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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm getting some Konis (which I'm going to put on the lowest perch), and some Eibachs. I was looking on Ingalls website and according to it I'm supposed to get the 3557's. But then I called up www.lightningmotorsports.com and they told me that I should get the 3572 and that they don't have the 3557. He told me that it would be $130 for the l&r front.

What do you guys think? It doesn't make much sense to me because it says right on Ingalls website that I should get the 3557. Do you guys think that the other one will be ok?

Is there a possibility that I will have to adjust the rear camber?

Thanks.
 

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Someone postedd before that we should go with either 3572 or 3573. He got the 3573 on his and was satisfied with it. Wait he may post later. Personnaly I be going for the 3573 if available. if not, i'll get the 3572
 

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The 3572 and 3573 are the same kit, only the 72 uses urethane bushings, while the 73 uses rubber. I have the 73, and my friend has the 72. His car does seem to feel a bit stiffer. I got the 73 because urethane bushings tend to start squeeking soooner, and need to be lubricated more often. THe rubber ones also suffer from squeeking eventually, but you can go a longer interval between lubrication. The rubber also supposed to have a close to stock ride quality, although stiffer springs and shocks would pretty much mask its effects. The 3557 you speak of also can be used, but offers up to 1 1/4 positive correction I believe. If you need more possitive correction, you need the 3572/3, as that offers 1 1/4 - 3 degrees of positive correction.

PS, I meant to say I got the 73, not the 72. I eddited edited my post above.
 

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Thanks for that important info Chris. so would it make a difference in which kit I get for a sedan or do both basically do the same thing besides one being rubber and the other being urethane?
 

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Correct me if I am wrong, I thought the 3557 has more positive camber adjustment than the 357x series. Did I mess up on my order? A friend did a group buy for me and the company sent him a set of camber kits made for older model integras and accords. I sent it back to get the 3557s. I checked up on the ingalls website, and called them. They told me the 3557s are suppose to raise the car up (which I need) as well. Someone get me straight. My car now is riding with -4 degrees on both front tires.. really great for autocrossing, but it's killing my wallet on 18" sized tires
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yeah Xenon, I think that you are right.... I was looking on Ingalls website and it looks like ChrisK may have been thinking of the 3555's when he was talking about the 3557's cause those 3555's only do 1.25 degrees. Hmmm, I think from the sounds of it, the 3557's or the 3572's will both work, I just kinda want to hear from people that have both and decide which ones I want more.
 

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Yep, I probably mixed the two up, as I was just refering to the original post which had that 57 #. I didn't actually check the #s on the website. I just rememberd that one of the 5X series had less adjustments. But I don't see why anyone one need anything more than +3 degrees correction anyway, since you already have to shave so much of the upper A arm with just 3 degrees. I can only imagine how much more shaving of the upper A arm you would need if you went more than that.
 

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ChrisK, what you do mean by Shaving the upper A-arm? What did you have to shave off?

Well, like I said, i am running at -4 degrees camber on both sides, my car looks like a jap-slammed car, no joke. My tires are really dying. My last set of tires (215/35/18 Paradas used on one season of AXing) actually had giant KNOTS and tore on the sidewalls from the excessive wear. I was riding on rim for 1 mile!! I finally decided to go with a bigger diameter tire (225/40/18 Kumhos for AXing) so that my car doesnt have to sit soo low. I havent installed my 3557 (rubber bushing type) onto my car yet. I am afraid that I might not have enough fender well clearance for the camber kit... What did you have to do with your kit Chris?:confused: :eek: :rolleyes:
 

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Speed, my email is [email protected]

As for shaving the upper A arm, you will have to shave down the pointed area near the ball joint.

The arm looks like an A right? Well, there is only so much room between the point of the A, and the fender. As you correct camber, you are actually bringing that A arm outward. When you reach a correction of about 1.5 degrees, the A arm starts to touch the fender. The more you go out, the more material you have to shave off the point area of the A arm to clear the fender. If you shave a little bit off, you should still have a strong arm, but if you start shaving off too much material, the A arm might get too weak. I don't know how much material is too much though. I feel the 3 degrees correction is about the max you could go, as at that point you do shave off quite a bit of material, but it doesn't look too bad. The front OEM spec for camber allows up to 1 degree negetive, so as long as you get back to within that 0-negetive 1 degree, you should be okay.
 

