youd know if it was your discs as they do it most of the time and especially when you brake

 

My car does the same thing. I replaced both axles and it did not help. My mechanic thinks it is the torque converter. I don't know it is so annoying. I wish someone would find the answer to this problem.

 

BOTH Axles??? What did that cost you!?!?!?!

has he looked at your motor or tranny mounts yet? Torque converter - eek, that sounds expensive...

 

please check you inner cv axles.(not the outter ones that normally go bad.)

 

Alright. I've done a bunch of research based on what people told me here and what I've heard.

I have two things that seem to be very highly probable as the culprit:

A. Problem with my CV axles
B. Wheel Bearings

Again, my tires are replaced and wheels balanced, and the vibration still happens. It's only during acceleration (foot on the gas) and between 45-80+ and it seems to get worse when there is someone sitting in the front passenger seat. It does happen (but not as often) when the front passenger seat is empty. In addition, my car does not veer left or right during the vibration (drives as normal) but it does feel like a deep hard vibration with a grinding/roaring noise.

So, a few questions with these possible culprits:
1. Which one (or something else) do you guys suspect it is based on this info?
2. I'm getting this serviced at the Acura dealer AGAIN tomorrow (Tuesday). What I'm I looking at for cost with this stuff?
3. I'm not that smart with my Acura yet (owned a MB 300E for a long time) but is there something I can do to check?

Basically, I'm just trying to keep cost low and minimize time in the shop as my wife and I (being newlyweds) use only this car.

Thanks again guys! This forum has been extremely beneficial.

 

Alright. I've done a bunch of research based on what people told me here and what I've heard.

I have two things that seem to be very highly probable as the culprit:

A. Problem with my CV axles
B. Wheel Bearings

Again, my tires are replaced and wheels balanced, and the vibration still happens. It's only during acceleration (foot on the gas) and between 45-80+ and it seems to get worse when there is someone sitting in the front passenger seat. It does happen (but not as often) when the front passenger seat is empty. In addition, my car does not veer left or right during the vibration (drives as normal) but it does feel like a deep hard vibration with a grinding/roaring noise.

So, a few questions with these possible culprits:
1. Which one (or something else) do you guys suspect it is based on this info?
2. I'm getting this serviced at the Acura dealer AGAIN tomorrow (Tuesday). What I'm I looking at for cost with this stuff?
3. I'm not that smart with my Acura yet (owned a MB 300E for a long time) but is there something I can do to check?

Basically, I'm just trying to keep cost low and minimize time in the shop as my wife and I (being newlyweds) use only this car.

Thanks again guys! This forum has been extremely beneficial.

sounds like the CV axles are really bad and they might not be manufacture brand. I had some after markets before and that's how mines sounded and drove. also my tire were wearing so it made the problem worse. could be the bearings too they also make a sound.

the price from the dealer could cost you about $400+ from the acura dealer at a specialist it could be lower.

bearings might cost you about $300 + at the dealer

 

sorry to be a gimp but its cv joint not axle and its the outer ones that go bad due to the turning action imposed on them and the fact the when the boot tears they spin all the grease out.. ive noticed that the cv joints on these cars tend to be way chunkier than most which would explain the large amonts of vibration.. rwd drive shafts have a four point spider and when needle bearings go they vibrate like mad and the legend only has a three.. most cv joints have a cage containing up to 6 15mm ball bearings that the axle sits in and only clicks badly when they go... strange

 

Well guys, thanks for all your help. The dealer FINALLY (as if that took long enough) said that its the passenger side inner CV axle. They said (as yetchh said) that all the grease was gone on that one. They tried to persuade me to do the driver side, but I'm thinking, if it looks OK, leave it - as they are charging me $575 a side. Think that's too much?

If so, send me a name of a good indy shop in the NW suburbs of Chicago. Otherwise, our savings just got a nice huge chunk taken out of it.

Thanks guys, I'll let you know if it ACTUALLY fixes the problem, but my guess is that it does.

 

i said to check the inners 5 post previously because i recognised his symtoms and have been thru it many times with my legends.i think $500 whatever is way to much try more like $150 per axle and that's including labor.i purchased my axles from napa for $60 each and they have a lifetime warranty so when they go bad i have them taken off and returned for 2 new one's. i have been doing this for about 10 years. my mechanic charges me $75 for both sides. :eek2:

 

that does sound a little excesive but then i only know nz numbers and its about $120-150nz to replace a cv doesnt matter which(70c US to the NZ dollar) also includes cv

 

i said to check the inners 5 post previously because i recognised his symtoms and have been thru it many times with my legends.i think $500 whatever is way to much try more like $150 per axle and that's including labor.i purchased my axles from napa for $60 each and they have a lifetime warranty so when they go bad i have them taken off and returned for 2 new one's. i have been doing this for about 10 years. my mechanic charges me $75 for both sides. :eek2:

Gosh - well my only problem is trying to find a decent mechanic. Maybe I'll see what I can find online - right now the search is coming up dry !

