Acura Legend Forum banner
1 - 20 of 37 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,198 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can someone here help me out.....

Lately, I am finding it hard to put my car into gear. When I put the car into first, it is really rough... like it is scraping something on the way in. Same with 1-2 shift. Sometimes it goes in really smooth, but most of the time its rough. I also have to step on the gas to get it to go into gear sometimes from like 5th to 6th.

Also, when I am starting from a dead stop, and I accelerate through first and part of 2nd...., I can hear this squeking/chirping noise.

all this does not seem like it should be happening.... can someone point me in the right direction??

Is it a shift linkage or mount of some sort thats worn, loose or broken.....?? TRanny bad, clutch bad.....>???:rolleyes: :confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,448 Posts
this points to the clutch. You are not getting full disengagement, even though you press in the pedal all the way. First thing to check is the fluid level in the hydraulic system. A bad (leaking) slave cylinder or clutch master cylinder can do this. If that is ok, it is possible to have a broken internal clutch spring (there are several small internal springs) with a piece of it intermittently getting stuck between the drive face and driven face and not allowing complete disengagement of the clutch. That would possible make the screeching noise you hear by not allowing either full disengagement or full engagement with a piece of metal in the way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,198 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
bigdad said:
this points to the clutch. You are not getting full disengagement, even though you press in the pedal all the way. First thing to check is the fluid level in the hydraulic system. A bad (leaking) slave cylinder or clutch master cylinder can do this. If that is ok, it is possible to have a broken internal clutch spring (there are several small internal springs) with a piece of it intermittently getting stuck between the drive face and driven face and not allowing complete disengagement of the clutch. That would possible make the screeching noise you hear by not allowing either full disengagement or full engagement with a piece of metal in the way.
Thanx Bigdad....

So would that also solve why its a bit rough sometimes just selecting gears?? Like I said, sometimes it feels like the shifter is rubbing on a bumb or hitting something on its way into the gate....

That squel is lately getting a little louder....sometimes not so apparent and sometimes it is. How do I check the hydrolic fluid?

Also, do I need a new clutch altogether, or can it be repaired (not likely right:rolleyes: )
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
996 Posts
Hey,

The clutch is a replacement ... pretty expensive, since it's a ***** to get to. The fluid is checked under the hood, on the pass side. It's a smaller version fo the brake fluid container, with a dark grey cap.

As far as grinding on the 1-2 shift, it's likely the synchros, which is probably unrelated to the rest of your problems. I have the same grind, but not any of the other problems (rest of the gears are smooth as silk). Maybe the dude that you bought it from filled the tranny with some crap so it would be good for a while, just till he sold it? Anyway, take it to a tranny shop, and most will do a free inspection, just to get a better idea of what's up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
Actually, I think the clutch fluid reservior is on the driver's side, right in front of the master cylinder. Still has a grey cap, though. The reservior on the passenger side is for the ABS system, I believe.

I checked mine a few weeks ago, and it was way low. Clutch fluid is just DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid, so I dumped some in, and then pumped the clutch in and out a while with the lid off. Then, tighten the lid and go back to driving. I noticed that the shifting was a lot smoother.

Now, I don't know why it was low, but it probably hadn't been checked since the car left the shop back in 1995.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
744 Posts
Mckenzie93, long time.

She ite, son. Seems as if you have run into a bit of bad karma lately.

I too experienced a shift from 1st into 2nd that was a bit rough. I did replace my rear trans mount - but to be honest - that didn't fix the problem, nor did it reduce the vibration at 1500 - 1800.

Almost everytime I shifted from 1st to 2nd, it was rough. I found myself having trouble getting into second (out of 1st was easy) and would often double clutch into second.

UNTIL

I drained the trans fluid and pumped HONDA manual trans fluid (not a generic "for honda" fluid - but from the dealer) - I believe good near 4 bottles.

Since then, shifting greatly improved with each time I drove her. To the point that now... that my rough shifts are a thing of the past.

The chirping noise is not uncommon. My trans / clutch / flywheel chirps. Many people with a stage III and some w/ stage II clutch kits hear some chirping. I suspect the chirping is due to contact from the flywheel on the clutch disc when there is no load and or possibly in your case some debris. I seriously doubt, other than worn synchros that your trans is "bad." Just give dump the fluid and give her some OEM fluid - which is not the easiest thing either cause you have to pump the fluid into the trans from up underneath.

All I know (at this point) is when I'm at a drive thru (for instance) with the radio off... clutch engaged... I hear a constant, repetitive chirp that does dissapear when I release the clutch.

Anyhow, I did buy a clutchmasters stage II 6 puck clutch kit w/ 2500lbs pressure plate that I will be installing myself... within the next week or so. I have heard and have talked with some people who talk smack about having done the clutch job themselves - yet were leary about talking about any special tools required for the job. To my knowledge you need pretty specific tools like a differential shaft puller and installer as well as a ring gear holder for the flywheel.

Have you noticed any clutch slipping? Or more importantly... have you tried or looked for clutch slipping? I say this because If I come out of 1st at say 6k and shift into second before the RPMs drop below 4 and goose the throttle she will slip. However, If I come out of 1st at 6 and let the RPMs drop below 4 and then gently pick up RPMs then she doesn't slip.

KNLNGUS
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,198 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
W..... Long time for sure....

