DIY: Checking rear ball jointl; changing control arm; installing a rear camber kit! - The Acura Legend & Acura RL Forum
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Old 08-17-06, 11:15 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Talking DIY: Checking rear ball jointl; changing control arm; installing a rear camber kit!

DIY Checking ball joints and replacing rear upper control arm.
Also bonus DIY on installing an Ingalls rear camber kit

Recommended Tools & Equipment
Prepping the car.
How to check Ball Joint in the rear
Changing the Control Arm
Installing a rear camber kit


Side note: sorry my car is dirty, Ive been to busy to take car of her, but will be done this weekend , also I know it is not fully painted yet, and yes I do have 15in coupe wheels, that once were painted partially red, but only in the back.


Recommended Tools.



Safety Stand
Jack
1/2in Drive Breaker Bar
1/2in drive Ratchet
1/2in drive 1in extension
Side cutters
Screw driver
in drive 14mm socket
1/2in drive 17mm socket
1/2in drive 19mm socket (I use a deep)
17mm Combination Wrench (one end closed; one end open)
Auxiliary closed end wrench
Ball peen hammer
Heavy hammer
1/2in drive Torque Wrench (must at least go to 85ft-lbs)
Pickle Fork

Other things that maybe be needed:
Control arm; Ingalls camber kit

Please note, these are the only the tools/parts/equipment I have used to complete this DIY, other tools may also work.

Prepping the car.

First thing is to raise the car in the air, place it under a safety stand and remove the wheel.

1. Using a jack, raise the car into the air.


place the jack at the pinch weld.



2. Raise the car slightly
3. Using a Breaker bar and a 19mm socket, break the lug nuts loose.


4. Raise the car the rest of the way into the air.
5. Then place a jack stand under the under carriage.


I place mine on the inner side of the lower control arm, but not on the control arm, instead on the under carriage
6. Lower the jack so that it weight of the car sits on the jack.
7. Remove the wheel.
Some how I forgot to take a picture of this



Checking the condition of the Rear ball joints.


This can be done with the wheel on or off the car. With the wheel still on the car, and bolted up, it may be easier to spot a slightly warn ball joint. It is still not in poor condition just slightly warn.

1. Follow steps in prep.
2. Using the jack, raise the wheel assembly via the shock (this must be done via the shock, to place the load properly!) to the same position as the Control arms would be at ride height.

(photobucket will not let me rotate the pictures, wtf! Ill fit it soon!)
3. Now place one hand at the top of the rotor/wheel


and the other at the bottom


and wiggle the assembly, the assembly should have NO play, that is not solid with the moment of the rest of the suspension.
4. Check for movement at these main points

lower ball joint

upper ball joint

5. Also inspect ALL the bushings
6. If you feel play and it not any of the ball joint nor bushings, then your bearing needs service.



Changing the Rear upper control arm.


1. Follow steps from prep
2. Loosen and remove the lower shock bolt using a 17mm socket.

3. Move the shock slightly out of the way and loosen and remove the upper control arm, middle bolt, using the 17mm socket.

4. Remove coder pin from the upper ball joint castle nut using the side cutters, and a screw driver.


(again for some reason it wont let me rotate the picture, Ill fix this)


5. Now using a 17mm wrench and the auxiliary wrench


remove the castle nut from the ball joint


6. Once removed grab the ball peen hammer, heavy hammer and a pickle fork

7. Tap the ball joint with the ball peen hammer to loosen the taper, then insert the pickle fork between the hub and the ball joint, placing the flat side UP

8. once inserted hit the pickle fork with the heavy hammer, keep hitting until the ball joint pops up, if it does not pop up and the pickle fork will not go in farther, hit the pickle fork down towards the ground until ball joints pops up.

9. Unbolt the upper control arm from the body.

10. using a 14mm socket unbolt one, and then the other



and remove the bolts


11. Now pull on the rotor toward yourself


while moving the back of the control arm down past the under carriage



12. once you get it past the under carriage the ball joint should pop out completely


13. Now while moving the shock out of the way, pull the control arm off the radius rod

14. Now compare the new and old control arm to make sure they are the same and nothing is missing.




15. Now reinstall the control arm.
slide it onto the radius rod


pull the control arm over the under carriage and insert the ball joint into the hub


16. raise the wheel assembly to slightly ride height to ease the installation of the rear bolts (to help the bolt holes alight better)
then use a punch to align the bolt holes.



17. Now use a punch to fully align the bolt holes, if you are going to be using a camber kit, follow the directions for that to install the camber kit during this process.


18. Once a bolt hole is aligned insert the bolt into the open hole and screw it down part way

19. Remove the punch and insert the remaining bolt and screw it down part way.


20. Screw in and tighten the middle bolt



21. now reinstall the ball joint castle nut, use a new one if supplied, and reinsert the coder pin, use a new one if supplied.

