Aight. Since we are back home again here is the DIY for the extended shoulder bolt to use with the ADDCO sway bar:
Since the thread on the OEM shoulder bolt is not long enough to be able to completely tighten the nut onto the ADDCO sway bar, we are going to make a replacement shoulder bolt:
Materials: Two (2) M10-1.5 X 60 hex head bolts / grade 10.9 (or grade 8, if possible), two (2) M10-1.5 Stover lock nuts, two (2) ½" X 5/8" x 1" steel spacers, one (1) ½" x 3' hollow aluminum welding rod, two (2) 3/8" X 1 ¼" fender washers and two (2) 3/8" flat washers. All of these materials can be obtained at your local Lowe's or Home Depot although you may want to source the bolts and Stover lock nuts at a specialty bolt and screw shop.
1. Take one of the ½" X 5/8" X 1" steel spacers and try to slide the ½" X 3' aluminum welding rod down inside of it. If it will not slide in flush with the end of the spacer, tap the end of the spacer with a rubber mallet or regular hammer until the end of the rod is flush with the end of the spacer. Hacksaw the rod off even on the other end of the spacer and file down flush, if necessary.
Congratulations! You have just made the shoulder that is going to slide down the 1.5 X 60 hex head bolt and fit into the bushing. Before you slide the new shoulder onto the bolt, be sure to put one of the 3/8" X 1 ¼" fender washers on first. This is to keep the head of the bolt from pulling through the bushing.
2. Assuming that you have already removed the OEM sway bar & bolt, insert the new shoulder bolt into the bushing, again making sure that the 3/8" X 1" fender washer is on the wheel side of the bushing.
Be sure to take a file, Dremel or die grinder and enlarge/deburr the mounting hole on the ADDCO bar as the replacement bolt is slightly larger than the OEM. Mount the ADDCO bar & its new bushings, slide the new bolt thru the mounting hole, install a 3/8" flat washer & the Stover lock nut and you are almost done.
3. Repeat this process for the other side, make sure ALL of the bolts are properly tightened and/or torqued and you are good to go. Enjoy!
Since the thread on the OEM shoulder bolt is not long enough to be able to completely tighten the nut onto the ADDCO sway bar, we are going to make a replacement shoulder bolt:
Materials: Two (2) M10-1.5 X 60 hex head bolts / grade 10.9 (or grade 8, if possible), two (2) M10-1.5 Stover lock nuts, two (2) ½" X 5/8" x 1" steel spacers, one (1) ½" x 3' hollow aluminum welding rod, two (2) 3/8" X 1 ¼" fender washers and two (2) 3/8" flat washers. All of these materials can be obtained at your local Lowe's or Home Depot although you may want to source the bolts and Stover lock nuts at a specialty bolt and screw shop.
1. Take one of the ½" X 5/8" X 1" steel spacers and try to slide the ½" X 3' aluminum welding rod down inside of it. If it will not slide in flush with the end of the spacer, tap the end of the spacer with a rubber mallet or regular hammer until the end of the rod is flush with the end of the spacer. Hacksaw the rod off even on the other end of the spacer and file down flush, if necessary.
Congratulations! You have just made the shoulder that is going to slide down the 1.5 X 60 hex head bolt and fit into the bushing. Before you slide the new shoulder onto the bolt, be sure to put one of the 3/8" X 1 ¼" fender washers on first. This is to keep the head of the bolt from pulling through the bushing.
2. Assuming that you have already removed the OEM sway bar & bolt, insert the new shoulder bolt into the bushing, again making sure that the 3/8" X 1" fender washer is on the wheel side of the bushing.
Be sure to take a file, Dremel or die grinder and enlarge/deburr the mounting hole on the ADDCO bar as the replacement bolt is slightly larger than the OEM. Mount the ADDCO bar & its new bushings, slide the new bolt thru the mounting hole, install a 3/8" flat washer & the Stover lock nut and you are almost done.
3. Repeat this process for the other side, make sure ALL of the bolts are properly tightened and/or torqued and you are good to go. Enjoy!