 

no where is 80mph the speed limit in this country, so you shouldnt have to worry

And just in case anyone comes in here aftewards to research this problem - the vibrations for me occurred even as low as 35mph. I think 90% of the time its higher speed, but depending on where people sit, terrain, etc. it can be much lower.

 

Chupper,
Please post back here and let us know if this fixes your car. I know I told you in that message that mine had quit doing it for a couple weeks and it had not done it again. Two days after I told you that..mine started back up .

I have the exact same symptoms as you but my mechanic said nothing was wrong with my axels and he could'nt find anything else wrong either. Anyway..could you please keep us updated. Thanks and good luck.

 

acura gonna charge more being they are the dealer but you have to think about it. they have better parts!!!

I dealt with those cheap kind before coming from other automovtive shops and I'd rather have the acura brand.
check around your area for a honda acura specialist that's probably the best you can get for a lower price. I had two sides done for $500 at a specailist. still riding strong no rips yet and no click click turning the corner.

 

Chupper,
Please post back here and let us know if this fixes your car. I know I told you in that message that mine had quit doing it for a couple weeks and it had not done it again. Two days after I told you that..mine started back up .

I have the exact same symptoms as you but my mechanic said nothing was wrong with my axels and he could'nt find anything else wrong either. Anyway..could you please keep us updated. Thanks and good luck.

I'll keep you posted - I'm eagerly waiting for them to get the part in. As soon as it comes in my wife is going over there to get it fixed. Hopefully they will get it in the next few hours, or else it will be another day (GRRR). They did say that all the oil had leaked out of that axle, so I'm assuming that's the problem, but I'm still not 100%, so I'm eager to learn if this half a grand repair isn't money down the drain. I have a feeling that is the culprit, but I'll let you guys know once its fixed and I drive on it for 40 miles. Then I'll know for sure.

And legend4life - so you know my problem is intermittent - like yours. It seems that if I'm in stop and go traffic, it will show up around 45mph and above. If it's smooth cruising and no one is sitting in my passenger seat, theres a good chance I won't ever feel it - it really depends.

Yea, and regarding prices. The Acura part (genuine) is like ~$250 - if you throw in a few hours of work that will easily take you to at least $500 with labor and the part. So, I don't know - some people say that they have used Meineke parts or something and they are lifetime guaranteed... well... probably a fine idea, but it seems to be quite a hassle and without knowing a good indy shop, a hopeless option right now.

Like I said, I'll keep ya guys posted.

 

are absolutely sure its not your brakes as i have a jammed rear caliper and warped disc that was intermittent but now its a constant constant vibration except for when i dont apply the brakes for ages and it vibrated the piston back.. thats easy to check too just make sure you give it some good braking then jack up each corner and test the wheel free spin and check for any binding at the same point in rotation

 

drfunk, what are you talking about. the stealer is going to install a reman. one too. chupper i wish you were here in tampa cause i could get that hooked up for you for about $250 or a little less. good luck dude.

 

chupper i wish you were here in tampa cause i could get that hooked up for you for about $250 or a little less. good luck dude.

JNO, I wish I was there too :2cool: - but whatever. That would have saved some cash.

Supposedly that inner CV axel fixed the problem (according to the 'stealers' tech). Now, I still have to test it myself with some driving, but I'll figure that out later.

They said I also have a broken tranny mount (I haven't felt anything that bad) but she said its not something urgent. I decided I took enough out of the savings account for one day.

Right now the total comes to :vomit: $545.00US.

 

drfunk, what are you talking about. the stealer is going to install a reman. one too. chupper i wish you were here in tampa cause i could get that hooked up for you for about $250 or a little less. good luck dude.

WWHHHHAAAAtt the got dag on stealer .. I rarely take mines there anyway but my cv are still good I've had a few front wheel drive cars so I know the hassel of the cv boot with some no good parts. the acura is the first I dealt with that didn't click and feel funny driving after the boot split and the grease leaked out. but other cv felt crazy on mines after they split.
the stealer do have some hot looking ladies working there that is one of my high lights going there.

 

I'll keep you posted - I'm eagerly waiting for them to get the part in. As soon as it comes in my wife is going over there to get it fixed. Hopefully they will get it in the next few hours, or else it will be another day (GRRR). They did say that all the oil had leaked out of that axle, so I'm assuming that's the problem, but I'm still not 100%, so I'm eager to learn if this half a grand repair isn't money down the drain. I have a feeling that is the culprit, but I'll let you guys know once its fixed and I drive on it for 40 miles. Then I'll know for sure.

And legend4life - so you know my problem is intermittent - like yours. It seems that if I'm in stop and go traffic, it will show up around 45mph and above. If it's smooth cruising and no one is sitting in my passenger seat, theres a good chance I won't ever feel it - it really depends.

