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Old 02-21-07, 06:28 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Front ADDCO sway bar DIY coming tonight. . .

I am getting ready to go to bed now but I thought I would throw out a prelude and to say this is not a good idea for a late night DIY, and if you do decide to do this A. know that this is a far cry from the ease of the Rear bar and B. You better eat your Wheaties!
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Last edited by Telion; 02-22-07 at 04:38 AM.
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Old 02-22-07, 04:37 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Front ADDCO Sway Bar DIY Install for 2nd Gen Legend Coupe

Ok here we go but as I stated before the front ADDCO sway bar is a different beast in DIYness, and you have better eaten your wheaties I am about to make this sound easier than it is.

Preface: I did not take the time to learn the proper names of many of the parts I am about to refer to. As this is really only relevant if you are replacing, purchasing or referencing something you need to look up. Ok ignorance pled, let’s get down to business!

First here are the tools you will need and desire

-A socket wrench preferably two
-a 17mm, and a 14mm wrench (preferably socket wrenches I now will buy a 17mm, had a 14mm)
-Sockets 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, and 17mm
-adjustable pliers of some sort
-A pry bar of some kind
-A rubber mallet or heavy weight hammer
-A strong power mobile light source (I would not suggest a dinky flashlight but if you must I actually used a portable halogen light in pic was for display purposes only hehe)
-Ramps (used these to remove the protective plastic cover “you can never be too safe lol, ok you don’t need these in hindsight)
-Jack stands
-A jack (two is always better than one)
-A box of Wheaties, don't eat too much though as you will also be eating dirt)
-A whole lot of patience and time lots of time
- An Allen wrench (sorry don't have the correct size, I need to buy metric ones)

Oh yeah the funny elongated needle nose pliers are not needed but I was at Checker picking up a 10mm-1.0 bolt (only place that seems to sell them) for my Koni’s and saw them and thought when in the hell would someone ever need these. Then while checking out I thought to myself "now just because I said that there will come a time I wished I had them" so I got out of line and grabbed um’.

Here is the Plan

1. get your car up on a set of jacks (remember to brace your tires and pull the E-brake.


2. Now it is time to remove some stuff, you will need to remove the protective plate under the car that protects the underside of the engine and tranny. about ten 12mm screws and a couple of plastic screw clips.



3. Next you will need to remove the chassis braces (I don't know the name but they will not cause the engine to fall on you by doing this, thought about that one for a sec.) eight 14mm bolts total **when placing them back in the end do not screw them tight till they are all in place makes life easier**

They are missing in this pic so you can see what it looks like with them removed there’s two (Coolant is not a leak I recently bled my line to get air out, ahh hot air again)


4. Next you will need to remove your brake cable just the one piece on each side mounted to the front side of the wheel well. All you need is enough to move stuff around without damaging it. Now unscrew and remove the upper arm of your drivers and passenger side shock towers (please do not try to skip this, it will be hell) The purpose for this is that there will not be enough rook to remove the bars knuckle joints if you do not remove them besides it is four 17mm bolts and hours of less frustration trust me)
****DO NOT REMOVE THE BOLT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE SHOCK MOUNT****
this is under high pressure and well that could be ugly see my front shock removal if you are not sure which bolts I am referring to. Another good thing to do unless you like massaging CV axle balls back into place would be to tie your shock tower arm to the shock to keep it from falling and pulling the CV axle out of its joint.


5. Now you are ready to begin removing the original bar. Unscrew the knuckle joints (I think these were 17mm. First make a mental note of how the bar looks and sits, I went a step further and once it was out positioned the bar the same way the new one was going to go in.

This shows where it is bolted to the lower suspension arm




I know this pic is blurry but it illustrates the allen wrench in the bolt



Now I used my socket wrench to loosen them till the bolt started to turn too. Then I took a 17mm wrench and slowly unbolted it I really really wish I had a 17mm socket ratchet at this moment. (you may need to tap them loose). reposition the shock tower arm to move the axles out of the way of the knuckle joint and tap or pull them out.

6. Now it is time to remove the bar from its rubber supports (be careful you will be re-using these)
Notice the notch and how it lines up.

unscrew the bracket, two 12mm bolts on each side. Then pull the bar from the bracket. now you can take the rubber part off and set them aside. Ok here comes the tricky part, I fought for hours trying to do this without removing the chassis support and/or the passenger side tires to get the bar out (it cannot be done). Remove your passenger side tire and you will be sliding the bar out along side the shock (forgot whether it was in front or behind, I think behind between the shock and wheel well, I was upset at this point so I forget)

7. Now that that is out you can sigh in relief and hopefully this was much easier for you.

8. Leaving the plastic wrapper on, slide the ADDCO bar into place. I think it will be easiest to place the knuckle joints onto the bar before sliding them in to the suspension arms. Do one side then the other, putting the bolt on just tight enough to not fall off, then do the other side. For me this was easier to do after loading the suspension. I used a jack under the rotor and slowly raised the each control arm (rotor) while it was on the jacks.



