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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I ask for your help here, not just Mike D, but anyone wiht the knowlege to help a guy out.

I posted a few questions on this in the past, but still having issues. From searching past posts, I have also noticed a few others with a similar problem and am wondering if you guys have fixed it, or what helped?

1993 legend LS sedan, 115,000 miles

The problem -

My torque converter seems to not want to lock up. I can be driving along at 65 and the rpm jumps up about 200. It will stay there for a few miles, sometimes more, then jump back down. This is an intermittant problem, once for sure every trip over 10-20 miles. It will always lock in if I slow down to below 40, then accelerate back to 60.

Since the problem began, the car has had one check engine light, the morning after a 350 mile trip, which I accidentally reset the computer before gettting a reading. I have never had a blinking d4 light, and the tranny works great other that that.

I do not know the cars transmission history for flushes, etc.

ANYONE HELP? What would be the best steps to take to get this thing solved?
 

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try a power flush at the acura dealer.. what I was told is your tran fluid takes longer to warm up compared to your engine oil. so you have to let your car warm up longer..

a power flush is flushing all that junk out of your trans with a machine. I had it done. some say its not good to do but it made mines shift a lot more smoother also my trans is on its last legs anyway but it still pulls strong.
 

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Tranny flush is the answer, I just don't know if it will compound the issue with the tranny going through Tranny Shock. How sensitive are the Legend A/T fluid sensors? I have a manual so I don't have to worry about it. But I work on old school trannies that don't have sensors to cause tranny shock.
Heads up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Power flush or 4X change??

I'm getting confused on what's the best thing to do here?

Should I just do a DIY 4X flush as seen on this site elswhere, or take to the acura dealer and get the real deal, complete power flush?

I being's as most of the shifts are smooth, and there are some trips when the tranny doesn't even bother, I'm not sure how drastic to get. Today on the way to work, my converter didn't lock until about 3 miles, then the engine was at operating temp, it kicked in and never kicked out until I slowed 15 miles later. But last night, I was on a 80 mile round trip, where it went in and out for no apparent reason several times. The last time, came out, and even with no hills, wind, etc, it never locked up again for 10 miles home... motor warm and all. AAAAAGGGGHHH

What to do here? I just put 1200 bucks into it to fix rust and have the leather refinished and now this.

What should I do? A 4X Flush or power flush??? Which has less chance of developing more problems?
 

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the lockup solenoid may have a loose connection on the electrical connector....These sometime are difficult to snap tight....it is located on top of tranny, just a little to the drivers side from the centerline behind all 0f the vacuum lines. You can check the voltages if you have the Helms manual from the connectors near the brake booster.
.
 

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taatjben said:
I'm getting confused on what's the best thing to do here?

Should I just do a DIY 4X flush as seen on this site elswhere, or take to the acura dealer and get the real deal, complete power flush?

I being's as most of the shifts are smooth, and there are some trips when the tranny doesn't even bother, I'm not sure how drastic to get. Today on the way to work, my converter didn't lock until about 3 miles, then the engine was at operating temp, it kicked in and never kicked out until I slowed 15 miles later. But last night, I was on a 80 mile round trip, where it went in and out for no apparent reason several times. The last time, came out, and even with no hills, wind, etc, it never locked up again for 10 miles home... motor warm and all. AAAAAGGGGHHH

What to do here? I just put 1200 bucks into it to fix rust and have the leather refinished and now this.

What should I do? A 4X Flush or power flush??? Which has less chance of developing more problems?
For what it's worth, I had the power flush done by a Honda/GM dealer and my transmission shifts much smoother after. I had this done at almost 100k.
It seems like Honda is now doing power flushes, as opposed to not doing them prior. I don't know why the change of policy but I went for the deal. Furthermore it seems to me that going through that 4X rigmorole flush, even if recommended in the service manual, is not as good as doing a complete change of fluid at one time, if really needed, and the school is still out on the subject of changing transmission fluid and at what intervals. There is also a debate going on about changing the filter located in the transmission oil pan. The service manual does not discuss this but there is a pan gasket filter kit available for changing same.

The power flush cost me $ 125.00.

