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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If the switch (on/off) on the lower part of the master switch fell off all you need to do is stuff some tin foil in it and it will complete the circuit and all the windows will work again. Sounds crazy but it is true!

Here is mine...


That is stuffed with tin foil inside with the switch removed and covered with a piece or cardboard with black tape on it for a nicer look!

Here is how you do it...

(1) Remove the on/off switch unless it already fell off like mine.

(2) Stuff tin foil in tightly where the below graphic shows.


(3) Dress up as appropriate, the foil needs to be tight in there and could come loose occasionaly so don't over do it too much.

I used a metal bracket to pressure the foil in and it hasn't come undone in about 8 months.

-Ben
 

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Window switch

That is a good idea.
I just picked up one from ebay, and I am going to try and change it this weekend. Does anyone know where I can go and find directions on how to remove the door an replace the switch.
Also, I am going to need to remove the old wood trim and put on the new master switch. Does anyone know how to remove it?
 

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Ben - After my skirt "helped" me lexol the door panels... she tells me to close my eyes and put out my hand. Well, I feel this little plastic piece in my hand. She~ite if that piece was the ON/OFF switch.

I want to thank you for posting your fix and compliment you on it as well (aesthetically). Can you phuleeze describe your "bracket" you used to hold the foil in - and also is the bracket what I see in your pic

http://www.uwec.edu/Student/pgd/ben/legend/masterswitch.jpg

cause it looks like film covering the hole or at bare minimum, what ever is covering the hole appears flush with the trim. I just want to do as good of a job as you did.

KNLNGUS
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok

What you see is a piece of cardboard with black electrical tappe on it. Under that my "bracket" is a piece of metal that I bent like this:

_____
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The take both short sides and bend them in to hold on to the inner button holder. Basically all the bracket does is continue to pressure the foil in, it can be done any way you can think of. You could glue it but sometimes the foil may come loose and glue woudl make it harder to fix if that happened.

-Ben
 

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If my windows arent working at all except the drivers and the mechanic said I need a new master switch, would this be a decent thing to try just in case it is just a loose connection in the "on/off" switch?
 

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window master switch problem

I just bought a legend and noticed that only the F/D window worked but no others. So i figured it was a bad switch. I took of the panel and armrest and pulled out the switch. Checked all the switches for continuity thanks to my 15.00 haynes manual all tested fine including the child-safety switch. I then tested the motor of my F/P window and it worked and rolled up. So i knew it was definitely a bad wire. I presumed a bad ground maybe. I then took the black wire (ground) that is the brown connector that plugs into the switch and grounded to the door and voila everything worked. I was going to trace the wire to underneath the dash and fix the ground but i ended up scraping some paint and grounding it to the drivers side door.

Hope this helps anyone. If you have any questions email me here: [email protected]
 

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I think what you are referring to is different than what the original thread speaks about.

The folks earlier in this thread had a problem with the auto-down feature on the master window switch. In plain English, it wasn't going down with one-touch, but going down like any other window (i.e. you hold it until it goes down to the determined location of your choice). So, determined members found a quick, easy, and temporary way to fix the overly expensive and hard-to-find in good shape option of replacing the entire switch module.

What you describe sounds like a general issue with the switches, not specifically the auto-down feature. Thanks for the advice anyways, I'm sure it'll help others that are suffering the same problems.
 

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asianlegend said:
I think what you are referring to is different than what the original thread speaks about.

The folks earlier in this thread had a problem with the auto-down feature on the master window switch. In plain English, it wasn't going down with one-touch, but going down like any other window (i.e. you hold it until it goes down to the determined location of your choice). So, determined members found a quick, easy, and temporary way to fix the overly expensive and hard-to-find in good shape option of replacing the entire switch module.

What you describe sounds like a general issue with the switches, not specifically the auto-down feature. Thanks for the advice anyways, I'm sure it'll help others that are suffering the same problems.
acualy, its not the one-touch repair. its the child safty switch,preventing other windows beside the drives to 'lock'
i wonder if theres a repair for the one touch...
 

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smartjay28 said:
acualy, its not the one-touch repair. its the child safty switch,preventing other windows beside the drives to 'lock'
i wonder if theres a repair for the one touch...
I stand corrected. Thanks. But, it sure sounded like the auto-down fix, I could've sworn I saw one just like this one mentioned here. Oh well, it's been a long time since I've had one ... oh well! :(
 

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Master Window Switch

Question...with the Master Window Switch my driver side (Auto) is working great the other three switches/windows is not.

If I understand you correctly... the ON/OFF switch is the common switch to the other switches/windows and that is where the aluminum foil is to be placed or do I have a different problem from the one you are describing.

Please advise.

r/gco
 

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Your tin foil fix is easier than mine....since you don't have to remove the door panel which is kind of a pain.

I removed the door panel and switch and soldered a jumper wire between the contacts. I had to grind down the edges to the on/off switch receptacle with a Dremel tool to be able to do the soldering.

After I reinstalled the switch and door panel. I covered the hole with a piece of sticky backed Velcro...the soft side....looks fine...a little quicker/easier fix than your little frame, cardboard and tape
 

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OK, i'm not sure if its the motor, or windo it self. But the F/D and the F/P windows are moving at a very very slow motion when i'm putting it up or down.

One thing i noticed, when ever i spray water on the windows for about 2 minutes or so, ( like washing my car ), and i tried putting the windows up or sown, it'd mov'd fast. So if you could help me with this it'd be great. I'll try to post pictures of my car windows soon.


Also another problem i'm having is the R/D side window. It'll go down, but wont go back up. IF i'm lucky, it'll go up. But when it did go up, i never put it down, because it wont go back up. SO i'm not sure if its the window motor, the switch or bad connections.

Thanks again!
 

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2 Summers Gone...

without my fluckin windows working other than the drivers side and the sun roof...my friends couldn't stand riding with me...who knew it would only take about a minute to resolve...i am far from mechanical...i love these simple solutions...owner of the pearly white: thanks.
 

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KNLNGUS said:
Ben - After my skirt "helped" me lexol the door panels... she tells me to close my eyes and put out my hand. Well, I feel this little plastic piece in my hand. She~ite if that piece was the ON/OFF switch.

I want to thank you for posting your fix and compliment you on it as well (aesthetically). Can you phuleeze describe your "bracket" you used to hold the foil in - and also is the bracket what I see in your pic

http://www.uwec.edu/Student/pgd/ben/legend/masterswitch.jpg

cause it looks like film covering the hole or at bare minimum, what ever is covering the hole appears flush with the trim. I just want to do as good of a job as you did.

KNLNGUS
All you are basically doing is jumping the two connecting points of the switch. That is what the foil is doing. You can also just use a normal fuse, like the fuses used in the fuse box right by your feet. Worked for me and did not have to make a braket. Just use one with a high amp rating to be on the safe side. It'll take a little playing around with to make contact but once you have it done right you should be ok. It's so easy to do that if it ever losens up it is hardly any work to do it over again.
 
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