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Why our main relay fails (long)....

2.4K views 9 replies 9 participants last post by  G5Legend  
#1 ·
OK, after seeing this link about repairing a bad main relay ( http://www.markl.f9.co.uk/howto/electrical/main-relay/main-relay.htm ) that was posted in another thread, I became curious as to why our main relays fail. I decided to take my bad main relay, which I had lying around, and have it microsectioned in the Failure Analysis / Reliability Lab where I work. (For those of you who don't know, which is probably all, I work as a Quality Engineer in a plant that manufactures printed circuit boards.) The microsection I had performed was a vertical microsection, where we cut the PCB (printed circuit board) and the component lead at the point of failure vertically (90 degrees) relative to the PCB. What we saw was what is called a circumferential crack in the solder joint around the component lead. The crack occurs at the edge of the through hole on the PCB where the component lead goes through. The failure is an intermittent one, because there is still electrical continuity at ambient temperatures. As soon as the temperature elevates in the car, the component leads, printed circuit board, and solder joints all heat up and expand at different rates, and the crack opens up and electrical continuity is lost.

Why did the crack develop in the first place? Because of something called a CTE (coefficient of thermal expansion) mismatch between the component leads, solder, and the PCB. With a CTE mismatch, the components involved all expand and contract at different rates with the temperature. The mismatch over time will crack solder joints, and affected components. This coupled with the fact that the printed circuit board used is a cheaper single sided (copper conductor traces on one side) as opposed to more expensive double sided (copper conductor traces on both sides) board exacerbates the problem because the solder joint between the lead and the PCB is miniscule. ( With a double sided PCB, the solder joint occurs along the length of the lead all the way through the PCB instead of just one side.)

Anyway, if anyone is interested, I have a Word file with photos taken during the analysis that shows the actual crack that I can e-mail. If someone wants to host my photos, feel free to - just let me know.

By the way, the repair indicated in the above link is a valid one, if anyone cares to undertake the repair. The dark "ring" shown is the actual circumferential crack.
 
#3 ·
Chuckee.....

EXCELLENT work! I really get off on stuff like this. Fantastic job!

:bowdown:

I suspected this same kind of thing going on with my speed sensor in the speedometer head. I went and re-flowed all the solder joints and my intermittent cruise control problem disappeared.
 
#4 ·
That is superb work. Thanks for taking the time to keep us informed.
Right now at the clinic I work at we are developing a clinical treatment program for people whose attachment to ageing luxury sports vehicles outweighs practical considerations of cost of repairs. I'll let you know when we have results.
 
#7 ·
Re: Chuckee.....

paulo57509 said:
EXCELLENT work! I really get off on stuff like this. Fantastic job!

:bowdown:

I suspected this same kind of thing going on with my speed sensor in the speedometer head. I went and re-flowed all the solder joints and my intermittent cruise control problem disappeared.
I tried reflowing my main relay and the problem is still with me. The fact is reflowing failed solder joints will fail again because of the existence of bad particles that remain in the joint. I'm gonna try doing it the right way when the weather gets cooler than HELL!!!!
 
#8 ·
The best way to reflow is to suck the old solder out and resolder with a good solder containing flux after you rough up the terminals a bit. If you just reheat and reflow you risk not getting proper wetting. Some points on the relay are quite large and depending on your solder skill, might require a 45 watt tip to properly resolder. I used a 30 and some spots are tricky becareful if you use a 45 though as you could lift some small spots if you overheat it. Be gentle but consistent.
 
#9 ·
Potential alternative fix - Venting the Main Relay (no guarantees)

I read an excellent post by GreyLegend about reworking the solder joints in the main relay. After I extracted my main relay and took a look at the solder joints, I realized that I really have no business trying to muck around with the solder joints.

I, however, ran across a small Honda web site that suggested that venting the main relay casing often would help with the heat problem. Given that I own a drill and know how to use it, I promptly drilled 6 venting holes in the casing.

So far, this maneuver has worked for me. The car has not died recently AND it has been very hot recently in my neck of the woods.

Sorry, no guarantees that this is a long term solution.
 
#10 ·
88legendMaroon said:
I read an excellent post by GreyLegend about reworking the solder joints in the main relay. After I extracted my main relay and took a look at the solder joints, I realized that I really have no business trying to muck around with the solder joints.

I, however, ran across a small Honda web site that suggested that venting the main relay casing often would help with the heat problem. Given that I own a drill and know how to use it, I promptly drilled 6 venting holes in the casing.

So far, this maneuver has worked for me. The car has not died recently AND it has been very hot recently in my neck of the woods.

Sorry, no guarantees that this is a long term solution.
Only 6 holes? I'd put 22 BB-size holes since 2000 and the main relay still works fine, except for one or two no-starts. First, I thought I might get some dust in there but nothing like that ever happened. I was also thinking of putting a CPU fan on the main relay without the holes but I didn't. The best way to go is soldering.