 
88legendman said:
I have to admit I was seriously thinking about getting a G2. After reading about the HG probs. I'm thinking twice guys !!:(
If you want something nice, you often have to pay a nice price.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
legendcoupe93 said:
i just wanna say thanks one more time to u guys, with out ur help i probably would of invested in a new head gasket costing me over 1600 dollers, now i know the true problem and i only had to spend 340! thank you so much guys, go to show boys do ur homework before trying to resolve the problem!!!:bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:
thats what we are here for. i got some help a long time ago, and now i try to pass on the info.
 
88legendman said:
So G2rs when the hg goes, is it cheaper to get a another engine or get a new hg ??
there are a few variable in that equation. if you can find an engine in good condition that's cheap, finding a good shop that you trust not to rip you off (shop around). cheapest way is to do the work yourself and just have the heads and block machined at a shop. this will save you hundreds. they can machine the block with the engine in the car. however, you will have to find a way to get the stationary car to that shop, so you'd have to pay for a tow. unless you've got the hookup. do g1 legends not have the hg problems that ours do?
 
tnelson said:
Side theory.
Honda knows this fact. they realized it in 95. but to redesign, build, and refit EVERY legend with a new one, it was just cheaper for them to discontinue the car and move on, with a larger displacement engine, that was redesigned, (ask dv8, RL cooling is slightly different.)
I don't know about this one considering if that was really the case, they wouldn't have used the same Type I again in the First Gen. TL's. (Which started in 1996; 96-98)

I believe, IMO, that it was just a change like most other companies make (i.e. Lexus LS400 --> LS430, 4.0 to 4.3; NSX 3.0 to 3.2; etc..) and also to help set if apart from the "TL" which was a 3.2L.
 
can we do a 3.2 swap from a TL? that would be pimp
 
The C32 perhaps. The J32 would cost you more than it's worth.
 
normally the issue is threefold

(1) engine composition and head composition are slightly different and things expand and different rates, causeing the heads to walk. That walking causes the headgasket to wear away. Toyotas are really famous of that.

(2) Plastic radiators crack and people don't catch the cracks until the fluid level has lowered. By lowering the fluid one creates air pockets in the heads which overheat, change hardness and warp.

(3) Coolant is desined to stop electrolsys. When different metals are near one another in solution, electrical currents eat away at one metal and deposit at the other. What this means is that if you don't change your antifreeze once in awhile, or you use the wrong one, electricity eats small holes that allow coolant to leak around the head gaskets, which often have copper in them.

(4) All water pumps wear out.

(5) city folks are less prone to keep up their fluids than someone who drives 100 miles a day. The person who drives 100 miles a day can't afford to get stranded.. The guy who drives 10 miles doesn't think about checking fluid as often. Also, City folks get more warm up and cool down cycles per mileage driven and this means more times that the heads walk, the radiator expands and contracts etc.
 
Legend water pumps are not "bad". In most cases the pump shaft bearings begin to fail, indicatrd by coolant leaking out the weep hole. The pump continues to operate normal, this is a warning to change it. If the bearings completly fail the pump will "lock up", causing the timing belt to destroy itself. Result, bent valves .In a few cases the impeller comes off the pump shaft and the pump quits pumping, causing the engine to overheat.
 
Low end torque is just a sacrifice that you will have to deal with lol. And yea most of that stuff is required to replace after so long ...parts dont last forever even though we want them to. :p
 
21 - 40 of 66 Posts