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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Adjusted the exhaust valves, they were all loose, 1/4 turn and the screw had backed off.

I tried to adjust the timing today to no avail. I am not getting any vacuum in hose 4 going into the distributor so I am tracking that down. I appear to be getting vacuum at the three way joint on hose 5 and I don't have a multimeter handy so kinda stuck according to the manual... Wonder if that is contributing to my tapping problems?? The tapping comes and goes even when idling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
If I am reading this right, I believe my problem is a "Ignition Control Solenoid Valve B" --> ummmmmm, anyone known how to look that one up?????
 

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ladelberg said:
Adjusted the exhaust valves, they were all loose, 1/4 turn and the screw had backed off.

I tried to adjust the timing today to no avail. I am not getting any vacuum in hose 4 going into the distributor so I am tracking that down. I appear to be getting vacuum at the three way joint on hose 5 and I don't have a multimeter handy so kinda stuck according to the manual... Wonder if that is contributing to my tapping problems?? The tapping comes and goes even when idling.
There is a torque specification for the valve adjuster lock nuts. Can't recall what it is off the top of my head.

In my experience, the ignition timing adjuster in the "black box" won't adjust the tining much more than +/- 3 degrees or so. How far off is your timing? Vacuum to the distributor? Is there an vacuum advance chamber on it? (I need to pay closer attention next time I'm under the hood).

I doubt that this is contributing to your tapping problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ref: valves, I followed the instructions in the service manual, maybe I will pull the covers off and repeat just to make sure I did not do something crazy/stupid. I don't really think timing will make a difference but I can't understand why they seem to tap worse..

The most I can move the timing is to about 13 BTDC, right between the yellow and red marks. I checked all the vacuum hoses on the distributor, #4 has none and is supposed to. I checked hose 5 at the joint and there is vacuum there, and even checked it at the soleniod where hose 4 connects to hose 12 (which really connects to hose 5) and there is vacuum at 12 but none at 4.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, changed the solenoid but that did not fix the problem.. I am now bedaffled... Suggests are always welcome!!
 

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Look for some obstruction in the hose !!! take it off and try to blow through it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
One of the first things I checked was blockage, thanks for the suggestion. I have traced the vacuum back to the solenoid, there is vacuum present at one side of the solenoid, so it seems it is not being triggered or failing to open or a blockage in the solenoid itself.
 

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Hmmm....

I'd be interested to know how you make out.... What is supposed to trigger this solenoid? What did the yellow light end up indicating ??
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I believe the yellow light was indeed the idle indicator, I tweaked the idle and it went away.

So I am still baffled. I replaced the solenoid and still no vacuum. I played with several solenoids out of the car to see how I could get them to switch (make a harness and connected across the battery) and never got them to switch. The voltages seem right. The last thing it says to do is check the voltage, if it is there, replace the solenoid (did that), otherwise check the ECU which reports no errors... Think I am just going to drive it for a while and see if the ECU comes up with any errors.
 

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MAP

Ladelburg;
According to my 1990 manual, the #4 hose goes to the MAP sensor... If this is the case in yor car, the solenoid would be heat activated and not open until up to operating temperature...
The MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor determines how much vaccuum is in the intake manifold compared to the atmospheric pressure to help the computer determine the proper air/fuel ratio to use...
If the hose does indeed go to the distributor, you will have to check for vaccuum under load...

Hope it helped, but probably didn't... :confused:

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It would seem the 86 is a bit different. The 4 hose runs straight from the solenoid to the distributor advance. The other input to the solenoid is the 12 which comes off the vacuum cannister into the control box and splits in many directions. The vacuum cannister is controlled by the 5 hose which I have verified has vacuum. I have also verified that the 12 hose has vacuum at the input to the solenoid and the solenoid has the proper voltage across it, it certainly seems like I just have a bunch of bad solenoids. Wish I knew how to test them. I put 12 volts across the terminals of three of four different ones and none of them respond while below or pulling vaccuum on the input and none respond. The tempurature part is input to the ECU which controls the voltage which is supposed to actuate the solenoid.

Anyone know how to test them properly?
 

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Sorry... Haven't got a clue as to test it.... The ECU would only give the vaccuum to the distributor starting at a certain RPM under load. That's probably something you are going to have to get the dealer to check as they can use the diagnostic computer to tell the ECU what conditions are being put to it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well, it turns out that the first replacement I put in the box was bad as well. I figured out how to test, my test procedure was correct and I just did not have a good solenoid so they were all failing and I refused to think that they were all bad. I tested all of the ones in the control box and finally found one that passed. So problem solved.

So I am all timed up now. It certainly changed something because all of a sudden, I am billowing blue smoke when cold. Once it is warm, it's not bad. I know the engine needs rings so......
 

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Well, glad to hear that you got the solenoid thing fixed... Sorry to hear about the smoke !!
 
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