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Acura Window regulators suck......

Last time it was the left side, now it's the right side. And they want your left kidney for it too. $420 here in Canada. :mad:

Fortunately I found a rebuilt one online.

Does anyone know how to install one, or point me to the right direction.

Any help is appreciated.

Will.
 

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Freewilly said:
Acura Window regulators suck......

Last time it was the left side, now it's the right side. And they want your left kidney for it too. $420 here in Canada. :mad:

Fortunately I found a rebuilt one online.

Does anyone know how to install one, or point me to the right direction.

Any help is appreciated.

Will.
Search is your friend!!! This thread
 

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Freewilly said:
Acura Window regulators suck......

Last time it was the left side, now it's the right side. And they want your left kidney for it too. $420 here in Canada. :mad:
Acura regulators don't suck, just the RL's. LoL! Especially the rears.
 

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The nylon components on these window regulators are garbage. I've had both rear window regulators break within one year. I replaced the passenger side (1st one to break) with one purchased at eBay ($175). When the second one (driver side) broke I just took the regulator & motor out and secured the window in the closed position with zip ties. I was not about to spend $ on another regulator with the same nylon components so that they can break again. It's been a year now and the passenger window is starting to make noise. I think that it's only a matter of time before it breaks.
I've been thinking of ways to improve on the Acura design for these components and finally was able to replace the top wheel (the one that has been the weak link in my case) with metal wheels which I think will last for as long as I own the car.
I've now restored both broken regulators with metal wheels and they're back in the car.

BTW the nylon piece that attaches to the top end of the slide bar to hold the cable casing also ripped apart on both regulatros when the nylon wheels broke off. I've also found a work around for these.
 

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Notice on first image how the pulley wheel is mangled and the cable casing restraint is also damaged.
On the second picture you'll see the replacement metal pulley wheel and the cable casing restraint has been removed and replaced with a simple solution.

If anyone would like me to repair their broken pulley wheel part of their regulators, as long as the motor works and the cables are not broken, contact me and we can work something out.

Dre
 

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the cost

Dre said:


Notice on first image how the pulley wheel is mangled and the cable casing restraint is also damaged.
On the second picture you'll see the replacement metal pulley wheel and the cable casing restraint has been removed and replaced with a simple solution.

If anyone would like me to repair their broken pulley wheel part of their regulators, as long as the motor works and the cables are not broken, contact me and we can work something out.

Dre
I HAVE A 2000 RL JUST GOT IT ,AND THE REAR WINDOW STOP GOING ALL THE WAY UP, GOING TO TRY THE FIX WITH THE TIES. BUT I WOULD LIKE TO HAVE THE REGULATOR REPAIRED.

SPIRIT
 

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terrible design

I have a 1996 RL and I'm in the process of repairing my window regulator. I thought I would search the internet to see if anyone else has had this problem, and alas - I'm not the only one!
Mine looked just like the picture from "Dre." How could Acura have such a complex system, and then screw it up with a cheap plastic pulley? Anyway, it looks like "Dre" and I had the same idea. I used a pulley from a screen door guide kit that I found at Lowe's for a few bucks. I can't tell exactly what he did with the cable restraint, but I was able to use J.B. Weld to attach it back to the slide. Either way, the point is this: Paying $250 +/- for a new motor & regulator is crazy!
 

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Dre said:


Notice on first image how the pulley wheel is mangled and the cable casing restraint is also damaged.
On the second picture you'll see the replacement metal pulley wheel and the cable casing restraint has been removed and replaced with a simple solution.

If anyone would like me to repair their broken pulley wheel part of their regulators, as long as the motor works and the cables are not broken, contact me and we can work something out.

Dre
Hey Dre, I was wondering if you can give a detail instructions on fixing the pulley system and what size pulley to use.

662 352 9720 if you can give me a call i really need the window fix thanks in advance.
 

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Reinstalling regulator cable

Dear Dre,
We had the same idea to replace the pulley (everything else is working). However, when we put the new pulley and everything back together we can not get the cable back into track. No matter what we do, it doesn't seem to be long enough. Any ideas??? Thanks!



Notice on first image how the pulley wheel is mangled and the cable casing restraint is also damaged.
On the second picture you'll see the replacement metal pulley wheel and the cable casing restraint has been removed and replaced with a simple solution.

