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Old 04-26-08, 09:49 PM   #1 (permalink)
Insert key, crank, BHG.
Pinyix's Avatar
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 4,377

Car 1: '92 LS "December"
Car 2: 6MT Canterbury Coupe

Cluster/Speedo Replacement DIY

Please read through this entire DIY before beginning.

This DIY will cover the nuts and bolts removing and replacing your cluster and swapping gauges between clusters. It may also be useful for installing glow gauges but that won't specifically be covered here. For those of you upgrading gauges, I encourage you to swap them out into your original cluster since you then won't have to worry about a different odometer mileage, the possibility of burnt out lights, the number of doors on the indicator(coupes have two door indicators and sedans four) or the presence or lack of the automatic light tree. Also, I'm not certain if this car has its speed calibrated in the cluster or else ware but I can say with GPS certainty that my speed is 100% accurate using the original cluster base. With that out of the way,

Heres what you'll need:
Small Flat Head Screwdriver
Large Phillips Head Screwdriver

This will take about an hour.

First we're going to remove the panel under the steering wheel. First get your small flat head screw driver under this panel in the slit and gently pry it out.

When reinstalling this screw, don't tighten too hard as you're screwing into a plastic tab.

Now remove the screw as pictured below and place the panel you just removed half way back so not to get in the way.

Now remove the screw at the back right of the panel then the screw behind the hood release:

The panel is now hanging on by a clip behind the ignition. Its a little tough to get off but with a bit of muscle pulling towards you it will pop right off. To better understand how to pry, here are pictures of how its situated:

Now we need to do what we took that panel off to get to: remove the two screws securing the cluster bezel. Mine are technically not present as pictured as they are not needed to keep the bezel in place but their screw holes are circled in red in the below two pictures:

This ignition side screw can be a bit difficult to find but with a flashlight, you'll find its the only phillips head screw up there to be removed.

Now you're going to want to telescope your steering wheel all the way towards you. This should be self-explanitory, but I have a photo of it and I went through the trouble of marking it, so heres how you do it if you're genuinely lost(hope I don't confuse people with them new fangled electronic tilt/telescoping wheels):

You can now remove the cluster bezel. There are two small clips holding the top in place so pull right at the top until they pop out then pull the bezel straight out. Be sure to remove the two connectors on the right and one on the left before fully yanking the bezel out of the way.

Now we can remove the four screws securing the cluster, two on each side. Be careful not to drop the screws into the cavity:

Now before we yank the cluster out, we have to remove four harnesses from the cluster. Three on top, one on bottom. Heres the bottom:

Two on the top right:

And one on the top left:

The to connectors can be a bit tricky so take your time. Your small flat head screw driver may be helpful in getting at the releases and prying the harnesses out. Remember: Patience.

From now on, there is no reason to muscle anything. Tip the cluster all the way forward and gently wiggle it out. Be mindful of the trip reset button and the clear plastic clips on the bottom.

And thats it. You can slide it out to the left or right. On to disassembling the cluster. First we need to pull the clear plastic off the top. On the end of the trip reset button, theres a tiny tip. Pull this off. Now remove the light in back with the wire leading to the top of the cluster and then press in these three clips on top and four on bottom:

The top pulls off and now you can pull the face plate off:

The gauges are fragile so be careful how you situate the cluster while remove and reinstalling the gauges. There are three screws per gauge on the back of the cluster. Red for the temp gauge, blue for the tach, green for the speedo and yellow for the fuel gauge:

Take each set of screws out one at a time holding the gauge with your hand on the other side so it doesn't spill out. Once the screws are out, the gauges lift out no problem and you can put in the gauge of your taste.

Reinstalling all of this is essentially the reverse of the removal. When placing the cluster back in its cavity, place the wire harnesses on top of the cluster so they don't get buried behind everything once its situated. Don't forget to plug in all four wire harnesses either. Don't forget about the one screw that screws into the plastic tab... be gentle. Finally, when you get everything back together, try not to stare at your speedo too intently. Having gone from grandma gauges to modern 140s then again to 160s, I understand how distracting something so involved in the function of your driving can be, but please don't crash your car over it.

.:JDM/EDM Non-Navi DIY:.
.:JDM Navi Console DIY:.
.:Cluster/Speedo Replacement DIY:.

I think OEM is the best look. I just don't happen to think any of the various arrangements of OEM got it exactly right all at once
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