RAP

PS: Honda currently has an extended warrenty for the TL transmission and that may be the reason for the change in flushing policy. I'm speculating here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
My Plan

Here is my plan..

Check the connections for the Torque converter (more detail on how and where would be great from bigdad)

I am assuming that the ATF fluid was never changed, as I called the dealer who always serviced it before I owned it and they never had it in for a ATF change.

So, my first step, the cheapest and least risky in my opinion, is to do a 3X change with Dexron III, followed by a fourth switch with Genuine Honda, and a bottle of Lubeguard. I am essentially doing a 4X by Gil w/o the "f" fluid for cleaning. I figure if I want to really clean it out, why not flush it later if it doesn't work just to get new clean fluid in there.

Then drive it for a few thousand miles. Hopefully the new fluid and lubeguard will help.

Then, assuming it does not help, go to a honda dealer and have it flushed out and new honda fluid put in.

Anybody think this makes sense for now?
 

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taatjben said:
Here is my plan..

Check the connections for the Torque converter (more detail on how and where would be great from bigdad)

I am assuming that the ATF fluid was never changed, as I called the dealer who always serviced it before I owned it and they never had it in for a ATF change.

So, my first step, the cheapest and least risky in my opinion, is to do a 3X change with Dexron III, followed by a fourth switch with Genuine Honda, and a bottle of Lubeguard. I am essentially doing a 4X by Gil w/o the "f" fluid for cleaning. I figure if I want to really clean it out, why not flush it later if it doesn't work just to get new clean fluid in there.

Then drive it for a few thousand miles. Hopefully the new fluid and lubeguard will help.

Then, assuming it does not help, go to a honda dealer and have it flushed out and new honda fluid put in.

Anybody think this makes sense for now?
Makes perfect sense. Really, if it doesn't help the first time. Don't bother doing the pure honda fluid. At that point, you should be saving for a transmission & TC rebuild/replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The result are in

Well, I changed my fluid yesterday. Dropped the first out, dark red, but no burnt smell, but, signifigant metal shavings around the plug, as expected. I then drove car for 10 miles, dropped the fluid and refilled. I then drove for 25 miles or so, and dropped the third out, and refilled again. The final refill, I added a 10 oz bottle of an additave similar to lubegard to make all my dextron III become like honda's.

To anyone who's taking there car to a mechanic to have the ATF changed, don;t. Its easier than engine oil. The bolt is about 1 1/2 feet behing the front wheels, in the middle of the car, near the exhuast pipe. I actually just used ramps, and accessed it from the passenger side, without even getting under the car.

I have put 40 miles on the car since, and only once did the torque converter jump out of lock when it should not have, and then it locked up again a mile later. I also have noticed that the car does already shift a little smoother, but still has that distinctive solid honda shift into 2nd gear.

I think I have it fixed at this point, I will give you updates as I go.

Thanks to those who helped me with this. I appreciate it greatly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Its Back -

Well, the problem of my torque converter locking and unlocking is back. For about 800 miles worked like a charm with new atf fluid, now, it comes back.

It could be coincidence, but i also had mostly short trips, less than 30 miles at a time, today was my first to put on more than that, and I got the problem again. Also, could be coincidence, but it also is warmer outside today than in the past, instead of 20 degrees or less, about 35 degrees.

Any ideas again?

Thanks, Ben
 

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Torque converter is probably burned out. It happens. You have 2 options, a Level 10 high stall TC that will give you better performance, or you can go with a new stock TC.

Search around for opinions on the Level 10 TC. I know Christian (DV8) has used one in the past.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Expensive?

Is this something that must be done? Or can I drive the car and get a little worse gas mileage and be fine? THe rest of the car works, drives fine. I ahve heard of people just unplugging them and not using them? Does this work?

If I can;t just unplug, then how much would you guess this will set me back?

THanks, Ben
 

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taatjben said:
Is this something that must be done? Or can I drive the car and get a little worse gas mileage and be fine? THe rest of the car works, drives fine. I ahve heard of people just unplugging them and not using them? Does this work?

If I can;t just unplug, then how much would you guess this will set me back?

THanks, Ben
Just drive it until it goes out. I don't fix anything until it REALLY breaks. The guys that were at Nopi in September know this about me :giggle:
 
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