So G2rs when the hg goes, is it cheaper to get a another engine or get a new hg ??

 

i just wanna say thanks one more time to u guys, with out ur help i probably would of invested in a new head gasket costing me over 1600 dollers, now i know the true problem and i only had to spend 340! thank you so much guys, go to show boys do ur homework before trying to resolve the problem!!!:bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:

thats what we are here for. i got some help a long time ago, and now i try to pass on the info.

 

So G2rs when the hg goes, is it cheaper to get a another engine or get a new hg ??

there are a few variable in that equation. if you can find an engine in good condition that's cheap, finding a good shop that you trust not to rip you off (shop around). cheapest way is to do the work yourself and just have the heads and block machined at a shop. this will save you hundreds. they can machine the block with the engine in the car. however, you will have to find a way to get the stationary car to that shop, so you'd have to pay for a tow. unless you've got the hookup. do g1 legends not have the hg problems that ours do?

 

Fortunately for us NO we do not have this prob.

I've been reassured the G2 in my future still exists. Although I do like the new TSX or the TL type S !! Which ever way I go I will stay in the Acura family !!

 

Side theory.
Honda knows this fact. they realized it in 95. but to redesign, build, and refit EVERY legend with a new one, it was just cheaper for them to discontinue the car and move on, with a larger displacement engine, that was redesigned, (ask dv8, RL cooling is slightly different.)

I don't know about this one considering if that was really the case, they wouldn't have used the same Type I again in the First Gen. TL's. (Which started in 1996; 96-98)

I believe, IMO, that it was just a change like most other companies make (i.e. Lexus LS400 --> LS430, 4.0 to 4.3; NSX 3.0 to 3.2; etc..) and also to help set if apart from the "TL" which was a 3.2L.

 

can we do a 3.2 swap from a TL? that would be pimp

 

bump

 

The C32 perhaps. The J32 would cost you more than it's worth.

 

normally the issue is threefold

(1) engine composition and head composition are slightly different and things expand and different rates, causeing the heads to walk. That walking causes the headgasket to wear away. Toyotas are really famous of that.

(2) Plastic radiators crack and people don't catch the cracks until the fluid level has lowered. By lowering the fluid one creates air pockets in the heads which overheat, change hardness and warp.

(3) Coolant is desined to stop electrolsys. When different metals are near one another in solution, electrical currents eat away at one metal and deposit at the other. What this means is that if you don't change your antifreeze once in awhile, or you use the wrong one, electricity eats small holes that allow coolant to leak around the head gaskets, which often have copper in them.

(4) All water pumps wear out.

(5) city folks are less prone to keep up their fluids than someone who drives 100 miles a day. The person who drives 100 miles a day can't afford to get stranded.. The guy who drives 10 miles doesn't think about checking fluid as often. Also, City folks get more warm up and cool down cycles per mileage driven and this means more times that the heads walk, the radiator expands and contracts etc.

 

thanks merlin. all good stuff, and true, i was simply expounding my theory that waterpumps might be more of a problem than most people think.

peace
T

 

I dont get it.....if Legend water pumps are so horrible at low RPM's (stop and go traffic) why has the car lasted so long? wow...ok so how can u tell if u have a bad water pump or not?

 

Legend water pumps are not "bad". In most cases the pump shaft bearings begin to fail, indicatrd by coolant leaking out the weep hole. The pump continues to operate normal, this is a warning to change it. If the bearings completly fail the pump will "lock up", causing the timing belt to destroy itself. Result, bent valves .In a few cases the impeller comes off the pump shaft and the pump quits pumping, causing the engine to overheat.

 

Low end torque is just a sacrifice that you will have to deal with lol. And yea most of that stuff is required to replace after so long ...parts dont last forever even though we want them to.

 

yup, i wish parts lasted forever, but they dont, do ya think i need a bigger/aftermarket water pump if i am going to turbo???

 

Legend water pumps are not "bad". In most cases the pump shaft bearings begin to fail, indicatrd by coolant leaking out the weep hole. The pump continues to operate normal, this is a warning to change it. If the bearings completly fail the pump will "lock up", causing the timing belt to destroy itself. Result, bent valves .In a few cases the impeller comes off the pump shaft and the pump quits pumping, causing the engine to overheat.

Where is this weep hole? Would periodically checking this hole help identify a dying waterpump and thus prevent BHG. How do you know when a radiator goes bad? Anything else to check on the system?

Thanks.

 

use your nose to investigate if you smell antifreeze. The weephole is on the bottom of the pump and runs in to a tube/channel that dumps just above the A/C pump. Check your fluid level in the catch bottle weekly. It should be between min and max. The Rad when it cracks is usually on the top near the mounting holes. If you see traces of antifreeze on the top of the radiator it usually means it is cracked.