9. Now it is time to put the bar back in its inner brackets. Pay attention to the placement of the rubber bushings though there is a notch that needs to line up with the metal part of the bracket. If this is not just right life will be hell. You may also want to get one side on and screw it on just enough to hold it in place then use a pair of pliers to squeeze the other part on then once both sides are in place do the same thing to the second bracket. I promise all of this is easier if you do not tighten it down till everything is in place there is little room and less movement under here ie. no play for adjusting if it is tightened.

I used a pry bar to get in back in alignment for proper fitment


10. Now that you have your bar in place it is time to batten down the hatches. Tighten all of your bolts for the bar up don't forget to use your allen wrench for the knuckle joints I admit I did and was wrenching away for nearly a minute before realizing this bolt was not that long haha.

Now you can put your chassis braces back in place I suggest the first bolt be the top passenger side bolt. I didn't do this the first go around nearly stripped it trying to get it in place because the braces are designed to have a little play in them. After all of them are in place tighten them down with your 14mm wrench (again the socket ratchet is beautiful right here).

Ok it is time to put your upper shock tower arms back in. If the suspension is still loaded with a jack unload it slide the arm mounts into the holes and slowly re-load it, this makes life easier too. Then once they are in place you can tap them into the holes with that heavy mallet ( I need a rubber mallet).

Screw them badboys in (This is when I decided I will buy a 17mm ratchet wrench before I do the 3.5 install!)

Now it is time to screw your break lines back into place. and put your front tires on. Oh dear did I ever say to remove these hehe (it was implied) Just goes to show you should read a DIY from beginning to end before starting.

Remember to screw your Fuse box back in because that could be that extra bolt in your pocket. Ok now you can pull the plastic wrapper off the bar. Yeah still shiny.


And all done, take your car off the jacks lowering them down nice and easy, pat yourself on the back and call it a day. You are done and it is time for a test drive.

*note* until your car settles it will sit a little higher than normal.

I hope this saves all who attempt to do this from hours of frustration and the desire to remove the bar with the Carbide blade and a Rotozip as I did at times. ENJOY!
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Last edited by Telion; 02-22-07 at 04:51 AM.
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Old 02-22-07, 04:40 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I am still undecided on feelings toward the perfomance of the car with the bar I will hold my judgement till I have the Koni's on in the front.
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Old 02-22-07, 04:47 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Oh wow, I just noticed this even after having cleaned and polishing my rims I just now saw that it says ACURA in the back side of the spoke . . .odd???

Edit: haha silly me that is the center hubcap to the other car lol duh!
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Old 02-22-07, 05:23 AM   #5 (permalink)
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wow! wicked diy!!!
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Old 02-22-07, 07:57 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Teaches me to operate under the "oh, it can't be that bad" mentality...

That looks like a PITA! haha - oh well, once it's warm, I'll just hijack Dad's garage for a day or so and get it done!

Awesome write up Telion. The community owes you one!
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Old 02-23-07, 12:01 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks guys, and nah just trying to give back as much as I can, the community has given me much much more than I will ever be able to return knowledge wise about my car!
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Old 02-23-07, 12:46 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Marvelous!!! You've inspired me to do this on my own. I plan to do the mod when the weather gets warm. Thanks for the write up and pics.
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Old 02-23-07, 01:02 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Sweet, the way I see it the more we as members attempt to do more of our own work the more we will learn about our cars, the more money we will save on having a mechanic install it, and the less we will have to leave our cars at the mercy of a mechanic in hopes that he is honest! If you have questions or get stuck feel free to PM me!
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Old 03-22-07, 09:57 AM   #10 (permalink)
mods: yes PLEASE!!!!
 
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thank man!
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Old 03-22-07, 12:13 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Great DIY Telion! i know that it takes a lot of time and patience to not only do the work but to also document it and post it. We all really appreciate it.
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Old 06-20-07, 12:12 PM   #12 (permalink)
what!
 
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shouldn't this be in the DIY ?
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Old 10-03-07, 09:11 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Bump I will be using this soon. Can a mod move this the DIY section?
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Old 10-03-07, 09:32 PM   #14 (permalink)
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This install is WAY easier if you (1) have access to a lift so you can (2) drop the RF lower control arm off the car. There are also 2 aluminum braces (bridge beams) that are held on by 4 bolts each that when removed make for a clear path to slide the ADDCO in. My suspension guy and I have done this 3 times now and have gotten it down to going up in the air to installed & back on the ground in 30-45 minutes. Last time, it didn't even have to be realigned.
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Old 05-03-08, 12:49 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I just got my Addco bars. Wow... didn't think was this involved. Very good DIY. Guess I better set a few hours aside to get 'er done.

Steve, move this to DIY section if you can.
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