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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok this is for those who asked for the instructions. I warn you that it is not easy and should only be attempted by someone with engine knowledge. I checked out the Service Manual and it explains everything, but It doesn't go into detail at all.

Pulley hold
Breaker Bar
4' Hollow pole (I'll explain later")
Set ofRatchets and Sockets
Set of Pliers
Screw Drivers
Jack and stand

And of course you need the parts ;)
Water pump
Tensioner(not necessary)
Timing belt
New acc. belts if you need
Crankshaft Pulley(Since mine broke while I was driving :mad: )
Front Oil Seal (not neccesary)

Here we go, so pay attention.

Drain Coolant:
I found it easier to get under the car to remove the splash guard and remove the drain plug from the radiator. Get someting to catch the coolant and remove the cap to release pressure from the top. While you let the coolant drain continue on to the next step.

Remove the Air box and Intake piping:
Loosen the two large clamps and remove the 10mm bolt on top of the rad. To completely remove the intake also remove vacumn hoses by removing clamps. Unbolt the lower air box.

Remove drive belts:
Alt. belt goes first. Just loosen the 14mm lock bolt at the bottom left of the alt(near engine mount bracket). Loosen the 12mm adjusting bolt and get and loosen the adjusting pin. Remove the belt. Remove the Idler Puller completely by removing the two 12mm bolts holding the bracket in place. Remove the P/S belt by loosen lock bolt 10 or 12mm and loosen adjusting bolt. Remove the belt.

Loosening the crankshaft bolt tightened to 171lbs/ft:
Well my alt. ring on the crankshaft pulley broke so I used a chain holder instead of the Acura one. No need to align the timing yet b/c it's going to move when removeing this bolt. Pult the holder on and lean it against the lower pass. frame because you are going to need two hands unless you have help. Now take out the breaker bar w/ 19mm socket and slide the 4' pole over the breaker bar(The longer the lever arm the easier it will be to remove). While pushing the bar to loosen the bolt tap the pole w/ the hammer. I thought this was going to be hard but it just took two hard taps and it was loose. This is not the hardest part wait till you get to the water pump.

Removing misc. items in the way:
Remove the two upper covers off the engine held in by 10mm bolts. Remove the oil dipstick and holder (one 12mm bolt). Now, that you got the crankshaft bolt turn the pulley, so that the mark for the first cylinder is aligned. Wiggle off the crankshaft pulley. Remove the remaing bolts on the bottom cover and remove it (the seals may stick b/c my CKP/CYP sensor melted and dripped to the bottom of the block). The manual calls for the removeal of the damper, but I found it unnecessary and skipped it. Another thing I skipped was to completely remove the electrical cover b/c it also was not in the way.

Removing Timing belt:
Follow my method of marking the belt and you will get the new belt on properly faster. Get white out and mark the teeth of the belts where they line up w/ timing marks both on camshafts and timing belt drive pulley. Loosen the tensioner w/ 10mm and remove the spring. Remove belt and now that you have the marks, mark up the new belt the same way making sure the correct number of teeth are in between each mark.

Removing the Water Pump:
I would take a break here b/c things gets painful since there's a lot to remove. Honda made this car very hard to service b/c you need to remove the camshaft pulley to acces one losey stinkin bolt. Sorry had to vent. Anyways remove all the (9or10) 10mm and (4) 12 mm bolts from water pump. The two on top of the thermostat housing is also a pain. You need to hold the camshaft pulley and I don't think you can use the Acura one, so get a chained pulley holder. I just used the same one from before and becareful not to damage the teeth of the cam shaft. Remove all three 12mm bolts on and slide it off (Make note of its position). Remove the rear cover (3 10mm bolts). Remove final 10mm bolts. Make sure not to confuse this w/ other bolts or the water pump can leak if you use too long of a bolt. Remove the two hoses and carefully pry away the old water pump.

Remove the oil seal:
You don't need to but since I got every thing off I wanted to. Remove the timing belt drive pulley by remving the pin the holds it from sliding off, and slid off the pulley. Take a flat tip screw driver and pry out the seal from the crankshaft. When installing the new one the manual calls for a speacial tool but I just used a deep socket to carefully hammer in the seal evenly.

Install everything else in reverse. You can figure it put by yourself can't you since you got this far. Ok now when you get to the timing belt you'll thank me. Align the marks that I told you to mark on the new belt with the marks on the rear covers and timing drive belt pulley. Sorry I didn't go into detail on the reinstallation, but this is taking too long. Key point: provide all belts with adequet tension, toque the crankshaft bolt as tight as possible, refill coolant and bleed the system (duh). Est. time 8 hrs( at least for me) and if you never done it probably never. Just kidding. This is my second one I did. First time was on a '94 Sunbird that I did for a friend which was much much much much much much much easier. Hey even GM made the design easier to service, stupid Honda/Acura. Anyways now that's your done you can brag to everyone that you did the job yourself. Congrats =)

Moderator can make this a sticky. If you need more info. just ask

P.S. my acount is still registered as being born after 1989 so can someone with the authority change that, I am 18 born Feb. 8,1984? I don't want to change names.

Old S*hool Member
2,218 Posts

This is a great post - I'm not sure why it's not in the DIY section. The only other complete set of instructions I found was written by a G1 owner...

***MODS*** please add this the the DIY section. Thanks.

74 Posts
This is a Great DIY

all it needed was pics.. but the instruction is fine! and im thankful for all the research made to stumble upon it.. Im currently in the middle of replacing my TB and WP so this has cleared up some stuff and gave me a good tip on the timing! This should be in the DIY section For G2
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