Sounds like a good deal considering you only change it every 7500 miles and 15000 miles respectively. With the NSX Oil Filter and 20W-50 Full Synthetic, I change it every 5000-7500 Miles. Cuz, it becomes very costly ($0.90/quart less than the Amsoil that you have) to have it done by someone else!LegendC said:I made the switch to Amsoil with 130K on my 94. I bought the engine flush stuff and the high-filtration filter as well from their site. Runs great with the stuff and I plan on just changing my filter at 7500 miles, oil at 15000. I bought the 7500 Series stuff...like 5.40 a Quart.
what I've heard is that there will be too much polymer if it is not mineral based. Polymer makes oil more liquid when cold but can sometimes break the oil film when hot. However, they've also stated that synthetics don't have this problem.Alexander said:My friend that worked with Castrol before recommends me to use any 0W-xx oil, because all oil manufacturers put their best formula or additives on their 0W-xx. So, I might soon switched to that oil soon. I will specifically try to use 0W40 from Mobil 1 European Car Formula. Hopefully my engine didn't smoke oil after the switch, hehehhee.............
I've tried heavier oil before too, but I've gotten much better results(in terms of acceleration, cold start, and smoothness) with Volvaline Maxlife 5w-30, 10w-30.asianlegend said:5W30? Should I be switching down to that? I've been using 20W50, which is pretty much what I've used for all cars over 75K.
Nope, no problem like that. At least that's what he said. And he's driving his car hard, very very hard, took it to the track too. So, he's not just another guy around the block who's selling oil.claus44 said:
what I've heard is that there will be too much polymer if it is not mineral based. Polymer makes oil more liquid when cold but can sometimes break the oil film when hot. However, they've also stated that synthetics don't have this problem.
You've got a point in regards to weight, I suppose if my car has any holes in the rings or cylinder walls, then the 20W-50 would help it greatly in starting, but if I don't got that problem, then I should try a less weight. I think I'll do it, cuz, 20W-50 is not easy to find in Synthetic over the shelf. I mostly see 0W, 5W-30, 5W-50, and 10W-30.claus44 said:
I've tried heavier oil before too, but I've gotten much better results(in terms of acceleration, cold start, and smoothness) with Volvaline Maxlife 5w-30, 10w-30.
I am not really sure. You have to play with it all. Cuz, at 3000 miles, the oil in my tank is still clean, so what's the point of draining clean oil, especially when synthetic costs at least $4.00/qt and at least $49 for someone else to do it for you. If you drive like I do (100 mi/day), that's an easy $49/mo just for oil added with the cost of gas, it becomes insanely high for me if I did it every 3000 miles.SpeedDemon said:Wow, it sounds like you guys really recommend using synthetic. If I want to make the switch where should I go to have the other stuff flushed out really well (how necessary is this?)? Also, how often should I change my oil if I use synthetic? I do it every 3000 right now with my regular stuff, should I maybe do it every 6000 with synthetic? I'd always rather play it on the safeside.