Yea, and regarding prices. The Acura part (genuine) is like ~$250 - if you throw in a few hours of work that will easily take you to at least $500 with labor and the part. So, I don't know - some people say that they have used Meineke parts or something and they are lifetime guaranteed... well... probably a fine idea, but it seems to be quite a hassle and without knowing a good indy shop, a hopeless option right now.

Like I said, I'll keep ya guys posted.

So yours come and go too huh? I'm curious to see if that inner axel did the trick for you. For you others that think it's tires or brakes...that just does'nt seem likely on mine and chuppers. I only feel the vibrations when the drivetrain is being torqued. If I let up on the gas enough to just maintain a speed, you don't feel it. It's when you accelerate that the vibration comes. It's kinda like a bumping every rotation of the axels. I don't know a good way to describe it but you can really feel it through the gas pedal. ARGGGH

 

So yours come and go too huh? I'm curious to see if that inner axel did the trick for you. For you others that think it's tires or brakes...that just does'nt seem likely on mine and chuppers. I only feel the vibrations when the drivetrain is being torqued. If I let up on the gas enough to just maintain a speed, you don't feel it. It's when you accelerate that the vibration comes. It's kinda like a bumping every rotation of the axels. I don't know a good way to describe it but you can really feel it through the gas pedal. ARGGGH

Alright legend, and anyone else with this problem now or in the future...

Here is the run down:

Last week on Wednesday I noticed a slight vibration during acceleration on the tollway. It was only at high speeds. After arriving at my destination for a brief meeting and returning to the car, I noticed the problem again on the tollway coming back to the office, but with much more intensity.

The problem continued until I had the car's tires replaced and wheels balanced (on Friday). My wife drove to my work (about 15 miles) right after the car was serviced. She got it up to 75mph with NO vibrations. She picked me up, I drove home and for about 10 miles I also felt NO virations (I went up to about 78mph). But, right before getting off, I felt the vibrations again after getting through some stop and go traffic.

The next Tuesday the dealership looked at the car again and said the INNER passenger side CV axle lost all of its oil and was broken. They didn't have the part, so we had to return on Wednesday (yesterday).

They replaced the inner CV axle. (took a few hours and cost $545) My wife came to pick me up, no vibrations. I drove home from work, no vibrations. I drove back to work this morning (Thursday), no vibrations.

So, bottom line, right now it looks like that was my problem. The vibrations were intermittent, which can make it hard to diagnose and hard to tell if its actually been fixed.

As an extra: I've noticed that with two people riding in the car (one on the passenger side with more pressure on that CV) seems to help the vibrations come back.

Well, that's everything I have now. I'm pretty sure the vibrations are gone and that was the culprit, as I've a lot of miles on the car without any further problems.

 

gotta love it.

 

I have listened to many people with this problem. My car did the exact same thing everybody talk about. I replaced brakes, tires, rotors, axles, everything with no luck... until my mechanic suggested the torque converter. I took my car ro Aamco, sure enough the solenoid for the converter was bad. Had it replaced... runs smooth now. Transmission guy said converter was not unlocking right causing it to bind up. That was causing the shutter. Hope this helps everybody.

 

To KCARMACK

Flaring?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I posted this a while back:Has anybody fix or found out about this....
[my car hiccups. It use to only happen when it was cold, but now it happens on and off troughout my stop and go. I'm coming to a stop, my car hiccups as its coming to a stop. As its downshifting.
In other words, as I am pressing the brakes and its downshifting coming to a stop the rpm needle jumps a little bit close to 1rpm and then the car stops and then the rpm needle gets to the normal line. I can feel it as the jumps a little bit along with the rpm's. I already changed my mounts....
any ideas?]

I found this:

[According to the HELM, a 3-4 upshift "flare" could be due to:
Throttle Valve body/throttle valve misadjusted; Linear solenoid defective/damaged; Throttle valve B stuck; 3-4 Shift valve stuck; 3-4 orifice control valve stuck; 4th accumulator defective; Feedpipe O-ring broken.

If the throttle valve B is stuck, the clutches must be inspected for wear. Check oil screen for clog (pieces steel/alum). Inspect oil pump. No contamination found, replace torque converter. The adjusment of the throttle valve body, throttle valve, and linear solenoid affect both shift quality and lock-up clutch operation.

Info from pages 14-76 - 14-79 1992 CPE HELM manual.]

so its called flaring. Hmmmm. Is this accurate. Can it be one of these things?

Thanks,
Dee

Was this happening to you as well...?

 

Yeah now that you mention it, it does hiccupp. I just got the car back from the trans. shop yesterday so i don't know if it still hiccups... haven't drove it enough to tell. I know that i replaced a lot of parts trying to find out where the shutter was coming from. I am just so happy that i fixed that problem.