[2.7legend]

first off she just hit 225000miles!!!

second i pulled her into the shop and check the front end.
i go to try the right front and that bitch is loose.
the upper control arm is moving.

and even worse i go to autozone for the part.
they told me NEARLY $300!!!
but the lower ball joint is about $15.

so now my best bet is going to the junkers....i know i know...not the right way.
but it's better than nothing.

i've never done suspension work on a honda with f1 racing design.

so .....um how hard is it to do?
it seems easy but i just wanna be prepared.....

and damn just figure...i've been driving like an ass!!!

 

[1990Legend_LS_5spd]

hardest part is getting the upper control arm separtated from the knuckle.

 

[2.7legend]

DAMN!
oh well...should'nt be that hard i'll hit it with a hammer.
thanks man...so thats the hardest huh....

 

[Houston88L]

http://www.net-parts-express.com

Complete upper arms $55.70 plus shipping

 

[GREYLEGEND]

For suspension parts less expensive than OEM remember ALTROM.

 

[DallasLedge89]

Geez! You made it to 225K miles? Can't be originals... are they?

If I could do it, as the saying goes, so can you. I can't recall exactly what I paid, but it seems like it was just around $80-$100 ea. or so from a local import parts place. Aftermarket, not OEM. Fit perfectly.

Autozone has free tools, with deposit. Get the pitman arm puller tool and a can of penetrating oil, like Liquid Wrench (Unless you like beating on stuff loudly with hammers endlessly). Squirt the LW on, let it set a bit, apply the puller, tighten slowly (leaving the nut attached so nothing flies apart violently), and it will seperate with a 'clunk'.

When installing the 2 bushing-mount bolts, which have teeth that will bite into the long narrow steel reinforcing plate, just tighten slowly and evenly. Wait until car is back on the ground before torqueing the long bushing bolt.

Now go have a beer or 2 and congratulate yourself; feel free to crow loudly if you can get anyone to hold still and listen.

And don't put that alignment off... I did and got some inner tire edge wear for my stupidity. Have at and good luck!

BTW... checked the rear upper control arms lately? Emergency manuevers with loose, worn UCAs will kill you, no joke. I was very lucky; almost got me.

 

[2.7legend]

well the way it moved
i belive they are...plus i need it asap so thats my best try.
so the pitman thingy is for the nut that attaches the joint to the knuckle??

okay i looked and it seems the long bolt that attaches the control-arm-to- frame looks difficult.

do i just loosen up that one bolt and i could push it out or do i have to have a wrench or something on the other side??

 

[GREYLEGEND]

You remove the two nuts from under the hood, then the whole arm including the long nut drops out. Once you get the parts first, everything becomes clear.

 

[2.7legend]

oh so there's 2 nuts...not a long bolt??

i'm asking becuase i'm going to the j/y so i'll know what to expect...plus the manual ain't all that helpful.

 

[DallasLedge89]

There's 2 nuts as Grey said, and a long bolt as well. It'll become clear when you get the part. And yes, the pittman thingy is to seperate the joint from the knuckle.

And that net-parts-express price mentioned by Houston88 is a MUCH better deal than I got. JMO, but it's always best to go new with balljoint-type parts. I'd hate to have to do it all over again a year later.

Legend front-ends need to be tight, tight, tight as a... well, use your imagination on that one. Go new on joints, YBGYD.

 

[2.7legend]

okay...
i went to the junkers...was planing on getting a new part BUT went anyway with my dad.

and while walking towards the fords they happened to be carrying a legend with that big ass thing.
then i looks up.
and it was a legend...lil' better condition.

long story short=
the legend had new upper control arms!!!!!!

it was pretty easy that hard part was the cotter pin...lol.
but these were new.

so i grabbed the right side and put it on.

the old one had to be original, becuase this thing was rusted and the hole was VERY big!

but everything came out straight.
thanks for the help guys/gals

 

[john bigonion]

I bought my control arms from delray acura in south florida for about $115, it includes both bushings and ball joint boot. On the diagram it looks like you have to buy the boot seperatly but the new arm does come with it. Yes, new and genuine acura!