If anyone would like me to repair their broken pulley wheel part of their regulators, as long as the motor works and the cables are not broken, contact me and we can work something out.

Dre
 

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I just finished refurbishing both of my rear regulators with metal wheels and fixing the cable restraint. I'll try to summarize what I did.

1) Make sure your window is rolled down.
2) remove door panel by removing the two screws behind the door handle, one screw below the arm rest, and one screw through the rubber bumper. Then gently pull on the panel until the clips release. After all clips are released unhook all electrical connections and push up on the panel to clear the lock knob. Then unhook the door handle cable from the panel.
3)Using a utility knife cut through the vapor barrier on the inside of the white glue. This glue is really sticky and strechy and I found pulling the barrier off just made a huge mess.
4) Reach inside the door and try to release the clips holding any wires that are in the way.
5) locate and remove the 7 10mm bolts holding the regulator assembly in the door, and disconect the regulator from the wire harness (middle upper area of the door).
6) remove the two 10mm bolts holding the window to the regulator assembly (there are two access holes that line up if your window is down all the way)and push the window up so that you can remove the regulator.

With the regulator out of the window you will notice that either the cable restraint is broken or both the restraint and the wheel is broken. In my case I fixed one of the regulators before it stopped working. What I found is that the cable restraint is the problem with our regulators, not the wheel. The restraint breaks and then rides on the wheel until the wheel eventually gives way causing total failure.

In order to fix the regulator you will need:
a drill with various bits
a 1.25" brass wheel from a sliding door repair kit
some SS picture wire or something similar
10mm bolt and nut
dremel tool or grinder of sorts

To refurbish the regulator:

1) Move the cable on the broken side out of the way.
2) drill out the back of the rivet that is holding the wheel in place and remove.
3) expand the hole where the rivet was so that the 10mm bolt can pass through.
4) Using the 10mm bolt fasten the new brass wheel through the rivet hole and secure with the 10mm nut.
5) verify that the wheel can spin freely
6) cut off any excess bolt length on the back side and grind down the head of the bolt till it is about 1-1.5mm thick (need to do this so that the sliding piece can clear the bolt).
7) drill two small holes (3/32 ish) one on the right and one on the left of the slot where the cable restraint is supposed to be.
8)run the cable over the wheel and place the restraint back where it should be.
9) run a length of picture wire through both holes and proceed to twist the wire down with pliers so that the wire now holds the cable restraint in place. Do this a couple of times to be sure (zip ties will not work. They will wear through in no time).
10) hook the motor up to a 12v source and run it back and forth a couple of times to make sure everything works fine.
11) reinstall everything in the door and use packing tape to tape the vapor barrier back in place (yes you need to do this). Reinstall the door panel and test the window.

Total cost $10 and one hour of your time.

If your cables are mangled or stuck inside the motor it is possible to remove the steel cover from the motor to expose the cable reel. Pry up on the reel to remove it so that you can straighten the cables and then rewind them. This is a little more difficult and it can be quite hard to get the cables wound right and still have enough play to get the cable ends back in their place but it is doable.

Have fun. I will try to post some pics of my completed regulator later.

Steven
 

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acura window regulator repair

Dear Dre,
We had the same idea to replace the pulley (everything else is working). However, when we put the new pulley and everything back together we can not get the cable back into track. No matter what we do, it doesn't seem to be long enough. Any ideas??? Thanks!
I also am trying to repair the window regulator on a 96 RL. All is well, except I don't seem to have enough cable free to run the course to attach the ends. Any way to get more cable out of the casing? thank you
 

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Hi, guys, I had the same problem. My left rear door's wind glass can not roll up so I used a paperboard and tape to "fix" it. The workshops I asked asked for $600 for a fix. So I kept it that way for almost 8 months. Last weekend I found this website and found Dre's post. Today I did the same thing as Dre did. I took my regulator out and fix the glass with a zip tie. My regulator is fine but just the the plastic wheel is broken, so I plan to fix the regulator as Dre had done too. I will post again once that is done. So, guys, a tiny plastic wheel will cost us $600 if we dare not try to DIY.
Thanks for sharing this great piece of information. It helped me a lot.
 
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