 

Yep, like Merlin said, it's something that's fairly easy to identify. The coolant smell is unmistakable.

 

K, I have one to solve. I've tried a ton and I'm fed up as hell....with this overheating problem. :vomit:

Basic stuff about my car:
Maintained religiously for 135k miles, first owner. Maintained adequately for 2 years & 43k miles.
Second owner replaced cracked radiator with aftermarket aluminum and the wrong filler neck.

I owned it for 1 year had the t/b done at 182k miles. Then I noticed the upper radiator hose start bulging, so I replaced it. After that it started acting funny temp wise. Overheating about once every 3-4 weeks and it'd go away without adding coolant. I never bled the system after chaging it, so that's probably it. It kept doing it for a long time. My tranny died, got another to replace it asked the shop to replace the HG's since there was 185k miles on them. They said do the t/b while i'm in there if it's needed and the w/p cuz they go out too. I didn't know about the pump but it was fine. Test came back negative, HG's were fine and I had a crank angle sensor melting down.

Worked fine for 1 month, then started again. Eventually looked at the radiator cap. The first rubber seal split spilling coolant and preventing pressure. Got a new cap for the Legend....now it spit out more coolant via the resevoir only. It didn't leak, or drip, just spit it out. Got more caps, same thing. Decided it might be the thermostat. Changed that 4 times, with 2 different types and a lot of coolant. Problem remained the same for a bit, then got worse.

Brought it to the shop to have the cv shafts, w/p and crank angle sensor done *sensor I found out the sensor was wrong? I guess their is another....so no idea what it is called that is melting down. I didn't see it directly. So we left it * K, worked great driving 110 for 40mins back home after fixing it. Shut it off, came back later and it started overheating again, still spit it out the resevoir. Went to the shop, noticed no pressure was in the upper hose, which I'd known for a long time. Measured the cap, wrong one. Grabbed one off a toyota with 13 lbs. Worked, kind of. Much better though. Pressure and all, but still didn't retain any coolant in the upperhose after it cooled. Got a 16lb cap like the toyota one. Worked a bit better, same problem and still overheating.

K, decided to change the lower hose since the new pressure started making coolant come out at the neck of the radiator down there. During that noticed the radiator must have been installed by a dumb guy with a hammer. Neck was all dented and didn't form a seal good enough. Got a new radiator and cap that is OEM.

Here's what it does now:
When I put fluid in, I open the bleed valve and pour till full which never seems to go into the upper radiator hose. Is this right/normal? It was like this with the other radiator. Though when filled to full, a little will squirt out the bleed valve. Then I close it, run the car with cap off till fans come on 2 times. During this, the car sucks down the coolant only later as it expands to come back out the neck and eventually stops. I put the cap on, bleed it if possible, sometimes drive it or shut it off and come back later. It teased me by bumping up then coming down. Since then it's stayed pretty much steady. Though there still isn't any fluid in the upper hose when it's cool, but I hear the cap close the inner valve when I squeeze it sometimes. Also, despite it not having fluid in the upper hose, it still builds sufficent pressure when running. It reaches operating temp as a normal car does, but it doesn't give heat inside after starting from cold for about another 5 minutes after it's at opertating temp. Also, i only get heat inside while the car is running about 1700rpms or more or it goes away.

I haven't yet tried pulling the thermostat out this time with the new stuff done, but before It ran fine without it.....still spit out coolant via resoir, but it never overheated at all. Though as it got colder as you'd expect it couldn't hit operating temp while driving fast. Also when bleeding the system it kind of spurts out kind of like it could be a leak at a cylinder but I have yet to foul a plug, burn with smoke....i could swear i'm not doing something right when it comes to bleeding or a headgasket...but tests say they are fine.

anyway, help me out if you can. so tired of throwing money.
:vomit:

n8

 

have you looked into changing the fans or fan relays. if the fans dont come on, it will cause overheating. this will make the radiator spit coolant etc. it will also create a lot of heat in the top end of the engine. causing the upper hose to expand etc.

 

try checking ur passenger side floor mat for coolet, feel along the bottem of the dash board, put ur hand way up in there and feel all around to see if u find any coolent. i kinda had similar problems, my car kept over heating, the resevior kept boiling over, too much pressure in the top rad hose, ect ect, no BHG, tho 2 mechanics said i did, my spark plugs all look new, and no smoke out the exaust. im almost sure this is the prob, after i replace my heater core, i will replace my temp sending unit, and my fan relays!
best of luck
drew

 

thanks tnelson....i tested the relays they worked fine. All switched when power and ground were applied to the appropriate contacts. Also, there are no leaks inside the car so it's not the heater core.

