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ON DAT WAVE
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
all the accessory belts and hoses, spark plugs...

possibly gaskets and little stuff seeing as how you arent sure how many miles are on the motor.
as far as gaskets go, i got a set of OEM heads gaskets and a aftermarket head gasket kit, im not to sure if i wanna/need to change the oil pump, ill be changing the belts that run that aswell but am i missing anything really important cuz i cant think of anything else to add to my list to order:headscrat
 

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One Meeelion HP
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2,907 Posts
Leave the block alone unless you are sending it to the machine shop to get it bored out. The blocks on these are bulletproof and in my opinion you will probably be doing more harm than good by replacing the piston rings. A new set of piston rings would require a fresh hone to seat properly. The factory hone is much better than ANY machine shop could give you, plus you would be removing material from the cylinder unnecessarily. I would leave the oil pump alone also.


You probably want to replace the rear main crank seal, front crank seal, differential input seal, differential output (axle) seal, front transmission input shaft seal, balance shaft belt, oil pan drain bolt gasket etc. Get a tube of hondabond RTV sealant from the dealer, it is much better quality than any RTV you buy at a parts store. Re-do the oil pan mating surface with it (it doesn't use a gasket).

-Matt
 

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ON DAT WAVE
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1,301 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Leave the block alone unless you are sending it to the machine shop to get it bored out. The blocks on these are bulletproof and in my opinion you will probably be doing more harm than good by replacing the piston rings. A new set of piston rings would require a fresh hone to seat properly. The factory hone is much better than ANY machine shop could give you, plus you would be removing material from the cylinder unnecessarily. I would leave the oil pump alone also.

You probably want to replace the rear main crank seal, front crank seal, differential input seal, differential output (axle) seal, front transmission input shaft seal, balance shaft belt, oil pan drain bolt gasket etc. Get a tube of hondabond RTV sealant from the dealer, it is much better quality than any RTV you buy at a parts store. Re-do the oil pan mating surface with it (it doesn't use a gasket).

-Matt
Thanks SR, I was sure there was more i needed
 

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48 Posts
Leave the block alone unless you are sending it to the machine shop to get it bored out. The blocks on these are bulletproof and in my opinion you will probably be doing more harm than good by replacing the piston rings. A new set of piston rings would require a fresh hone to seat properly. The factory hone is much better than ANY machine shop could give you, plus you would be removing material from the cylinder unnecessarily. I would leave the oil pump alone also.

You probably want to replace the rear main crank seal, front crank seal, differential input seal, differential output (axle) seal, front transmission input shaft seal, balance shaft belt, oil pan drain bolt gasket etc. Get a tube of hondabond RTV sealant from the dealer, it is much better quality than any RTV you buy at a parts store. Re-do the oil pan mating surface with it (it doesn't use a gasket).

-Matt
so ditch the engine and get a new one is what you are basically sayin "if" the piston rings were to ever go bad
 

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1,225 Posts
The C32 Series lower block is pretty damn strong. It would surprise me if your rings were bad. In my 6 or so years on here, I cannot remember anyone saying theirs were toast.
 

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19 Posts
my piston rings are kinda toast. . . i dont burn ALOT of oil but enough and i pulled out my coil packs and check the spark plug wells to be sure and those things have a good amount of oil in them. Then again tho i have 240k+ on my legend
 
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