22. Now using a torque wrench, tighten the bolts down to spec
rear bolts 30ft-lbs
middle bolt 62fl-lbs
the castle nut take 36-43fl-lbs but unless you have a very very tiny torque wrench, just tighten as much as they will go, while stilling being able to reinsert the coder pin

23. Reinstall the lower shock bolt. You might have to use the jack to raise the shock closer to the hub, DO NOT FORCE THE WHEEL ASSEBLY DOWN!


after you insert it, use a ball peen hammer to force it farther into the hole

24. once installed tighten the bolt to 76fl-lbs

25. Now perform the steps in checking the ball joint for play to confirm the repair, if all is success full there should be ZERO play.

26. Reinstall Wheel, and toque the lugs to 85ft-lbs and lower the car off the jack stand. Follow reverse procedure from earlier.
BONUS!
Installing a camber kit.



1. Follow the steps in prep
2. using a 14mm, Remove the two bolts holding the control arm to the body

3. Insert washer between body and control arm



do that on both sides.
4. tighten the bolts down to 30fl-lbs

5. follow reverse procedure from prep.

Thats it your done. Have a cigarett; smoke your favorite smoking deviece, drink a beer! do what ever it is you have to do once your all done!

ALEX




Last edited by Alperovich; 08-20-06 at 03:30 PM.
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Old 08-18-06, 02:58 AM   #2 (permalink)
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great DIY!!! this will come in handy in the future.
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Old 08-18-06, 05:48 AM   #3 (permalink)
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wicked DIY!!!! ever get the tie rods one done?
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Old 08-18-06, 06:36 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Owned
wicked DIY!!!! ever get the tie rods one done?
no sorry, i didn't end up having to have to replace them, it ended up being a rear control arm, on the other side, and then followed by this side. however, If i get time, i'll do it, i'm working 40hr weeks plus going to school now, i'll try and make time to do it, i can't promise anything though.



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Old 08-18-06, 01:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Old 08-18-06, 01:15 PM   #6 (permalink)
 
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Great shots man!

Now, I have not done my homework on suspension mods. But for installing the ingalls rear camber kit, all you do is add washers?
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Old 08-18-06, 01:22 PM   #7 (permalink)
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yup for the rear you just add washers, if you get horse shoe type washers u dont even have to get the nut out, just needa loosen it. i found it to be a pain to line up the bolts again.
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Old 08-18-06, 01:23 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
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I'll be heading to Lowes in the future!
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Old 08-18-06, 01:27 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ballistic
Great shots man!

Now, I have not done my homework on suspension mods. But for installing the ingalls rear camber kit, all you do is add washers?
Yo--just like Mertz hinted: hit the hardware store and buy washers.
The Ingalls _rear_ kit is great, but expensive!

k.
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Old 08-18-06, 04:13 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrkeith
Thank you
your welcome, now that i have my ball joints in check, the corners are getting , that and a custom chip thanx to telion

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrkeith
Yo--just like Mertz hinted: hit the hardware store and buy washers.
The Ingalls _rear_ kit is great, but expensive!

k.
yeah, i cost me like $20 for the set (both sides) from tirerack.com; just get high grade washers, or goto napa and buy control arm spacers, it the horse shoe type, they are easier to install, also you don't need new extension bolts but they do help.



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Old 08-18-06, 04:15 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ballistic
Great shots man!

Now, I have not done my homework on suspension mods. But for installing the ingalls rear camber kit, all you do is add washers?
Thanx now if i only had a better camera, i guess it must run the family

ps. sorry for all the not so good shots, i didn't have a tripod to you and it was getting dark



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Old 01-20-07, 04:17 AM   #12 (permalink)
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thanx for the great diy this answered a bunch of question i had
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Old 01-20-07, 04:09 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alperovich View Post
your welcome, now that i have my ball joints in check, the corners are getting , that and a custom chip thanx to telion



yeah, i cost me like $20 for the set (both sides) from tirerack.com; just get high grade washers, or goto napa and buy control arm spacers, it the horse shoe type, they are easier to install, also you don't need new extension bolts but they do help.
Another Great DIY between you and Swift there's no need for a manual haha, Don't know how I missed the compliment on the chip either so a long over due thanks on that too!
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Old 01-27-07, 10:26 PM   #14 (permalink)
mods: yes PLEASE!!!!
 
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is that really whata camber kit is jst a bunch of washers.... wow
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Old 01-27-07, 10:32 PM   #15 (permalink)
 
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just a quick not for those with REALLY stubborn joints...when using the pickle fork and the thing just plain WONT come out....you can rattach the castle nut, screwing it down completey flush to the joint and hammer the shit out of that thing...it will pop loose....I had a chevy truck that I couldnt get that damn thing off to save my life and in sheer frustration I put the castlenut back on (my dad told me to do it and seeing as he was a mech from really back in the day) so I did and a few good whacks and the control arm popped loose and I was soon on my way...which made me happy because I had to be into work pretty soon and it was a 45 minute drive to get there...I was late
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