your window motor is about to bite the dust. Your problems are common symptoms.
Windows!?!?!?
ive gotta a problem with all my windows except the driver, the back windows have a tendancy to get the stuck, i will roll them down then they wont go back up, they will keep going down, but not up, sometimes they get stuck for an hour or 2, but sometimes its a few weeks and then it works again, what would be causiong this, it has happened on both my rear windows, also my front passenger window only rolls down with the master swicth, not the passenger one, but it will go up with the passenger switch what would be wrong with that one? some1 please let me know, because its a reall annoying problem, thanks
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hey i have the same problem someone told me to put tin foil in the ON OFF button on the master switch. check out the thread i put it yesterday "help please"
like my mans said...motor is about to be ghost. not a big deal though.
One if my windows bite the dust already. Are the motors expesive?
if you are sure, that your power window motors seems to be OK, (you can figure it out) then it could be possible, that you have an electrical problem !
Sounds like you have a technical problem with you Power master switch. Should you need to open the rear of the switch unit here are some tips...
The main circuit board is held into place by a cross-head self tapping screw. The switches are sealed units except for the auto switch. To gain access to this, there is a small cross-head screw holding a small circuit board in place.
Be VERY VERY CAREFUL by removing the auto-switch board. It has some locating points. It is very easy to break the board. This also happend to me, as I tried to repair it. Should the copper tracks be damaged, you can make another board without too much problem (I have heared this, but never tried). There is a white plastic body about 6mm wide that holds a 3 prong copper connector. This may require gentle bending back into shape, and may require cleaning. I have found out that cleaning switch surrounds with polish is not a good idea.
Hope this helps (good luck)
Mike / Cologne (Germany)
Sounds like you have a technical problem with you Power master switch. Should you need to open the rear of the switch unit here are some tips...
The main circuit board is held into place by a cross-head self tapping screw. The switches are sealed units except for the auto switch. To gain access to this, there is a small cross-head screw holding a small circuit board in place.
Be VERY VERY CAREFUL by removing the auto-switch board. It has some locating points. It is very easy to break the board. This also happend to me, as I tried to repair it. Should the copper tracks be damaged, you can make another board without too much problem (I have heared this, but never tried). There is a white plastic body about 6mm wide that holds a 3 prong copper connector. This may require gentle bending back into shape, and may require cleaning. I have found out that cleaning switch surrounds with polish is not a good idea.
Hope this helps (good luck)
Mike / Cologne (Germany)
windows
well i tried that foil trick , but it didnt work, i'm just wondering if my master is bad why would my passgener window work????????
well i tried that foil trick , but it didnt work, i'm just wondering if my master is bad why would my passgener window work????????
ALWAYS KEEP SILICONE LUBRICANT IN WINDOWS MAKES YOUR RUBBER SEALS LAST LONGER AND MOTORS WORK LESS.... YOU CAN BUY AEROSAL SILICONE LUBE AT WALMART FOR LIKE $3
The rear and passenger switches are all wired to the master switch, if the correct connection is not found the others will not work ( I realized this as I was working on replacing some windows, I lowered a rear window and days later when I went to put the window back I had removed the master switch and I couldn't get the window to go back up. I was puzzled and scratched my head for quite a few minutes till I realized that I still had the master switch off, put it back in and the window went right back up!). However, if you are able to move them down but not up then I would think that the problem is in the wiring or motor of the specific window.
As others have noted it could be the motor starting to go, since the motor runs in two directions running a window down is easier than running it up which normally means the up direction gives out first. The non-master switches are pretty easy to test if you want to do that first.
As others have noted it could be the motor starting to go, since the motor runs in two directions running a window down is easier than running it up which normally means the up direction gives out first. The non-master switches are pretty easy to test if you want to do that first.
that worked for me.mYbabYLeGend said:hey i have the same problem someone told me to put tin foil in the ON OFF button on the master switch. check out the thread i put it yesterday "help please"
I'm new to this site. How do I try the foil trick on the window switches of my 1991 Legend? Thanksjchery74 said:well i tried that foil trick , but it didnt work, i'm just wondering if my master is bad why would my passgener window work????????
I'm new to the site. How do I try the foil trick on my 1991 Legend?
try thisJwaters said:I'm new to the site. How do I try the foil trick on my 1991 Legend?
http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=87961&highlight=foil
Is Silicone best for window seals?
My driver's window motor is starting to go. It seemed to stick before opening, so I'm sure this was not good for the motor. Anyone else know if Silicone is the best for your window seals? Will it protect the rubber or make it wear out faster?David937 said:ALWAYS KEEP SILICONE LUBRICANT IN WINDOWS MAKES YOUR RUBBER SEALS LAST LONGER AND MOTORS WORK LESS.... YOU CAN BUY AEROSAL SILICONE LUBE AT WALMART FOR LIKE $3
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