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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It just accelerates or jumps too fast

its worse when i park on a hill and come back the next day, the car scares me. You have to really press the brakes or otherwise it will crash into something
had this since i got hte problem, never had that problem with any other cars in the morning
when its warm then its fine
 

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**** thats really scary to have poor brakes on a hill. i have the same problem as well after the car is warm enough the brakes work fine. Jiggy89LS you should try to use handbrake when you start your car on a hill in the morning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
its not the brakes

somehow i think fuel pressure increases and causes the car to jump forward or back when in reverse

it might be the tranny also

most likely due to fuel pressure, because the car jumps so much that when I change gears from Park to drive or reverse the tranny shifts really hard....its like a loud boom
when its warm it shifts fine from all gears

thats why I always warm it up a lil before going cuz I dont want tranny damage as a result of the jerk
 

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Jiggy89LS said:
its not the brakes

somehow i think fuel pressure increases and causes the car to jump forward or back when in reverse

it might be the tranny also

most likely due to fuel pressure, because the car jumps so much that when I change gears from Park to drive or reverse the tranny shifts really hard....its like a loud boom
when its warm it shifts fine from all gears

thats why I always warm it up a lil before going cuz I dont want tranny damage as a result of the jerk
fuel pressure is at a constant. if it jerks when cold & not when warm, it's not the fuel. it's in the tranny.
 

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Jiggy89LS said:
besides the jerking, can the tranny also cause rapid acceleration when the car is cold
is your car an auto?

if so how's your AT fluid level? if it's worse when on a hill, my first guess would be to check that. second, the solenoid? 3rd, torque converter???

dont have an auto so i couldnt tell ya where to look to check em
:-(
 

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If the fuel pressure was too high the engine might flood; anyway you would likely get worse performance out of it. Same if its too low.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yeah it is an auto and im sure it will stop working soon, knock on wood

it has 151 k miles

the tourque converter and mounds cost me nearly 800 4 months ago.
the honda atf was just changed last month
and the color is pink
im just thinking of what causes the car to do that, fuel pressure was just an idea
the culprit might be my tranny
just gotta be careful to let it warm up to squeeze the last miles out of the tranny
 

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JUST A THOUGHT!!!!!!!!!!!

I would let the car warm up in the morning. The problem maybe that the fluids are cold transmission fluid, oil etc. Wether its mid summer or mid winter ( especially winter ) when a cars fluids are cold they do not allow the car to perform at it peak resulting in the jerking sensation you feel when you are driving a cold car. You also may want to have the drive shaft axels inspected to make sure they show no signs of wear. In my opinion automatics tend to put more wear on front wheel drive cars than manuals. Your best bet is to let the car warm up for 10-15 minutes than go one about your busy day. Its either that or maybe a new tranny. Just my opinion.:)
 

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Sounds kinda like those old horror stories of the lady who ran over a kid. It went through the old forums a few times a while ago. She said that she put it into reverse and she was holding the brake down as hard as she could but she couldn't stop the car from going.

Maybe there was some truth to it after all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
well the problem is not to that extreme

once the brake is applied the car stops, its just that when the brake is not, the car just goes
 

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simple answer

uh.. i highly doubt it has anything to do with your tranny, brakes, oil pressure..ect... this happens to my car as well, and i think its just the result of higher idling RPMs when your car is not warmed up. In an auto, when u let go of the gas and brake, the car just idles slowly forward..but when the car is cold, the higher idling basically propells the car forward, and pressing extra hard on the brakes is needed to stop the car.

Now when shifting out of park, or into reverse or shifting into ANY drive gear..the car jerks because of the high idle again. The best thing to do is to fully depress on the brake when shifting..and wait for the car to get into gear before letting go of the brake and that should relieve some of the jerking.
 

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My 2 cents...
gathered from a wealth of old vw driving...
ALWAYS let your car war up. Even in summer, let it run for at least 3-5 min. before taking off. Your car will last longer (motor/trans).
Imagine:
have you ever been out in the cold? REAL cold? was it easy for you to move around? (and your body generates heat)...
after you start moving, it gets a little easier, because you warm up.
Think of all the cold fluids and rubber parts (hard/stiff/cold) on your car.
Let it warm up a little and you'd be supprised at how many "problems" will go away.
I usually keep a book/magazine in my car and read a few pages.
Smoke em if ya got em, etc. It's only a couple minutes out of your busy life for the car you love.
blah, blah, run on, run on...:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
see for me its jerks hard when its in reverse than in drive

making me think if my rear tranny mount is bad

but when its warm, all gears shift ok...not as bad as when they are cold

i do press on the brakes hard when changing gears, it doesnt help ease the jerking though
 

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Thank you for posting on my querry on "Transmission Slipping". I do think in some ways our problems are similar. It accelerates wildly because i seem to have no control on the down shift and then it will shift backup. Sometimes it shift all gears and i am not even doing 40 ckicks!!!. I suspect it might be clogging solenoids but have not got to check this out because of the #@**7% weather.
How does one check the torque convertor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
leave the tourque converter to the pros

mine was replaced because it was leaking the atf, hopefully it will prolong the tranny's life

bob, how many miles?
 

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Yup, didn't think torque converter repair was a DIY project. My baby has 378000 kms-227000 miles and has been working fine just a short while ago.
 
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