ok i dont make a whole lot of money and what not so keep a small budget in mind i only work part time because of high school...but my engine is BONE stock no aftermarket stuff where should i start yall think? and how much will it cost me. thx
yalls opinion of what i should do with my engine
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Hey cory aint nothing wrong with bone stock, i find the car runs better stock, especially engine wise. thats just my opinion. i have dual exhaust on mine, and i'm buying the stock muffler, to quiet the humming.
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The Legend's engine will benefit from the basic upgrades just like any other engine. If you want cheap performace, there are a few things you can do. First off, an intake is probably the most basic mod you can do, and it can also be relatively inexpensive. There are a few short-rams on the market, and any of them can probably be picked up for under $200. If you really want to make power, you can go with a CAI, but it will have to be custom. Th easiest thing to do wouold be to buy a cheapo short-ram off of ebay, buy and attach a 90 degree exhaust elbow from your local auto parts store, and slap a K&N filter to it. You can build a CAI for about $100. The next mod after an intake is typically an exhaust, seeing as these two go hand in hand. If you don't have the $$ for a remus or a stromung, just build your own. Any good muffler shop can weld up a custom exhaust system for a few hundred dollars. If you don't have the cash for it all at once, build it piece by piece. Buy a magnaflow muffler on ebay for about $125 and get it welded on. When you get some more cash, buy a hi-flow cat and get that installed. Finally, if you still feel the need, upgrade your B-pipe to 2.5". These are the 2 most basic mods you can make for relatively little money. You can also make your own grounding kit for about $15-$20, or install an underdrive pulley for more power. Either way, I'd start with the intake and go from there. Best of luck.
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Just get a resonator installed. Keep the look and performance, lose the humming.maracura91 said:
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Wondering why Acura manufacture does not make cars based on those modifications if those really work. I believe those mods work more or less. However, they get to have some drawbacks, otherwise the manufactures should have already done those on their cars to improve the performance and gas mileage.
First, I don't think it's the cost that stops the manufactures. For example, those intake kits are not expensive. If the intake kits really work and their benefits outweight their drawbacks, Acura should have purchased the parts from (say, K&N), put Acura/Honda logo on them, and use them instead on their cars.
What are the drawbacks of the aftermarket intake kits? reduced low RPM performance? low mileage?
First, I don't think it's the cost that stops the manufactures. For example, those intake kits are not expensive. If the intake kits really work and their benefits outweight their drawbacks, Acura should have purchased the parts from (say, K&N), put Acura/Honda logo on them, and use them instead on their cars.
What are the drawbacks of the aftermarket intake kits? reduced low RPM performance? low mileage?
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Cory23, you have a very well designed car. In order to get even a minor increase (20-30%) in power across the RPM band, you are looking at a few thousand dollars. A good cold air intake is cheap and will give you a couple HP, but that's about it.
95legend_user asks the right questions. The cheaper "upgrades" have their tradeoffs- more noise, lower MPG, gain at certain RPMs and loss at others, etc.
A team of engineers designed this car for optimum use under all weather conditions within the limits of the government emission standards and it performs with aplomb.
So people having nothing whatsoever to do with the original design and could not have been hired to do so due to their lack of experience come along offering you an "upgrade" or "improved performance".
I'll let you figure the rest.
If you are looking for fun, there are better returns. I have no idea what you are into, of course. How's about a V8 sandrail?
95legend_user asks the right questions. The cheaper "upgrades" have their tradeoffs- more noise, lower MPG, gain at certain RPMs and loss at others, etc.
A team of engineers designed this car for optimum use under all weather conditions within the limits of the government emission standards and it performs with aplomb.
So people having nothing whatsoever to do with the original design and could not have been hired to do so due to their lack of experience come along offering you an "upgrade" or "improved performance".
I'll let you figure the rest.
If you are looking for fun, there are better returns. I have no idea what you are into, of course. How's about a V8 sandrail?
well i just want my engine to run at its best im up to 153k now and i think i want to have it completely dissasembled and clean and all and maybe send some parts in for chroming or poweder coating just to give the whole engine bay and really nice and clean looking re-do all the wiring and plugs and what not how much do you think that would run me?
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There are several reasons that OEM parts are usually not designed for optimal performance in mind. first off, stock intakes are designed with resonators and multiple chambers in order to reduce noise as much as possible, which in turn, reduces airflow and power. Aftermarket intakes create a smooth path for airflow which creates power, but creates alot of engine noise. Like G Rahn said, they are also designed to work in all weather conditions, and not be at risk for hydrolocking when in heavy downpours. Stock exhaust are designed with these same principles in mind, along with meeting strict emissions standards. Stock ECU's are usually calibrated with gas mileage and reliability in mind, rather than huge power, which eats more fuel. Most car's powertrains are largely untapped resources for power, but are designed with efficiency in mind. This is why there is such a huge market for aftermarket parts, for those of us who want better than "stock" performance from our rides, usually at the expense of noise and gas mileage.