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it's sounds like the application you are using is the 3757s where the camber kit is mounted to the pivot points of the A-arm (the leg ends). The one I have is a ball joint, (the top of the A) so I am sliding out the knuckle instead of the whole A-arm. I doubt I would have to shave off anything, at most, the knuckle would lengthen from the camber kit, rasing my car a bit.. I just hope that the rubber bushing has clearance for the tires. I do appreciate the warning, I will check out my car tomorrow and see how the 3557s work on my slammed legend. THANKS everyone
 

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it's sounds like the application you are using is the 3757s where the camber kit is mounted to the pivot points of the A-arm (the leg ends). The one I have is a ball joint, (the top of the A) so I am sliding out the knuckle instead of the whole A-arm. I doubt I would have to shave off anything, at most, the knuckle would lengthen from the camber kit, rasing my car a bit.. I just hope that the rubber bushing has clearance for the tires. I do appreciate the warning, I will check out my car tomorrow and see how the 3557s work on my slammed legend. THANKS everyone
 

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xenonk said:
it's sounds like the application you are using is the 3757s where the camber kit is mounted to the pivot points of the A-arm (the leg ends). The one I have is a ball joint, (the top of the A) so I am sliding out the knuckle instead of the whole A-arm. I doubt I would have to shave off anything, at most, the knuckle would lengthen from the camber kit, rasing my car a bit.. I just hope that the rubber bushing has clearance for the tires. I do appreciate the warning, I will check out my car tomorrow and see how the 3557s work on my slammed legend. THANKS everyone
Nope, it's definately the 3573, as that is what the original box says. Also, my friend has the 3572 which works the same way, and another 2 friends have teh 3573 as well. But you are right, those kits to attach to the pivot points of the A arm, so you the kit comes with a totol of 4 pieces (two for each side).

Which kit do you have that attaches to the ball joint? I wouldn't mid seeing pictures of that one, as that soulds like a good option, even though I no longer need it since I raised my car back up and only have a mild drop now.
 

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This is the picture of the 3557 (also works for the 1998-2002 Honda Accords since they are also Double Wishbone Suspension), which mounts from the upper Control A-arm to the Steering Knuckle (the curved piece of steel that connects to the rest of the hub assembly). The 3557 mounts at the top of the "A" on the A-arm (or apex/point). The camber kit slides from in to out using a two-piece shim attachment and a rubber ball joint. The 3557 can correct up to +4 Degrees of camber (which I need since I am past -4 degrees on my wheels, OUCH~:mad: ) Basically this kit pulls the steering knuckle out, without moving the whole upper Control A-arm like the other 3572/3 kit. Advantage? The 3557 has more adjustable angle and prolly you wont have to shave the upper Control A-arm as you would end up doing for the 3572/3 kit, but still need to check for clearance since your pulling the steering knuckle out towards the fender walls. Most likely, I would have to remove some part of the fender lining (the plastic cover piece in the wheel well that protects water and debris hitting the underside of the steel fender metal. Here is the link for the camber kit that I bought:
http://www.ingallseng.com/parts/3557.htm
here is the other 3572/3 kit that is more universal for Honda cars:
http://www.ingallseng.com/parts/3572.html

To my understanding, the 3572/3 kit are mounted at the pivot points of the Upper Control A-arm (where the "legs" of the A-arm is connected to the body). This kit is where the prolong sqeaking will occur later and will need lubrication since thats where the control will do all the moving around. I also imagine that this kit will endure a lot of stress in the days of driving. I dont know how well Ingalls designed this kit, since i do a lot of autocrossing, and a lot of things on my car can take a beating. I would opted to use the stock pivot bolts/bearings since they are made from Honda , Honda=reliable part, all except for their lousy altenators
:rolleyes:)

I bought my kit (pair) for $170 from a group buy (50% off). Normally, one side is $170 without shipping. I got my neighbor to buy it (1998 Accord) for me since I wasn't sure which BG he went to get it from. I also caught the group buy at the last minute. The people who sold me my kit sent me the 3572. That company said that they've been selling these kits for ages, but to me, if I can find parts that are meant to be fitted for my car, I rather get it because I need this car to be reliable and I dont want to be held responisble for my own stupidity. I rather get my stuff right and get the parts that were meant for my car.

Check it, If I still wrong, correct me, I hate being wrong, especially when it's my money I am ending up wasting.
Xenonk
 
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