Anyway, drained the coolant again and bled the system. This time I noted something. I left the cap of for a long time pouring coolant in as needed after it warmed up *didn't stick around to see if the fans turned on, but they weren't for the 10 minutes or so i was there* Anyway, despite bleeding and revving the engine lightly to move the bubbles through, still no coolant or minimal coolant gets in the upper radiator hose. Why? Is that normal or is it saying somethings wrong? Should I have the car on flat ground/incline/decline for bleeding/filling? I've always done about a 10 degree incline. I'm at a loss again.

Though I'm pretty sure it's not the HG's just since bubbles didn't continue to roll out. They did stop and I couldn't add anymore coolant, but it couldn't take in the upper hose.

Sorry about my long ass posts....just fed up.

Thanks guys.

n8

 

K, decided to change the lower hose since the new pressure started making coolant come out at the neck of the radiator down there. During that noticed the radiator must have been installed by a dumb guy with a hammer. Neck was all dented and didn't form a seal good enough. Got a new radiator and cap that is OEM.

I had that same problem, neck was all bent. Doesn't help you any, but it's odd that I had the same problem, coolant leaking through via a dent in the lower neck. Strange. Where did you get the radiator installed? Corwin Honda did mine.

Here's what it does now:
When I put fluid in, I open the bleed valve and pour till full which never seems to go into the upper radiator hose. Is this right/normal? It was like this with the other radiator.

Same thing here. I think it's normal.

It reaches operating temp as a normal car does, but it doesn't give heat inside after starting from cold for about another 5 minutes after it's at opertating temp. Also, i only get heat inside while the car is running about 1700rpms or more or it goes away.

The heater is the first thing to go in the situation of low coolant, and as it circulates with high revs, you get it back.

I haven't yet tried pulling the thermostat out this time with the new stuff done, but before It ran fine without it.....still spit out coolant via resoir, but it never overheated at all. Though as it got colder as you'd expect it couldn't hit operating temp while driving fast. Also when bleeding the system it kind of spurts out kind of like it could be a leak at a cylinder but I have yet to foul a plug, burn with smoke....i could swear i'm not doing something right when it comes to bleeding or a headgasket...but tests say they are fine.

anyway, help me out if you can. so tired of throwing money.
:vomit:

n8

Well, I hope i've given some info. I would raise a suspicious eye to the water pump maybe, although I know the work that's involved (having just DIY'd my timing belt/water pump) Take off the upper right timing belt cover, and look closely at the flat side of the belt for unusual wear. The pump might be going out. The mechanics said it was fine at the time, but you never can tell. You take the timing belt covers off and everything looks brand new, mine did, but nothing was changed for 130K miles!
I know it doesn't jive with what's happening really, but it seems like that's the only thing left to be replaced. If you decide to mess around with anything in that area, I can give you a load of DIY help. I can tear down, change and assemble in under 4 hours. You're just across town anyway, which still baffles me that we have F-M members on here.

 

thanks kasteman.

the only problem is that I had the pump changed not more then 2000 miles ago and it's got a 3 year warranty including labor charge if it fails. The only thing I haven't done is the heads, but nothing really points at them. I mean it could possibly be them, but nothing is making sense anymore..I know the fans work too cuz they'll both turn on when I flip the air on. I supose I sould check the wires going to the relays. They turn on when the A/C is on so I don't need to check those wires, nor do I need to check the wires going to the fans from the relays.

So, I got atleast one thing I can check. If the pumps not pumping, then I'll get the shop to do it since it's covered. I think it's fine, but maybe it's not fully functioning and going out. I don't know.

n8

-though kasteman, i could probably use your help to figure out what sensor it is of mine that is going out and what it takes to replace it-

 

k, back after some tests, but i still need a little help.

My radiator that is new is leaking right in the middle. When I stop moving, pressure builds forcing a small mist out between the fans. I removed them, yep it leaks.

The reason pressure builds when idling is cuz the fans don't turn on. Ok, here's where I need the help. I've searched through wires and all. Mainly i'm having a problem with the coolant temperature sensor. Helms says it's readings should be .5-1.2kOhms. Is this correct? Mine is at 12-25kOhms. So i went to get another. The new one has the same reading only 2kOhms less.

Is the Helms #'s correct? If they are that'd mean the new one I just picked up is bad too, right?

n8

 

My book says at 68 deg F the resistance should be 2000-4000. For -4 deg F it should read 15000-18000. This would explain why the fan doesn't come on.

Jetdoc