Back to Cory23's question. IMO, disassembling the entire engine for cleaning is unnecessary and a waste of time and energy. If it will give you piece of mind, get a bottle of GM top engine cleaner or Seafoam. this will clean all of the gunk out of your fuel system, injectors, valves, intake ports, etc. As far as engine detail goes, powdercoating and chroming can be expensive and time consuming. Also, most of what can be seen of our engines is plastic. It's not like an old small black where you could chrome the valve covers, carb, water pump, etc. Do what most members on the forum do...buy a can of engine paint from any auto parts store and paint the various parts of your engine to your specs. Also, there are no spark plug wires to replace on our cars. We have individual coils for each cylilnder, and unless one of your coils is bad, no sense in changing it. Changing out the plugs may be a good idea, seeing as you don't really know how old they are. Im sure that there's a tune-up DIY floating around here soomewhere. Hope this helps. Keep us posted.
Back to Cory23's question. IMO, disassembling the entire engine for cleaning is unnecessary and a waste of time and energy. If it will give you piece of mind, get a bottle of GM top engine cleaner or Seafoam. this will clean all of the gunk out of your fuel system, injectors, valves, intake ports, etc. As far as engine detail goes, powdercoating and chroming can be expensive and time consuming. Also, most of what can be seen of our engines is plastic. It's not like an old small black where you could chrome the valve covers, carb, water pump, etc. Do what most members on the forum do...buy a can of engine paint from any auto parts store and paint the various parts of your engine to your specs. Also, there are no spark plug wires to replace on our cars. We have individual coils for each cylilnder, and unless one of your coils is bad, no sense in changing it. Changing out the plugs may be a good idea, seeing as you don't really know how old they are. Im sure that there's a tune-up DIY floating around here soomewhere. Hope this helps. Keep us posted.
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I think you can mod a Legend and still be tasteful. I never consider myself a ricer. If you sell it to mod a civic, then you will be a ricer, and you'll look like every other 16 year old kid on the road.LeRoy said:
You mean there are 16 year olds that mod their cars tastefully?SuperCoupe93 said:
I certainly agree that you can mod a LEGEND tastefully - there are many done very well on this board. But in my opinion, putting a cone filter intake or a bumblebee muffler on a 35k luxury car is NOT tasteful. As said earlier, you'll need lots of money to performance modify these cars properly and I don't believe that's what Cory was looking for.
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I agree with that, but putting an intake and exhaust on your car are just basic performance mods, regardless of the car. I have a CAI and an exhaust, as well as many other members on this forum, and i believe that it's far from being "rice".
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Bud that engine is just gettin warmed up. I have had two Legends and will soon be looking to get my third.Cory23 said:
My first Legend was a 92. It had 268k miles and still ran strong when I sold it. My second Legend was a 91 and had 253k miles when she was traded in on the CL(again, still ran good). The CL just rolled over 100k and all I did when it happend was yawn. Now I find myself missing my Legends and I have decided after I move to FL I will be looking to get a new Legend soon after.
153k is nothing to these engines.
Go for a cold air intake first, theres some REAL cheap ones on ebay, but i dont recommend them. Go for a Dragon cold air, they have a good one out there. If you want to, you can go for an ebay cold air, just slap a K&N on it.
Exhaust is a bit more pricey. Remus is the one most prefer, but good luck finding one as they arent easy to find or cheap to buy. 5Zigen has a Legend Specific exhaust setup, I plan on buying it for my next Legend. Greddy also makes a good exhaust system.
After that, go for a Bayou Stage II chip for the ECU. Good luck finding one as theyre rare and the ones who do have them dont usually want to give them up, especially not for a cheap price.
Venom has some Super Flow Fuel Injectors, but be prepaired to pay the price. They run about $360.
Venom also makes a Hi Performance Fuel Pump for the Legend. Also kinda pricey, but hey, if you have $170 to blow on a fuel pump, thats the one for you.
If you plan on doing NOS(not recommended) Dont do anything over a 75 shot unless you really plan on forkin out some serious cash. To do that youre looking at a whole lot of custom parts.(atleast I dont think they make Forged Aluminum Pistons and Heads for the Legend)
After that, Go for looks, keep it classy. Drop it on some Konis and Coilovers. Get some larger rims*Watch the offset and bolt pattern* If I remember correctly, its a 5X114.3 bolt pattern and +45 offset(i may be wrong, its been a while since i have had my Legend) 17"/18" are more for performance and speed because you can get a larger sidewall incase of those unsuspected bumps. If you go for 19s, youre going more for looks than anything, the smaller sidewall doesnt give you as much air between the road and your rims. So go easy on them. Oh... and FOR THE LOVE OF GOD DONT DO 20s... youre only lookin to get flamed unless you have somehow found a way to make them look good.(few have succeeded in that)
Also, with larger diameter rims be prepaired to get some cambering kits so you dont screw up your tires. And be aware that your Speedometer will not be accurate due to the larger diameter. I forget the ratio, anyone wanna help me out on that one?
Thats what I plan on doing with my next Legend(minus the NOS anyway)
Good luck, hope that helps.
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Camber kits are if you lower the car more than 1.5"Cory23 said:
And, do yourself a favor....get the LS/GS rims or some 18".
17s, IMO, look small. Heck, 18s look small after a while
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