Thanx. As for my clutch slipping, it has not done that. If I bring 1st right up to the redline and shift into second, its a very strong shift, kind of like a catipult. Same with every other gear. About two weeks ago I took my car to my mechanic and he changed my oil..... but probably not with OEM fluid. He said the diff oil was very clean, and so was the tranny oil.... he said all you put in is regular 5w30 motor oil. :confused: So if I take it to the acura dealer, they will probably just put in motor oil....am I correct?? Or can I request they put in some manual tranny oil.... good luck on your clutch job anyways:)

Trojan Horse.... I will go and check my clutch fluid today and if it needs some, I will fill it a bit. I think I have a bottle of dot 3 brake fluid that is sitting around somewhere.:) It almost sounds like a "not enough lubricant" kind of squel.... maybe it will help a bit.

Scotch.... I really hope its not the clutch..... Acura will rape me on it I know for sure. I think I might take to them to see if I can get them to find out whats up. I am not sure to many tranny shops have experience with this kind of car:rolleyes: .

Thanx guys..:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
Mckenzie93, be careful using a bottle of DOT3 that you've had lying around for a while. I seem to remember reading somewhere that brake fluid was a dessicant (meaning it draws moisture out of it's surrounding environment), so "old" fluid can sometimes have a fair amount of water in it. For some reason, I remember reading somewhere that once you've cracked open a bottle of brake fluid, you should use it all, or throw away whatever you have left. They sell it in pretty small bottles that should only cost about $3, so you might do better just buying a new bottle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
744 Posts
Thanks for wishing me good luck on my clutch job! I hope your fix is not a warped flywheel or damage to the pressure plate (ergo debris in that area)!

I do know that the trans fluid (HELM) calls for 5w30, HOWEVER, Karen Radley pulls Honda Man. trans fluid out of the bottle from the parts counter stock. Been there and done that with my skirt.

PS. I forgot to mention that I did bleed the clutch master cylinder during my initial troubleshooting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,198 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
KNLNGUS said:
Thanks for wishing me good luck on my clutch job! I hope your fix is not a warped flywheel or damage to the pressure plate (ergo debris in that area)!

I do know that the trans fluid (HELM) calls for 5w30, HOWEVER, Karen Radley pulls Honda Man. trans fluid out of the bottle from the parts counter stock. Been there and done that with my skirt.

PS. I forgot to mention that I did bleed the clutch master cylinder during my initial troubleshooting.
So you are saying go with manual tranny fluid for sure then??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
Found a few references online... brake fluid is indeed hydroscopic. So you should get a new bottle. DOT 4 is better than DOT3, but DOT 5 is the best. Unfortunately, DOT 5 can't be used in most places, because it's silicone based instead of glycol based, so it doesn't lubricate in the same way. If you were to throw DOT 5 into the ABS system, you'd be in for a wild ride!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
744 Posts
Mckenzie93, YEAP. I would rather you place confidence in Honda man trans fluid than to contemplate which may be better (mobil 1, texaco, penzoil, gtx, high viscocity, partially synth, full synth, etc. etc. etc.).

UNLESS....

You are talking about Redline MTL or M90 - than by all means go that route OVER Honda Man trans. The stuff is more expensive and although have been convinced it offers a better edge than OE fluid - I wasn't going to part with the duckets and needed the fluid (then) right away!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,198 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Trojan Horse said:
Found a few references online... brake fluid is indeed hydroscopic. So you should get a new bottle. DOT 4 is better than DOT3, but DOT 5 is the best. Unfortunately, DOT 5 can't be used in most places, because it's silicone based instead of glycol based, so it doesn't lubricate in the same way. If you were to throw DOT 5 into the ABS system, you'd be in for a wild ride!
Thanx..... I was going to ask you if brake fluid was supoosed to be white, but I think you answereed my question. I just went out and checked my clutch fluid level and it was low, so I went downstairs and grabbed my brake fluid, and I started to pour some in, and it was white! I stopped imediately and poured a bit more of it in a cup, and the whole thing was white.....:rolleyes: So now I am going to go and get some new stuff.

KNLNGUS....

I booked my car into Acura on Monday to get the Honda OEM fluid pumped in it. I was talking to the guy and he said that it is a synthetic blend essentially..... and he has had some succes with older vehicles coming in with rough shifting and what not, being fixed by the magic juice:D. I was thinking about putting that redline stuff in, but it seems to expensive, and I can not wait for it as I am getting frustrated with the rough shifting and stuff.... We will see if Acura can do wonder for my legend...

Hopefully putting in some clutch fluid will help a bit maybe.... and then we will see on Monday when acura puts their stuff in.....:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,198 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So I guess all brake fluid is clear then..... I went to the store today and got some Dot 3 brake fluid for like $3, and poured a bit into my clutch master cylinder. There was no fluid above the plastic thingy, so I poured it to the max line.... so far so good. I honestly notice a bit smoother shifting now.

Shouldn't it (clutch fluid) be pumped out and replaced if it is all black and gross, considering new brake fluid is clear?? Just a thought...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,141 Posts
I experienced the same problem with my shifting, putting it in first is really a push, and from 2nd to third is rough too. I thought originally it was my clutch. I have recently replaced my clutch and the symptoms of the gearbox remain the same. I think you might have aged or worn syncros.
ps. I use Redline MTL and it shifts pretty much the same.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,198 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
That kinda sucks that you had to replace your clutch and the problem still persisted. I am thinking that aged synchros is my problem too.....

What about that squeek that I am hearing? Any ideas

Is that my clutch or something else?

THanx:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,198 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
LEO......

Well... there is not really anything more I can describe. As I am letting the clutch out in 1st, and going through second as well, there is this squeek..... almost a creaking sound like two pieces of metal are rubbing together. It has gotten worse lately, not really sure what to think as my clutch is not slipping at all, and it still shifts strong.:confused: I looked in Haynes as well but they say nothing about it...:rolleyes:
 
1 - 20 of 37 Posts
Top